yottyboy

I wouldn't waste good tar and feathers on him. His Dad was really the one who did the fabulous work and I hoped that he would carry on the family tradition. When they rebuilt the Fords they did an awesome job. Unfortunately the son was just not into being a wrench and decided to go back to school and pretty much pissed the business away. It's hard to find a good machine shop that will even do business with us shadetree mechanics. They want big volume and steady work, not some nimrod off the street with a big hunk of trouble. I think I have found a good one now, so until he does something very bad, I'll stick with Doug. He's old enough to be experienced but young enough that he isn't going to be retiring any time soon.

I'm married to a girl like that. She has bought two of my last three Rovers (as surprise gifts) including the Series 2A 109 Wagon.

Is there an external oil cooler? Possible tube leak in the exchanger if so equiped. Just thinking out loud. No. I did away with the OMC stuff in favor of a straight up raw water cooled engine. I toyed with closed cooling but it's stupid overkill on a trailer boat. Good call though.

Jigger writes: I'd pull the heads off and see what you have. It could be that the gasket never sated correctly. Seeing the person who built he engine went out of business. He might have just thrown th heads on and tighten them down not fallowing th bolt pattern or torque rate. While you have the heads off check to see the surfaces had been planed before instalation. My plan exactly, except I'm going to have Doug at Rockville Ring and Bearing do the inspection. I'm not sure I have enough experience to know what to look for if it's not an obvious head gasket leak. My previous rebuilder, who went out of business, dragged his feet for about two months on the project while giving me excuse after excuse why he needed another day or two. Every time I gave him his extra days he still did nothing for me. I finally told him I was coming to pick it up whether it was done or not and it miraculously came together literally overnight. Red flag the size of Texas, but I had no option but to take it. Certainly he didn't Magnaflux it if it is indeed a cracked block.

A well spent Friday saw your humble author once again pulling a Chevy lump out of his beloved Allmand. I had put it in the water for what i had hoped would be a fairly routine sea trial after the total refit. This engine was of course, completely rebuilt with new crank. pistons, pretty much everything except the block. Zero time on it. Ran it at the dock for ten minutes and found the oil milky and full of water. After a few choice pirate-y type oaths I loaded her up on the trailer knowing it was gonna have to come out. This week will tell me if it is a total loss on this block or it may be something as innocent as a bad head gasket. Let's hope for the latter. I have another block at the machine shop as I write this, which may turn out to be the golden egg at last should the one I just pulled out be a pig in a poke. It never fails that I have to put in an engine into a vehicle(boat) twice. I went through this same deal with the Range Rover last Fall. Got the rebuilt engine in the truck only to find it had a slipped cylinder liner or something. The only thing I'll say is that the engine person who built this dog of a motor is no longer in business, so my only recourse is to pay for another build.

PooF! Gone. Someone with deep pockets must be.

Furuno, Furuno, Furuno.

Well, I think you already have it figured out. You won't find anything on line that's free since the shop manuals are copyrighted material. Maybe someone here has the manual and can scoot you a scan. Otherwise you'll have to fork over the bucks for the repair manual if you need the reassurance that you are going down the right path. If you follow the link I gave you that vendor can hook you up. Solenoids and relays are pretty much the same thing. Relays have the tendency to go south because they are not sealed against moisture like a metal encased solenoid. Cole Hersee even makes a solenoid that is sealed in epoxy. It won't fail due to corrosion. I'd put my bets on that helm switch controller thingamabob. Probably 4-500 clams from Mr. Volvo. Again, I like simple so I'd go with a single switch and use my ears to tell me when the drive reaches the limit of travel. Rotsa ruck.

Clearly there is either a bad solenoid or a bad wire. When my Cobra trim went out (similar to VP) the cost for a new solenoid pack was something like 400-odd dollars. My solution was to buy two new Cole Hersee solenoids at $15 each and rewire them into the pump. Works like great. There should be a red green and blue wire going into the motor. I think red is positive, blue is down negative ground and green is up negative ground. Or maybe it's the other way round, oh well, easy to figure out. Can't tell you what the switch solenoids do. You really only need a dual throw switch that's momentary on-off-momentary on. Those are about ten bucks from Genuinedealz.com. Trim position indicators are ridiculously inaccurate. Look on fleaBay for a Cobra trim pump. It should have the same wiring and fitment. Try this link,it may be what you are looking for. Or here, the complete listing for VP drives.

Way to go Fountain. That's some fine rigging there. Knuckleheads.

The raw water pump on the outdrive should be pulled out and replaced. Just because it looks OK doesn't mean it is OK. It can strip the hub and stop working. Same with the engine's water circulating pump, but even if that were out of whack there should be some water coming out the thermostat housing heading for the exhaust manifold. No water whatsoever means a clogged intake screen, a bad raw water impeller, or a clogged supply hose. If this is a boat you bought used, the PO may have had a impeller go to pieces and never fished all the bits out.

Recycle OLD boats? People aren't even cycling their NEW boats. Plenty of sit-arounds at the marinas these days.

Meh. Underwhelming styling, typical Winne-Boat-o features. Totally forgettable. Twin Volvo EFIs should move it nicely and be trouble free with regular maintenance. OK for a cocktail cruise I guess, not my cuppa.

SAE 30. Napa has it on the shelf. Change it regularly. You don't need anything fancy like synthetic.

Yes I can see that even with four 350s it would be like pinwheels on a Jumbo jet. Really need some serious props like 30 inch Rollas on Arneson drives. Or two large Hamiltons and V16 diesels.

Maybe some day. That thing ain't going anywhere.

It's in that marina at the Trappe side of the Rt 50 bridge over the Choptank. Y'know, the one next door to Composite Yacht ( Hi Martin!) Can't remember the name of the marina, but it's sitting next to the old ferry boat hulk. Can't miss it. When you see the sign for the Choptank Fishing Pier, that's your cue to prepare to turn into the road to the marina. I had to climb up the stern. It's not locked up or anything, you can walk around on it and get inside. It does have a huge foredeck with a cradle for a dinghy and even a crane for the tender. Sporty. And giant outriggers. And a tower. There's only one steering station on the flybridge, so able bodied owners only need apply.

Is this it? Link Here Here's another All Cobra transom assemblies are the same regardless of engine size. They did not change from year to year so you are pretty safe buying any Cobra transom gimbal. Only thing that's different is the gear set inside the upper housing. Everything else is identical.

They should be OK. As you have probably found, there are several options for mufflers out there. They all do the same thing which is to baffle the exhaust flow thereby reducing noise. Cast iron ones should be highly effective. Mufflers also come in rubber, stainless steel, fiberglass, and rotomolded plastic. Just be sure to firmly clamp the hoses with t bolt clamps and use good quality exhaust hose like Shields Flex.

How difficult is it to replace the controls and do I need to worry about buying specific controls for the Volvo engine? Just a matter of unfastening the old and installing the new. I use a separate throttle and shift with a twin arm Teleflex shifter. That's just me. The cables are universal 3300 tfxtreme. So, you can use any shifter and there are cables that will work for them. Also, (stupid question) do I have to remove the old equipment before knowing what length, etc. I need to replace with or is there a way to gauge this before starting the project? In most cases the cables will have their length printed on them somewhere. Whether at the shift end or the other you can use that length as a guide. Cables are sold in one foot increments, so you won't go too wrong by estimating one foot too long.

I went and crawled around on it. What a wreck. Looks like it spent some time under water. Lots of rot in the cabin and upper works. Coachroof is very soft. It does have brackets for quad outboards. The brackets are deeply corroded and pitted. The hull extension that the brackets bolt to is full of water. It has been stripped of everything and the belowdecks areas are rather funky, to say the least. On the plus side, it is a nice big boat that could be rebuilt for a relatively small investment. It's just in a very sad state of affairs. Hate to see such a once regal boat on hard times. Like seeing a Ferrari wrapped around a tree. As for repowering, I looked in the hole below the cockpit and there is room for inboard power. There's a rotted Northern Lights genny in there. Below the weather deck is a huge open area that would have housed the engines were it an inboard. Since it was powered with OBs, the space is empty except for tankage. It's about 15 long, beam width and 5 feet high. It has two heads with showers P and S. Musta been pretty lux in its time.

There's one of these sitting in a yard in Trappe, MD. It's a 50 with what is obviously custom coachwork since I have never seen a Cary 50 with a tower. It looks like it was powered with twin outboards since it has a pair of brackets on the stern. I can't imagine what would power such a hull unless they were God's own outboards. normally the Carys had HUGE engines and Arneson drives. Anyone seen anything else like this? Could be my next project....

Adding a Vortech Marine supercharger will gain you another 70 odd horsepower without replacing the engine. That will allow you to spin a pitchier prop. Same thing with a naturally aspirated big block. If you go with the big block, the advantage is that it gets into it's horsepower band at a much lower RPM. That way you spin the pitchier prop at lower RPM. If you were to supercharge the big block, it will be able to push the largest props you can fit to the B3. If you go with something like the World Products Merlin block, you can get it in sizes in the 800 cubic inch range. Same with Donovan's engines.

DAP Alex Plus.

Here's a text treatment. It took only a few moments in photoshop to do up. If I had a better pic it would be easier to place on the side of the boat. I tried to match the light on the side of the hull.