FishinPole2

I have a complete Raynav 570 Loran C unit with antenna & amplifier. I was wondering if this unit could be of any use to anybody. I know Loran is "dead" but I thought it might be used by a radio type experimentor person. Maybe a HAM RADIO operator can modify it for use somewher, somehow! Any comments would be appreciated. hate to put it in the dumpster! Thanks, Stas (aka FishinPole)

Hi Folks, Thanks for your input. This model VolvoPenat outdrive does not have any solenoids. Through relays, the motor wires are reversed to run the outdrive up or down. There are just two wires connected to the hydralic pump motor. A GRN/WHT and a BLU/WHT. The motor is fully insolated from system ground. Connecting these two wire directly to a battery causes the outdrive to go up or down, depending on voltage polarity. Reverse the battey connection and the outdrive goes the opposite way. By direct connection, I can make the outdrive travel up or down full range and the trim indicator reads correctly. My problem is not with the motor. At the helm there is a three pushbutton switch assembly (UP, DOWN and BEACH) that has 5 wires connecting to a big harness of wires. When it was working properly, the DOWN would cause the outdrive to go down throughout the full range. The UP would control the outdrive through a small, limited range such that the cooling water intake (mounted on the outdrive) was always under water. If you wanted to lift the drive out of the water (to trailer and/or beach the boat) you have to push both the UP and BEACH together to get full up travel. I think the indicator has circuits that control the limited range because there are no limit switches on the outdrive. There are 10 wires going to the indicator. At the helm, these pushbuttons control two relays. These two relays control two other relays which are located at the pump. The wire harness for just the outdrive has 23 wires leaving the helm and running to the indicator and aft to the pump. It would be much easier to troubleshoot if I had a schematic. I was hoping someone could steer me towards some documentation that is detailed. As I said before, the wiring diagram that came with the unit is more of a pictorial, not any real, usable details. I'm hoping that by posting my problem and keeping it alive, I can scare up some info. The pictorial has labels on various wires that are in some kind of Volvo/Penta code. Wires that go through a connector change color which is a real pain to understand. A wire that is WHT can change to BLU/RED when passing through a connector. Again, thanks for your input. I am still feeling hopeful that the right person will read this posting. Regards, Stas, aka FishinPole

Hi Folks, I have a 1993 26 foot Skipjack with a Volvo Penta diesel I/O. Engine AD41B (S/N 2204144967, Dual Prop Drive model DP-D (S/N 3102129961). Trim /tilt started giving me problems. At first unit would not go down but now the unit will not go up. I was able to determine that the motor is okay. If I apply voltage directly to the motor, I can cause the outdrive to go up or down, depending on voltage polarity. Outdrive travels full range and the trim indicator reads correctly. The controls consist of an UP, a DOWN and a BEACH pushbuttons. Indicator is a round display with both LCD and LED's. The LCD indicates trim angle in number from -5 to about +40. The LED's indicate if the trim is set outside the usable range. Indicator is displaying properly. I am looking for a true, readable electrical schematic and possible explanation of how the system is supposed to work. There are 4 relays involved. Two at the controls and two at the hydralic pump. The Volvo Penta manual that came with the unit has a sketch that is more a "pictorial" and thus lacking in detail. Access to the pump/relays is very limited. Hate to spend too much time on my belly in the bildge unless I have an ideal what to look for. Any help with source of schematic/parts would be appreciated. Thanks, Stas, aka FishinPole

Hi Aldo, You may not have a problem with your equipment. I have a RayMarine C120 with DSM300 Digital Sounder Module. I can create the exact display you have pictured if I am running too fast. The transducer emits a sound wave which takes some time to hit the bottom and then travel back up to the boat. If my speed is such that the boat has moved past the receiving "cone" of the transducer, the return signal is missed. Because I usually use auto gain and auto range setting, the system is trying to adjust both in an attempt to display the bottom and depth digits. That's what causes the system to show a series of alternate thickness surface bands, but no bottom and no digits. Of course speed and depth intereact. If I'm in about 20 fathoms and traveling about 14 knots or faster, I get the exact results shown in your photo. If I reduce speed and/or get into shallower water, system displays properly again. There might be another problem/explination. What I am describing is repeatable anytime I choose to do so. Everything is in fine working order, just missing the return signal. Hope this helps you! Regards, Stas aka FishinPole

Hi Bill, I would also suggest you install a second backup antenna as frank1861 mentioned. In all my years of ocean fishing, my only radio problems have been with breaking antennas and/or antenna mounts. I have had more than one stainless steel mount snap in two during rough weather. A good back up system is having two seperate radios / antennas . Regards, Stas aka, FishinPole2

Hi folks, Thought I would add an update.... I cut the 8 pin DIN connector off of the NEMA cord that exits the RAY54. Contrary to what the tech said, it is a 7 conductor sheilded cable. The wires were colored as follows: YEL - GRN - ORG - GRY - BLU - BLK - WHT - SHLD I installed a Bulgin 400 Series Buccaneer connector. This series connector is non-metal and has a secure sealing system. Quick twist and its on or off. I used only the YEL - GRN - SHLD wires. I also cut the 8 pin DIN connector off the NEMA cord supplied with the Ray54. It is a 6 conductor sheilded cable. The wire colors were as follows: YEL - GRN - ORG - GRY - BLU - BLK - SHLD ( no WHT wire here) I installed a mating Bulgin connector on this cable. Again, I used only the YEL - GRN - SHLD wires. Now my Ray54 constantly receives valid GPS data from the C120 / Raystar 125 system. The 8 pin DIN style connectors were very hard to mate and unmate plus they have a metal shell that does not last too long in a saltwater enviroment. Glad I made the change. Regards, Stas, aka FishinPole2

Hello Rich, Thanks, that's all I needed to know. I will cut the cord and change connectors. Since I am registered with Raymarine, I did ask this same question via email about a month ago. All I recieved back is an acknowledgement that they recieved my question. No actual answer. They either don't know the answer or are way too busy to answer email inquiry! Thanks again! Regards, Stas FishinPole2

Hello Rich, Thanks for the reply and info. I pretty much knew what you explained. What I want to do is cut the cord and solder or crimp on a different style connector. I plan to use something like the Switchcraft EN3 series, weathertight connectors. I'm a bit reluctant to cut the cable because the unit comes equipped with a 8 PIN DIN connector. If the cable has other wires besides just the YEL and GRN, I'd like to know before hand. Thanks again, FishinPole2

Hello, I have a Raymarine model RAY54 VHF and would like to change the GPS input connector. The unit comes equipped with a 8 pin DIN attached to a short piece of cable. This style connector is very difficult to connect/disconnect. I always remove my elctronic gear from the boat when not in use. All other connections are simple and easy to engage/disengage except for this DIN. Doest anyone have the pin out (or color code ) info for this radio? Owners manual does not supply any of this type of information. I plan to change the connector. Thanks, Stas, F/V FishinPole