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Outboard rigging experts


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Oh yeah , Is that some of The Crows Art work in your Avatar ?

Hey welder ,this is some of my work ,been doin lots of rays and sailfish .I'll paint anything if it will sell. This black on was for a guys sons 21st birthday.

Back to my engine my 1st question to you guys is do you all think a dealer can handle this job?

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I would think a dealer that handles glass work should be fine tackling this job. That's just an opinion though.

Agreed. It's actually a simple job for any accomplished glass guy. But it needs to be done, on their dime!

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I would think a dealer that handles glass work should be fine tackling this job. That's just an opinion though.

Agreed. It's actually a simple job for any accomplished glass guy. But it needs to be done, on their dime!

Guys, its not the glass work I'm worried about. Not really any glass work to do if I understood them correctly. They plan to pull the motor ,check the existing holes against the template .assuming the upper starboard hole is correct they will then prep the other 3 holes and plug them with pultruded fiberglass rod and bonding adheisive. Now comes the part that worries me . The orig. holes are off by about 3/16" wich means when they drill the new holes they will be drilling mostly on the rod and partially into the transom . If they had the "real" template from the factory and went nice and slow should work out fine but the tech told me there sending out a paper template .He told me he cant guarantee it will be perfect but it will be better . WTF. Also it seems every time I bring my boat in for service I find another nic or scratch in the cowling.

I just want to be clear I do like this dealer ,they have been verry helpful in a very bad situation with this boat "enough of a story to start a new thread about dealer horror stories" .

So ..... let em have at it or insist it go back to the factory ?????

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The factory won't be able to do it any better than the guys at the dealer. The dealer should have a metal template, that paper crap is just that...crap. But I would have them fill the holes with epoxy, or even a mix of resin and chopped strand. But they need to use a metal drill fixture with bushings to guide the drill bit.

Keep in mind that if the drill fixture lined up with the original holes, that would mean your deck is 3/16" higher on the port side than on starboard...and there is only one way to fix that...UNDECK THE BOAT!!! And they really don't want to do that...

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The factory won't be able to do it any better than the guys at the dealer. The dealer should have a metal template, that paper crap is just that...crap. But I would have them fill the holes with epoxy, or even a mix of resin and chopped strand. But they need to use a metal drill fixture with bushings to guide the drill bit.

Keep in mind that if the drill fixture lined up with the original holes, that would mean your deck is 3/16" higher on the port side than on starboard...and there is only one way to fix that...UNDECK THE BOAT!!! And they really don't want to do that...

Thanks 250 I know your background and trust your judgement so I'll let the dealer have a crack at it.

Dave

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The factory won't be able to do it any better than the guys at the dealer. The dealer should have a metal template, that paper crap is just that...crap. But I would have them fill the holes with epoxy, or even a mix of resin and chopped strand. But they need to use a metal drill fixture with bushings to guide the drill bit.

Keep in mind that if the drill fixture lined up with the original holes, that would mean your deck is 3/16" higher on the port side than on starboard...and there is only one way to fix that...UNDECK THE BOAT!!! And they really don't want to do that...

Thanks 250 I know your background and trust your judgement so I'll let the dealer have a crack at it.

Dave

Post the outcome, I am curious to know what happens. :1121_wink:

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I'm late to this party, but I agree with 250. Any decent dealer should be able to handle this, and any decent dealer will have a metal transom drilling template. Engines over about 40 hp have used standard mounting pattern for years.

It was probably caused by a crooked deck cap, but rather than un-deck the boat, you could shim the low side under the template. If it were mine, I'd want the deck fixed too. No excuse for shoddy work like that.

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How does the factory jig mount to the hull? I would think it should be squared up up to the running surface of the hull?Do the mounting holes get drilled after the cap gets joined to the hull? My upper bolts are not visable in the splashwell,there are two access holes in the splash well to access the nuts.

I guess what I'm unclear on is if the cap was put on crooked would that throw off the jig?Now the factory uses robots to drill the holes.

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