Wooden Cored Transon - Would you remove everything from transon and re-seal on a used boat?

[gmack]

Just bought a 215 Kencraft that has a wooden cored transon. Trying to decide if I should remove the tabs, bracket, transducer, etc from the transom so I can make sure everything is sealed and wood is not exposed. Would you go through the trouble? Why/Why not?

Boat is 2002 with only 188 hours and in great shape.

Gary

Edited November 20, 2009 by Gmack

[Cracker Larry]

I would if it were mine. The biggest cause of an early death or major repairs in boats is transom rotting and delaminating. This is almost always caused by improperly installed hardware allowing water to get between the skin and the core. A foam core can get the same delaminations, it's not restricted to wood. Don't believe all the foam marketing buzz. It only takes a little water between the core and skin and hydrostatic pressure will pump that water throughout the lamination, separating the skin from the core. Properly made, a wood transom is every bit as good as foam, or better. Both need all the hardware sealed and I don't trust many people or companies to do it right.

[Chisox]

I would if it were mine. The biggest cause of an early death or major repairs in boats is transom rotting and delaminating. This is almost always caused by improperly installed hardware allowing water to get between the skin and the core. A foam core can get the same delaminations, it's not restricted to wood. Don't believe all the foam marketing buzz. It only takes a little water between the core and skin and hydrostatic pressure will pump that water throughout the lamination, separating the skin from the core. Properly made, a wood transom is every bit as good as foam, or better. Both need all the hardware sealed and I don't trust many people or companies to do it right.

+2!

[gmack]

Thanks guys. What would the procedure be to properly seal the holes? My guess is remove, remove core around hole and back file with thickened resin?

Gary

[Chisox]

Have heard many good things about MarineTex.

[bly]

Thanks guys. What would the procedure be to properly seal the holes? My guess is remove, remove core around hole and back file with thickened resin?

Gary

OB engine bolt holes yes. Normal screw penetration should have ample 5200 on screw and in hole.

[Cracker Larry]

I go a step further, it's nothing but a thing and beats watching TV. Remove the fitting, drill the screw/bolt holes to 1/2" oversized the original size of screw or bolt, and 1/2" deeper than they need to be. Pack the new holes with epoxy thickened with wood flour, or a West System structural filler. For a bolt, cover one side of hole with duct tape and pack in epoxy from the other side. For a blind hole it isn't necessary to through drill it, but it won't hurt. After the epoxy filler is cured, re-drill a pilot hole in the center of the epoxy plug, coat fastener with 5200 and reinstall. No water will ever get into the core this way

[Pearl Diver]

X2 on the Craker Larry method mentioned above. I have seen this on a few boat building sites for all bolts and screws... Seems like over-kill but it's far better to do it once and not ever have to worry!

[VeroWing]

I would definitly seal all holes in transom thoroughly. Check link below to see major rebuild I had to do on my 22' Grady because of water penetrating into transom wood, and rotting it. You can also see examples of overdrilling/filling/redrilling accessory holes, as Cracker Larry mentioned above. If you plan to keep boat, it is time well spent, and will pay off bigtime for years ahead. Mike

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19949

Edited November 23, 2009 by VeroWing

[Pez Vela]

Just bought a 215 Kencraft that has a wooden cored transon. Trying to decide if I should remove the tabs, bracket, transducer, etc from the transom so I can make sure everything is sealed and wood is not exposed. Would you go through the trouble? Why/Why not?

Boat is 2002 with only 188 hours and in great shape.

Gary

I would have inspected the transom as thoroughly as possible prior to purchase, subject to the reasonable limitations that the seller would have imposed. This would probably have consisted of removing one or more screws nearest to the bottom of the hull (transducer?) to check for water seepage. You should do this now at a minimum.

How far should you go beyond that depends: Did you see any evidence of water intrusion in your preliminary inspection? Were any of the transom attachments installed by the owner, or were they all factory installed? Do Kencraft transoms have a history of water intrusion problems greater or less than other builders? Will you "slip" your boat or keep it on a trailer. I would not go crazy and rebuild your boat if no problems are apparent. Some people do nothing but work on their boats and never take them out. Others enjoy boating, but detest maintenance and preventative care. Find a happy medium ... whatever makes you happy is the correct decision. Boating is fun either way ... enjoy your new ride!