Cracker Larry

That is an amazing sight! Wasn't someone recently worried about too many deck lights on their Bertie? I don't think it will be a problem

Yes there are, and every one of them is built incorrectly. Just because someone builds something doesn't make it right. Sometimes I think these manufacturers don't have a mechanical engineer to share between them. Anytime a stringer has a step it will hinge at that location when it flexes, and it will fail at the step. Thousands have failed in this manner. Notches and reliefs are even worse than steps. A stringer's job is to stiffen the hull and a curved stringer can't do that. It's other job is to support the deck and I don't see those stringers doing that either. I'll quote David Pascoe here, he has more letters behind his name than I do... Reference: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/HullFailPart1.htm

Stringers tops should not curve, the tops of a stringer should always form a straight line, no curves, no steps, no change of level. The bottom needs to curve of course, to conform with the hull, but the top edge should be a straight run. And the tops of all 3 of them should be on the same level plane. Looks impressive but it wouldn't pass a survey. And they sure seem too low to support the sole when it goes back in.

Good luck with the upgrade. I've been enjoying the forum since I found it

Nice work. That's a BIG project : I'd rather build a boat from scratch than to tackle a rebuild like that, it's a serious commitment. I'm also a fan and follower of Pascoe, you can't go wrong by following his advise. And if you're going to do that much work and spend that much money, might as well do it right

Nice workmanship, but you are making a mistake foaming in the tank. The above comments are correct about the foam and water. It's not good to set a metal tank in foam, but many manufacturers do it. The coal tar epoxy will help some, but water will eventually corrode the aluminum. The tank needs to be mounted in a manner that water cannot get trapped next to it. Also, the tank should not rest on the bottom of the boat, it should be supported by the stringers. The hull bottom is not made to support that much weight. Here is the correct way to do it http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm Also, USCG regulations require that the tank cannot move more than 1/4" in any direction, including up. I'd weld 4 aluminum tabs to the top of the tank and secure them to the stringers.

I go a step further, it's nothing but a thing and beats watching TV. Remove the fitting, drill the screw/bolt holes to 1/2" oversized the original size of screw or bolt, and 1/2" deeper than they need to be. Pack the new holes with epoxy thickened with wood flour, or a West System structural filler. For a bolt, cover one side of hole with duct tape and pack in epoxy from the other side. For a blind hole it isn't necessary to through drill it, but it won't hurt. After the epoxy filler is cured, re-drill a pilot hole in the center of the epoxy plug, coat fastener with 5200 and reinstall. No water will ever get into the core this way

I would if it were mine. The biggest cause of an early death or major repairs in boats is transom rotting and delaminating. This is almost always caused by improperly installed hardware allowing water to get between the skin and the core. A foam core can get the same delaminations, it's not restricted to wood. Don't believe all the foam marketing buzz. It only takes a little water between the core and skin and hydrostatic pressure will pump that water throughout the lamination, separating the skin from the core. Properly made, a wood transom is every bit as good as foam, or better. Both need all the hardware sealed and I don't trust many people or companies to do it right.

I fish with a good friend out of Hudson a few times a year, and the fishing is always great. Worth my trip down from Savannah, GA. We fish between 20 and 75 miles out, in 30 to 100 feet of water, mostly for grouper and snapper, but we get cobia , kings and others too. Deeper in the summer, shallower in the cool months. I don't have any specific info, other than to say that the fishing is very good to excellent in that area, and worth pursuing I was down there 2 weeks ago, four people fishing, we got a limit of gags and released about 50 shorts, a limit of red grouper and released about 100 shorts, a limit of snapper, plus 2 cobia. Fished 25 miles out in 35 feet of water.

Wishing he could be put out on my terms. Not sure where this country is heading but it's not where it came from.

She's got enough power to pull a slalom, I could ski behind it anyway. What you really have to be careful of is that the boat doesn't have much mass and momentum. A strong skier on a slalom can snatch the stern around and cause you to lose control of the boat. If you keep it tame and sane and the skier does the same, it will work OK at a recreational level. Not nearly strong enough for competition level skiing but fine for an afternoon of fun.

Sorry, I don't have an answer, just an observation. Some things on a boat just shouldn't be electronic, and that's probably one of them.

I agree with Rick. Every boat needs an "OFF" switch on the power, and everything should be wired to except the bilge pump. All dry stack marinas and many wet slip marinas require a battery switch due to their insurance regulations.

Beautiful Rick!

Exactly

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I would recommend a survey on any boat of significant value. Even brand new boats can have many problems. You're only talking about a few hundred dollars for a boat like that and it could save you thousands in the long run.

Also, boat hulls are not round, not spinning and not flying 100 mph through the air. A lot of tests have been done with dimpling, both sailboats and power boats. In all cases it increases drag. One reference http://www.hydeoutdoors.com/boats/randd/ excerpt,

Figure 3-5K if you have the transom replaced. Maybe $1,500 if you do it yourself. Think of the rebuild as you would a house. Start with a solid foundation and work up.

That would make an excellent project boat. The first thing I would do is make sure the hull, transom and stringers are sound. No delaminations, waterlogging, cracks, soft spots. If you don't know how, pay someone who does. The price seems too low for a sound hull. There are a lot of penetrations in the deck that could allow water intrusion and cause rot you can't see, like this.. If the hull is sound, that price is a steal! Even if you have to replace the transom, stringers and sole, it wouldn't be a bad buy, just know what you're getting into. There could be a lot of ugly hiding under that deck, and we wouldn't want to hang new engines on a rotten transom.

Another in favor the impact driver. You might try a large screwdriver with a square shank, put it in the slot and give it a few good hammer bolws, then put a large adjustable wrench on the shank. Get one person to push ###### the screwdriver while the other turns the wrench. One more thought about draining that I didn't see mentioned. After you have flushed it out, let it sit a few minutes. Then tilt the engine up for a few minutes and back down. You'll see more water drain out. Cycle it up and down a few times until it quits.

Maybe Obama needs to start a "Cash for Clinkers" program Good information, thanks for sharing.

I'd use 5200, there's nothing better IMO.

I'd rather have that 46 year old boat than a new one. They don't build them to that quality anymore. Glad the survey is going well! Those squid on the bottom actually raise fish, many people swear by them. A permanent teaser. I've also heard of a few fish bills being stuck through hull bottoms! http://www.xtralook.net/products.html

Beautiful! She sure is in nice condition. Very sweet Just as a heads up, some of the older Bertrams had some stringer problems. I'm sure your surveyor knows this and what to look for.