Jump to content
Welcome to the Reel Boating Forum.
From Trailer Boaters to Captains to Marine Industry Professionals, the Reel Boating Forum welcomes you to join in with other boaters and fishermen discussing topics including sportfishing, marine electronics, boating safety, boat engines and more.
Use our FREE boat classifieds to sell your boat or fishing gear.
Marine Industry Vendors are also welcome to register a username and freely post their products or services

jaydon

Registered
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

jaydon's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. OK, here's the update. Went down to the boatyard and hooked up the multimeter to the gauge. I didn't disconnect the wires at the gauge, just hooked to the terminals. Raised and lowered the engine several times. OHMS went smoothly from about 2 to about 4 repeatedly. The trim gauge didn't move from full up. Switched the multi over to 12vDC. Left the trim alone and gauge started fluctuating again. The voltage on the multimeter fluctuated with the trim gauge fluctuations. All without touching the trim control. Everyone at the boatyard said sender; but i'm not sure. The sender is $100, gauge about $40. Anyone with any advice; or maybe it's something totally different? Thanks Jay
  2. Good morning I don't know if anyone has had this problem; but i'm hoping for some advise. The engine trim gauge on the console has gotten 'fluky'. As the engine is trimed up the needle starts to waver. It will read ok for a second, then drop down to trimmed down, then back up. It seems to happen most as the gauge passes thru the mid point. I manually massaged the gauge and seems to be the same whether it's moved by hand or by the engine. The sender looks fine, no corrosion on the spring. Here's the deal - how to test whether it's the gauge or the sender? Is there a way to test the signal coming from the sender? I don't mind replacing parts, but don't want to buy a new sender and find it's the gauge or vice-versa. By the way, the boat is at the dock. Any help would be appreciated Jay
  3. Hi all, Just got my mDSC hooked up and MMSI entered in the GPS. Now, how do I know that it's working? Definately don't want to press the red button. Thanks Jay
  4. Hi all, Just got back from the local Sea Hunt dealer. The didn't have either boat in stock; but looked at a 188. Nice fit, etc. Looking at the catalog, they have two in the size i'm looking for. The 202 and 207. Hull wise they appear to be the same except for the length. There is a 7" difference. Deadrise & weight the same. Anyone have any experience with either of these boats? Really looking to see how they handle a good chop. I've got a 17'6" now and it's a little short when the water's a little choppy. Like over 2' and short interval. Thanks for any help. Jay
  5. I'm up here in the sunny NE. If I were buying a boat from a dealer; how about just making the sale contingent on the survey?
  6. Well, here's how it went. Pulled the lower cover. Disconnected the shift and throttle linkages and hand operated both control points on the engine. They both operated smoothly. While still disconnected, I operated the shift/throttle lever on the console. It was very smooth. Then connected the throttle linkage and it was fine. Disconnected the throttle again and connected the shift. Hard to operate. I did notice that when I disconnected the throttle linkage, the cable end stayed put. When I disconnected the shift linkage, the cable wanted to move toward the engine; almost like the connection point was too far outboard (stbd). I think this 'misalignment' is causing the problem; but for the life of me, I can't imagine how it came to be. All cables are wrapped together - gas, electric, shift & throttle cables - and are locked in when the cover is installed. Also there is the tab that holds the cables to the side of the engine. I'm at a loss. Jay
  7. Good morning Well, yesterday I changed the impeller on my DF115. A little hard getting the last 5 inches of the shaft clear; but it went well. Everything went back together fine; including the shift rod connection. BUT, after getting it back together, going into fwd gear is ok, but as I continue into the throttle portion of the shift it gets really stiff. Reverse seems to be ok. I haven't tried it with the engine running yet to make sure the prop is turning in the correct fwd/rev directions [or that it just doesn't stay in 'N']. Other than pulling the lower end again; any suggestions what to look for? Thanks Jay
  8. Hi all, Well, joined a while ago; but just got back on. I'm a refugee from THT. Live and fish in RI, both surf and boat. Got a [please don't laugh] ProSports 1760 with a DF115. Wiley, THT was great, but it did get a little out of hand at the end. Gl;ad to see you made this move. Love to hear from anyone fishing the breachways or south County. Jay
  9. Hi all, Just saw this and was happy to see someone else had similar questions. First off, I have an 18' CC. CC, but no head. I have been thinking of moving the batteries to the console. The boat's a 2002 with a Zuke DF115. I'm thinking the boat was not designed with the weight of a 4 stroke back aft. I got the boat with two batteries; but have been thinking of going to mone in the console. I see a lot of opinion on 1 vs. 2 batteries and was wondering, since there is no 'below deck' area and only the normal console radio & GPS fnder and the lighting, do I really need two batteries? I think one good one in the console would really improve the weight distribution. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks Jay in soggy RI
  10. Welcome to the ReelBoating Forum Jay :)

×
×
  • Create New...