Mr. Demeanor

I may be coming by your camera in a couple weeks. Depends on weather and scheduling. Can I call ahead and get pic lined up?

Gotta agree on the Mod4 comments. I had a pretty funny PM exchange with him recently. whoever he is, he has been around awhile. Used my real name in the PM so he at least has been paying attention. I started with the high performance board like Offshoreonly (also recently purchased by IB). That place was much like what THT has become. I ended up over at Speedwake and its amazing how even though most of the members are at both sites, Speedwake rarely has the drama and issues. I hope that is how this ends up. I actually hope THT survives as it will be a place for all that garbage.

I found the post that got me banned. It was deleted but someone had quoted me. Funny stuff in retrospect....not much has changed. Originally posted by Intolerant1 OSO impressed me te most when they deleted the thread where the members were discussing and offering suggestions in regards to the latest required fee for viewing images This one is a post I really would rather forget: Those of you have have had prblems with engine builders listen up. Im about to make you feel better about your woes. For those not flollowing the saga, a brief synopsis. I had a two level lumbar spinal fusion on 9/10/02. If was a ***** and somthing I was glad to have gotten past. Last Monday, I began havig severe pain in my right leg. I called my Dr. who attributed it to healing pains. I knew better and on Wed. demanded a CT scan of my spine be performed. To make a long...very long...story short, during my surgery they used wedge shaped bone implants from a donor which were driven in between my vetrbra after the discs wer removed. These wedges are barbed to prevent then from backking out while the fusion becomes solid. Well, one of mine backed out and actually cut the dura (the lining the your nerves runs through and contains your cerebral spinal fluid). I was directed to retun to the hospital immediataly fpr emergency surgery. They had to completely reopen my 6" incision, loosen all the hardware (screws, rods, etc.) and replace the bone graft that had falied. Two weeks after a major surgery, I had to go through the entire thing again. I had just gotten to the point where I could get around but now Im back to square one. I can barley walk and typing this is exhuasting but I nneded to vent. According to my Dr. at the University of Chicago and Medtronics, the maker of the implant, this has b=never happened in thousands of uses.....lucky me. So thats all for now, Im going to surf for a few while and then back to bed. I hope this makes sense as Im pretty doped up. Take care and be safe. I actually ended up back in the hospital and partially paralyzed from that incident. I was so drugged up I had no idea how bad I really was. Maybe for the best. Surgey #6 was two weeks after that post. Dark time in my life.

On following with my other topic, I thought I would look for the oldest post I could find. I found this on Offshoreonly from 8/11/02. My screen name at the time was Intolerant1 and a few people had asked if I was racist. In retrospect I guess that was a poor choice but I came across this discussion just before I switched names. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general...html#post344051 I wonder if I can find my first ever Internet forum post? PS. I ended up getting banned from OSO. Never argue with the owner of the house !

I was thinking that if I left the sand out, it would float. Might be a better option.

Yup! Iwork from home on the computer (if you can call it that). I get an idea and enjoy building stuff. Some day one will be a million dollar idea!

When you cant find what you want, build it yourself. 1" PVC (the caps give it a 1-1/4" diameter which fits nice and snug) I used aluminum tubing for this trial run but may look for some stainless in 1/2" as this wont stay shiny. Aluminum tube is epoxied into PVC then PVC filled with sand for ballast. I just zipped tied the flag on to see how she will look. Need to get some stainless eye hooks. I may just put my dive flag on this and make a stainless one for Stars and Stripes

I started this forum thing a long time ago when I was bed ridden (partially paralyzed) after a spinal cord injury. I have made a lot of "real" friends over the years through the boards. The boards I follow have changed over the years from high performance motorcycling and boat to more fishing orientated formats. Just for kicks, I Googled my screen name "Mr. Demeanor". It's a like a cyber walk down memory lane. If you have been around awhile, give it a try. Some of what I found made me laugh pretty good. PS. There are apparently some other Mr. Demeanors out there !

But an auditory wet dream

I just looked at our friends huge living quarters four horse trailer with tack room and living quarters. It is a 2 axle setup and is fitted with Goodyear G load rated Unisteel 16" tires. That trailer has been all over the country with zero tire issues.

My washdown has more pressure but the livewell has more volume which is what the engine needs. At full open, I fill that 50 gallon livewell in a few minutes.

I just wedge a short piece of 4x4 between the two pointy ends that are at each of the piece you are holding. Not on the hydraulics. Both Keep the load off the hydrualics but not the transom.

To drain it I unscrew that little pipe plug. I was going to add a shutoff valve for draining inside the tank but it would stick out and just one more thing to catch the net on. I tried to keep this close to he livewell wall. There is a shutoff for the drain on he outside of the tank. My water inlet is opposite the drain and about 4" off the bottom. It fills from the bottom up and the water is directed along the wall of the tank so it circles. The water enters through a fitting that is actually a 90 degree barb fitting. The barbed end sticks into the tank. I have been meaning to get a long length of hose that would fit over that barb fitting in the tank. In the event I woud lose an impeller offshore, I could hook a hose to that barb fitting and use the baitwell pump to supply water to the engine via the flush port on the cowling.

I have a 50 gallon livewell that is actually about 45gallons due to the height where the two drains were placed. I have converted the drain at the bottom to stand pipe setup so I don't have to carry 360 pounds of water when I am only keeping some shrimp or a few bait fish alive. I have to turn down the shutoff valve on the livewell to reduce flow when using only the one stand pipe but with reduced volume it still looks like a good flow of water. My livewell is 30" in diameter so with 6" of water I have about a 20 gallon capacity. 4" gives me 13 gallons with some extra aeration as the water will come in above the level in the tank and I would have a quicker turnover. Which would be better? PS. I will carry a few lengths of PVC for good measure.

The trailer is a new 3 horse slant load Sundowner. No living quarters, just the dressing room. Its pretty light being aluminum with a steel frame. The tires are 15" Maxxis but I dont know the specs off hand. I will be hooking it up later today and try and report back. When we were in Ocala looking at trailers I noticed many of the huge (one we looked at had a $1million price tag) were running Uniroyal E rated truck tires. One problem I have with the boat is that I have 14" wheels but I may not have room for 15". Its pretty close. The only D rated 14" tires I can find are Carlisles and the Khumo's from tire rack.

I would just give them a call and get a quote with shipping. I think this is the kit your talking about (integral rotor/hub) http://www.tufftrailer.com/store/index.php...products_id=267 At $216.24 its a much better price than your list in the first post. You should really think about bumping up to the stainless steel calipers. They will outlast the trailer and its the one part that you cant easily change out. I would even think about getting a spare hub/rotor assembley. Its very easy to change out a hub o the side of road. Bearings, not so easy.

I just purchased Kodiaks form this place and the beat everyone including thise listed above. The shipping was CHEAP! Drop shipped from Kodiak. I paid less for the kit with stainless calipers than the other places were chaging for the full cadmium kits. http://www.tufftrailer.com/store/index.php...dex&cPath=8

www.defender.com They will send you a catalog with your order that is great for walking into West and asking for a price match.

So the Yamaha 400hp outboard is a reality!

The amazing thing for right now is I have 4, six year old bias ply Carlisle USA Trails on my boat trailer and they look great.

I was doing a search last night looking for 14" D load rated tires last night and came across these. All the review I read were positive. Many people with 14" C load rated Marathons that failed ended up with these. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...;partnum=9R4857

We just bought a large horse trailer that came with Maxxis trailer tires. I have been hearing good things about these. The huge horse trailers with living quarters (up to $1 million rigs) are coming with E load rated Uniroyal truck tires. These are very large trailers that see a lot of sidewall stress when turning.

Just an idea for others with the same issue. You dont have to run the tab parallel with the angle of the hull at the tramson. You can run them more "level" and use a slightly longer tab. Many high performance boats have the tabs mounted completely horizontal. This prevents them from acting like "brakes". If you think about it, tabs mounted in the traditional position like those above are moving in different directions as they go down (slightly port and starboard of the boat). By mounting them horizotal, they both move in the same direction which reduces drag and increases efficiency. It also decreases the tabs tendancy to be make an abrupt change in running attitude as they are depolyed. The outer edge ends up contacting the water first and then more and more of the tab as they are lowered. This would have moved your top hinge outward quite a bit. Take a look at the transom shot of this Fountain for example: http://www.yachtauctions.com/detail.asp?stockNo=19923

I dont want to go offshore in a boat with less than a 22 degree deadrise at the transom but I have been spoiled by boats with lots of deadrise. If being a little tippier is an issue, drop anchor or get a drift sock to keep the bow into the waves. Dramamine is also an excellent option What good is a stable platform if you dont wat to go out anytime its a little rough? Put it this way, I have never been beat up in an anchored or drifting boat. I have been beat to death in a few boats during the run in and out.

Final justice: http://www.miamiherald.com/news/southflori...ory/977938.html