OReely

First off, the resin used in the manufacture of fiberglass gives off a distinct odor for days, weeks, or even months, depending on the resin chosen, lay up conditions catalyst level, etc. I'm not sure that it would be the best material for a humidor unless you were prepared to let it age for quite some time. If you still want to build from glass the you can do as was stated by nitz for a quicky mold that will take some post-finishing to make it look decent. I would use melamine instead of MDF. The plastic finish on the melamine only needs one coat of wax and will allow easy release of the part. It will still need post-finishing, although not as much. If you want to build really nice parts you would need to build a pattern (also known as a plug) and then a mold. The pattern is made to look exactly like you want the finished part to look and then a mold is built off it.

Wow! What a stupid stand to take. I wonder if they feel the same way about mosquitoes. I mean, after all, they're "lesser creatures" also. If the do, I'd like to take them to Flamingo for an early morning launch and video tape the results.

I have used Gibco products for years and done numerous repairs with it. It takes a little practice to get it right but it's not that hard to get decent results. I would add a few things that to that repair procedure that I've learned over the years. 1. The mold release wax step. Apply 5-7 coats of wax, allow each coat to dry before buffing off. 2. The squeegee step. Use a squeegee that is wider than the repair area. If you use one that is narrower you might remove too much of the gelcoat when you squeegee this will leave a depression where the repair has been made. Use a good amount of pressure when squeegeeing to remove excess gel coat. The idea is to press down hard enough to register with the original gelcoat leaving just enough to fill the void area. If you don't you can form a ridge at the edge of the repair. 3. Remove the mold very carefully when the gel is still a little soft. Cleanup is easier and if you don't like the results you can scrape it up with a putty knife and try again.

Scott, I looked at the pictures and they brought to mind a couple of questions. How much is this lowering cost? Labor? Material? I can see where there might be a little labor savings and maybe even a little shaved off on material costs (although I don't know what your product sells for) but I can't imagine a huge savings on either. More important to me, you said it is better structurally. How so? Are you referring to single skin construction or sandwich (cored) construction. What exactly make this construction better. I may be a little unconventional in my thinking but I prefer structural quality over marginal cost savings. I know some people like to save money and that is the main driver for material selection. Although I'm not one to use high tech solutions to solve low tech problems, I will, within limits, spend a little extra if it will make a better product.

They couldn't stand the smell either.

When it's my favorite flavor - cold!

From what I understand the bonding/grounding wire is really just a way to bleed off static electricity. I don't remember the exact terminology but there's something called a step leader or ladder (or something else?) that emanates from statically charged items which provides a path for lightning to travel. I would imagine it can't hurt to run a wire to ground. Obviously, if the boat gets hit anyway, the ground wire probably isn't going to protect anything, but it might help avoid getting hit in the first place.

The top one I could probably do, never been afraid of heights. Bet they make some serious green. The middle one reminds me of way too many plane rides, why do I always get stuck next to the overflowing slob and there's a nice skinny, hot chick across the isle. The third one, lets just say the turnover is probably too high.

Nothing like a dolphin feeding frenzy to get kids into fishing. Remember dolphin have a size limit (20" fork measurement) and a bag limit of 10 per angler or 60 per boat, whichever is less. Those peanuts can add up fast if you get into a bunch of them.

I don't know about the wireless tail lights but I have a wireless back up camera. Every time I drive past a particular Walgreens I get a view of the parking lot. It also picked up a TV signal when I was driving past the TV station, news was on at the time. I wonder if they have a particular frequency or some kind of filter to keep stray signals from affecting your lights.

It's always funny till someone loses an eye. My older brother stabbed my with a pen knife. My younger brother shot me with a pellet gun right under my eye (yes it went in). I stepped on my older brother's hand while climbing in a tree, he ended up with a broken leg. I rigged my younger brother's bicycle so the front wheel fell off when he tried to pop a wheelie. One of my best friends threw a homemade spear at me and it hit me in the eye socket, right next to the eyeball, cut an artery (or vein, not sure which). Those are just off the top of my head. It was all just kids goofing around. And yes, the guilty party always got a pretty good azzwuppin until we figured out we needed to cover for each other.

Does Wiley know the Bush's baked bean dog? What about the Taco Bell chihuahua? Yo quiero Wiley?

Won't harm the gelcoat unless there is an air void under it (which will most likely break at some point anyway). Watch out for anything soft - upholstery, gaskets, toes.

I think for the 80w's, you'll have to get the stainless steel version with the optional thigh extension.

I've noticed that any sites I use that have google ads or video seem to load slow on my old laptop at my shop. I'm not sure if it's the laptop or the connection. The laptop is about 8 years old and the connection is DSL. It is frustrating but I just live with it. One day I'll pull the trigger and get a new machine. Then I'll know how slow the connection is. At the house, a few years ago I went from dial-up to cable broadband . Kind of like going from a Model T to a Corvette. Dial-up was horrible. I used it mainly for my brokerage account. If I ran out of all other options I would use it to find something on the net but thats about it.

You should either connect all underwater metal (preffered) via a bonding wire to 12 vdc negative or leave the seacocks isolated from any electrical connection, grounding or grounded. If something goes wrong in your electrical system you could inadvertently be building a battery, the seacock at one end and the engine at the other with the seawater acting as an electrolyte. This is the reason bonding is important on boats that live in water. Granted, it's less important for trailer boats but if you decide to leave it in the water for an extended period (perhaps on a vacation or other event) you could run into problems. Or the guy you sell it to might let it live in the water.

Kingair, Looks good so far. One question for you, on the console where you filled the old cutouts, how did you accomplish the repair? Did you glass it in first and then use body putty or is it all body putty (or some other filler)? The reason I'm asking is that body putties tend to crack with age do to internal stresses associated with curing, especially if they are put on thick. What looks good today might not look so hot a year from now.

What, you don't know how to cast?

Raritan Engineering makes the Lectrasan for treatment. They have a line of products that probably has something that fits what you need. Good quality for the most part. Here's a link - http://www.raritaneng.com/products/waste_t...ment/index.html There are a few different things you need to be thinking about. Can you discharge (even treated effluent) in the area where you plan to keep the boat? Some places are zero discharge. If you're using raw water to flush, is it fresh, brackish, or salt water? If it's fresh or brackish you might need to add a salt injector. Raw water flushing can have odors associated with the organisms in the water left in the bowl. Potable water flush is the best in that regard If you're treating the waste you don't need a 200 gallon holding tank. In fact, it may be a detriment to the system. Can you remove the current tank? Is the space available for the treatment system easily accessible? No matter how good the system is, it will need periodic maintenance and/or repairs. Do you have enough power available to run the treatment system? Raritan has always been helpful on a technical level. You might want to give them a call.

I'll keep my fingers crossed but I don't know if they'll have much affect of the ######. The biggest one is only about 8" tall. I'm going to start charging the neighbor kids admission, they're all gathered under the tree right now looking for the owls.

My wife found these guys in the tree in front of the house yesterday. At least one of the adults has lived here for a year or so. Every once in a while, it will swoop through the carport when I'm out grilling at dusk, no doubt checkin' out my steak. The 1st fledgling The 2nd fledgling The proud papa The doting mother These are Eastern Screech Owls and according to a neighbor who's one of those earthy types, the red ones are less common. Pretty cool, considering we live in a suburban neighborhood. Had a big crowd out last night at dusk checking them out. Definitely better than the big masked rats (raccoons) that regularly terrorize the garbage cans, or the iguanas that are expanding their population in leaps and bounds.

Thanks. I've already got a photobucket account, I'll use that. The upload button on the other areas seems to be easier to me. I wonder why it's not on this forum?

No photos in dockside chatter? There's no upload button here like in other areas. Are photos not allowed?

The Sandbar - One Click from Here One Click Away One click to Fun The Fun's Just a Click Away

I meant to post the link below earlier. It is the cam cleat I use for the adjuster line. I use the smaller ones. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...;classNum=12351