knotreel

If you are going with an ETEC big block why get a 225? go for the 250. I quess the 250 might be about the same weight as the 225? But the F225 you have is a great motor and I personally would not swap it out just to save 100 lbs or so. Did you know the new F300's weight about 40 lbs less than the F250 and I assume your F225 too? The F300 seems irresistable to me.

I have a Suzuki service manual for my DF300's, my owners manuals do not cover error codes but the service manual does, trying getting the service manual, got mine on EBay.

An attractive thing about switching over to 4s vs DI 2s was that I could bust out of the snake oil syndrome. Me, I am going with an API name brand oil that is reasonably priced. My DF 300's ,according to the owners manual, call for API or NMMA FC-W. Yamaha has always tried to push Yamalube on it's customers. Lately I have been using Rotella. Seems it has been around marine engines for awhile?

I was fishing, now I am not fishing, Venice LA being my home port. My main concern is seeing them get a BOP that works 100%. There were mistakes make by people on the rig and the fail safe didn't work. Overall the oil companies have a good record in the GOM. I mainly see this as a failure of critical piece piece of equipment, that simple. People will always make mistakes and always, at times, have poor judgment but the fail safe MUST work. The fed should not have shut down all deep water drilling, they should just put extra inspection people on the rigs, and require more, say once a week, operational checks of the BOP till the BOP malfunction can be researched and fixed. I thought oil production was critical to our national security and interests, has that changed? If the BOP had worked as they have in the past none of this would have happened, now they are on a which hunt and seem to be forgetting the equipment issue which this really boils down to. I know drilling ban is not a big deal to people outside LA but the economic impact of the ban on top of the impact of the spill is like us having two cat 5 hurricanes instead of one with the second one being done just with a pen.

my book says it is the DWB system ,posible conditions: .-CAN communication error between BCM and ECM -LPS error (ECM recieved an input signal from each sensor that was outside the range ot 4.5- 5.5V as total of main sensor and subsensor) - Low BCM source voltage (less than 6v) -BCM failure -ECM failure As to your question about fixing it, that would depend on your diagontic skills. If you let anybody other than the dealer monkey around with this, it should at least be a auto technican with this skill set.

I have the same problem with my Suzuki SMIS gauges. Does anyone have a solution? Since the orginal post, I replaced both engine interfaces and I now have engine temp for each engine an the reset problem has not reoccured.

I don't know any guide lines for torque, but tighten them down by hand, as tight as you can using a standard lenght wrench or ratchet handle' say about 60-70 ftlbs. I would not use 5200, i think of it as an adhesive,something like Lifeseal is better for bedding things. The 5200 could do some damage when you remove your engines the next time.

From my Suzuki DF300 factory service manual "Use only oils that are rated SE,SF,SG,or SJ under the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification system or NMMA FC-W classification system. Ther Viscosity rating should be SAE (or NMMA FC-W) 10W-40........" I don't see anything about Suzuki brand or any other brand. Me personally I think brands are mossty about advertising and all major oil brands are plenty good for a four stroke outboard. Major Brands = Shell, Mobil, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol and maybe a few others. I think that Castrol and and maybe Pennzoil probably just buy oil stock and bend theirs but that's ok in my mind. I don't belive that the outboard mfg's know as much about oil as these guys and the outboard mfg's certainly don't even blend their on oil. So I buy one of the majors, API classifaction, from places like AutoZone or whatever for my DF300's that cost less that 2 bucks and is readly available. I can't think of any reason why I would ever want to buy "Suzuki" oil or how it could be better.

I can't believe YOU have 3.5 year old motors!! At least you have broken the regulator cylce. haven't seen you in a while, Hammer

I use self etching primer for aluminum after using an aluminum cleaner/treatment. The products you need for this system are available from an automotive paint store. I use Dupont Vari-prime,low build super adhering to aluminum. And these stores also are a good source for the cleaner/treater (an acid product that is diluted with water). To get Vari-prime you will have to go to a store that stocks DuPont products. I think BASF has an acid (self-etching) primer as well but I am not 100% sure on that. I follow the self etching primer with a two part epoxy primer for some build and added protection and finish with an automotive paint. Usually use an acrylic enamel modified with urethane. I don't think pure urethane finish paint is of much, if any, added benefit if you have cleaned, treated, applied self etching primer and followed with a couple of coats of epoxy. A famous aluminum boat fabricator in our area has a simpler system for whole boat painting, he sandblasts, shoots epoxy primer, then finishes with two part urethane. His paint jobs hold up very well. My aluminum painting has been on tee tops, railings, grab bars ect.

My set of Dana Marine planes came with aftermarket mercuiser pump, not OEM. Shop around these are a lot cheaper than from Merc dealers . I think you can get a pump and motor unit from the company "AfterMarket marine" www.amarket.com for 225 but do not have the solenoids.

Simple, you should have bought a Smartstick, and spoke Canadian.

I can't fault Suzuki for using a little HP printer ink sales approach. After all, you shouldn't believe everything the mfg, tells you, oils are one of favorite outboard rants too. Ok, use good oil, even use really good oil, but now use our super exepensive low carbon oil, then add a gas additive like "ring NOT free" so carbon won't stick your rings an destroy your motor and now some dealers are saying use that additive in F strokes. I'll rolling my pant's legs. Back to the props. There is no question in my mind that zuke has some catching up to do in gearcase shapes, their super sonic missile nose cone shape vs, the rest of OB mfg's that use attack submarine shaped. Enought said. These puppies are picky while others can run pretty good in a range of heights and trims. After a full load test it now looks like I will be best propped at 21P or 21 1/2 P hummm! that's what my 225 merc's ran only difference is gear ratio, 1.75 to 1 vs 2.10 to 1. That sucks!! I need a minimun of 300 more like 400 more rpm.

I have installed a couple of Smart Sticks and had some contact with the streering division and I agree, they have always been very helpful in giving infomation, but to exchange your whole steering and rudder reference when they could have easily sluffed it off on the installer. Top is over the top.

the bravos were one of the omitted tests, the published tests were just some that had some potential. I was shooting for a prop that did not have as much stern as lift as the rev4 and bravo1. I like the way the present props run except for the obvious pitch issues. But since I own a pile of props now, won't be running out to buy more right now. Plus, I plan a few fishing trips to see how they do with a fishing load in the gulf. Then I will get into the pitch issues. Right now I am just happy to finally be able to run WOT. I plan on shooting for the middle of the 5700-6300 range, say about 6000 light maybe 5700 heavy. I have noticed that the fuel economy above 4500 starts to go off, so I will not shoot for max top speed.