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Sandy

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Everything posted by Sandy

  1. I can't imagine someone using 1" warp on their crab pot line . Are you sure that wasn't an emergency marker over a stuck anchor someone had planned to return to retrieve?
  2. I always check to see that the pump turns on automatically briefly as water runs to the stern just before 1st planing (I can see the flow from the tower), then turn the pumps on manually to confirm that sw works as well and remove the most bilge water they can get out.
  3. Hire a swan- they can be vicious. Setting up a perimeter of monfoliment will generally keep birds off boats or docks. That may be a PIA but probably less so than the ugly cleanup.
  4. Try new plugs and what is your starting technique? If there is a primer/choke solenoid have you confirmed that is operational? Have you charged and load tested your starting battery, and made sure all battery cable connections at both ends and engine grounds are clean & tight for strongest cranking? Is this in FL?
  5. Tired old gas? Long overdue for a complete tuneup not just plugs & filters? Did you gap the plugs to proper spec? Cables back tight on proper plugs? Air intrusion (from leaky filter gasket , loose hose clamp or unsealed threaded connector?)or fuel restriction causing lean mix? Any smoke or steam in the exhaust under load? Check dist.cap , check the new plugs( wet,carboned, condition of each compared to a sp. plug chart?), timing and perhaps try running on a portable tank of brand new fresh fuel. If it still has points, do they look new and have correct dwell angle set? Choke opening all the way when warm? Anything abnormal showing on the gauges? Fuel pump pressure correct? What condition is that "original prop"? Just because it's the original prop doesn't mean it still has the original pitch, or even diameter, + boats can gain a lot of weight over the years. Reving in neutral takes a fraction of the fuel flow compared to under load, and you can do it w/ 1 cylinder not firing.
  6. Since you just replaced your tank sender , I wonder if you either have a shorted circuit to neg. ground (bypassing the sender)if it is a USA/"std" gauge sender combo, or open sender to ground circuit if Euro type , or perhaps you paired one type of sender ( USA /"std" OR Euro/ metric ohms range ) with the opposite type gauge- that's a common error. . Both USA & Euro types are used in boats over here, but must be matched since the USA ohms range is approx 240 empty to 33 full, and Euro goes the opposite direction at approx. 10 ohms empty to 180 full. (To complicate things a little further, gauges at dual stations employ a sender w/ approx 1/2 the ohms. Also, there are at least 2 senders (both no-moving-parts, capacitance-tube type,.. Centroid Products tank sender is one of them) that can sense water in the tank and will indicate that by having the gauge read overfull & stay that way until the water is removed no matter what the fluid level. ) No mater what make yours are, Faria has some good gauge/sender trouble-shooting info that should help: http://faria-instruments.com/site_manuals/IS0085E.pdf http://faria-instruments.com/site_manuals/IS0100_ApxVII.pdf http://faria-instruments.com/site_manuals/IS0100_MiscGauges.pdf You can check yours with a multimeter. Try removing the hose from the bulb on the engine side, then see if you can pump a solid stream of fuel into a safe container. If so, you can probably rule out anything upstream toward the tank and concentrate on fuel pump and float valve possibilities. Sometimes bulbs need to be in reverse attitude, with outlet down , to pull fuel up to it. If the bulb is old, suggest just replace it with a new good one. But 1st I'd make really sure the primer/choke lever was in the correct position and that the plugs were not wet from all this pumping and cranking. You might also carefully set the end of a wooden block against the side of carbs and whack it to see if a stuck open float valve will fall into place and let you pump up without flowing out the throats. No pro here, just making suggestions. Another consideration is that after all this pumping it's possible there is a lot of liquid gas in the bottom of your engine, so with charged battery & sp.plugs out and and plug cables carefully grounded you might crank the engine to see if anything in there will flush. Don't crank very long at one time without letting the starter cool down even with no compression.
  7. I believe the red lever is the optional manual override primer valve on the primer solenoid. One way it either primes when you push the ign key (?) in or maybe automatically at start position . The other way allows you to manually choke at the engine .(or prime with bulb?) So that could be your problem with attempting to manually prime or keep it running. It would be in your owner's manual if you have one, otherwise maybe someone else here can tell you which way is which , or just try it the other way . After starting in the manual position if desired, that lever has to be returned to the normal run position for proper running. If you figure it out make sure you clearly label it for run or manual choke position. If that doesn't work here are some other suggestions: If you pump and pump the bulb and it never firms up with engine off (and fuel is not running out of the throttle body) , the usual problems are Bad bulb with missing or not closing valve flap, or cracked bulb Air getting into the fuel line before the bulb, from bad external filter/separator seal, loose hose or tank connection, cracked or dropped off tank pickup tube. Air getting into the tank from the sender gasket deformation would not cause this since the tank has to be vented anyway, but it's obviously a dangerous situation since if air could get in there, gas and fumes can get out in the boat. Fix it. While air or bad bulb is more likely, it could be an a fuel restriction upstream of the bulb but that would usually cause the bulb to stay squished. If fuel was running out the air intakes I'd think either stuck open float. Higher running rpms while pumping sound more like bad fuel pump. Edit: I just checked an old manual for a '87 225 Johnson that had the manaul override valve on the primer solenoid. FWIW, it shows manual start position os counter clockwise and run position is clockwise on that lever. Also I forgot to mention that valve lever and schraeder valve you released fuel from are used when injecting engine tuner(cleaner) and possibly when fogging with pressurized cannisters and a hose with connector for the schraeder.
  8. As others have mentioned, are you holding it near a window on the S side of the plane toward most of the satellites? If airliners had csnvas tops reception would better though other comforts might suffer just a bit.
  9. I certainly understand. Just replacing carbed blue 5.7's with 5.7 MPI's & new higher hp rated transmissions requiring slightly shorter length shafts, new shaft seals & different pitch props on a 27'er ran me just shy of $40k in 2003, more than the boat is worth but I enjoy the new MPI engines a lot more just the same. I have to of course. If I had known it was going to cost that much more than the yard's estimate I might not have done it, but in retrospect I'm really glad I did when using the boat 3-400 hrs a yr in the NE. Certainly not saying this would necessarily be the best choice for you or trying to bend your arm, just throwing out another perspective to factor in (or out). FWIW, even with same trans ratio and 2" LESS pitch (to reach the proper spec'd higher WOT,) the boat with now 120 total add'l hp, has the same NMPG or slightly better at about 400 higher easy cruise RPM and 2-5kts better cruise speed .(That's still less than Crusader's recommended 75% WOT cruise.) With MEFI-4 , I can access loads of ECM data with Diacom, Tech Mate and the B& G Net-Engine display, even how many hours& tenths total the engines have ever been run at each successively higher 100rpm increment, and calculated present fuel flow. I also like the idea that the MPI engines are more likely to best adapt to any gasahol quality irregularities with least risk to the engine because of their sensors which the ECM uses to decide to instantly adjust ignition, fuel and rpm. Wish I had the new ones with MEFI-5 & Sync & Cruz, though I have installed very nice Accusync on mine. Whatever you end up with, get back out there soon and enjoy the water!
  10. Re; new 8.1's. If you plan to keep the boat for a good while, the reliability , increased power and cruise speed with better economy, and satisfaction of being able to continually access engine data & diagnostics on the new MPI engines can be worth a lot more than resale value concerns to some owners.The new Crusaders have MEFI 5 ignitions with increased data output and can have electronic Sync&Cruz with engine sync, 1 lever throttle to control both engines,and throttle incremental cruise or troll)control. Rebuilds, especially for more power, can be iffy propositions according to so many reports on forums like this. That rebuild warranty certainly sounds better than for new ones, but what does it really cover and how many have had true satisfaction with multiple claims under rebuild warranties? Maybe you'll be lucky. Down side of the new engines is I think they may have catalytic converters and who knows whether they add any restriction or excess heat or how long they will typically last before need for expensive replacement in marine application. . (Not sure about 8.1's having the converters yet. The 2009 lineup showed the 6.0's with all in 1 ex manifold, cat converter & and riser 7 it looked like a pricey part, but no converter shown on the 2009 8.1's. 2010's not shown yet.)
  11. Here's the yes/no airline list from 2009. Note that there may be exceptions made by pilots/crews on both sides of the list. http://gpsinformation.net/airgps/airgps.htm It certainly is interesting to see info on altitude and speed, what you are flying over and what estimated time of arrival could be.
  12. I was under the impression it just was made available so there may not be many using it as yet. I looked at it at the NE Boatshow and neither I nor the electronics tech could figure out any way to pick out any individual AIS transponding vessel icon on that little screen and access it's relevant data. The manual had nothing about that in it. It appeared to the tech & me that the benefit of the Matrix AIS radio is the fact that VHF & (receive-only) AIS system would only require total 1 VHF antenna, whereas apparently most add-on AIS systems require their own separate VHF antenna .It's possible that only applies to 2way transponding systems though, not sure. Since most brand new better-quality chartplotters can display AIS (when interfaced with proper AIS equipment, presumably the input from the Matrix AIS radio would allow full access to the data to be displayed on the chartplotter. Older chartplotters would not work if they can't accept the necessary AIS NMEA sentence(s). That radio does have fog horn and PA/intercom output features also, I believe.
  13. Tough to generate great confidence in a company called Fulemedic.
  14. Whiteowl - I do remember tuning in that big old Loran A with it's CRT scope-screen and cranky tuning systems. My 1st Loran C was a huge improvement- it was a single line ~1977 Texas Instrument TI9000 product that would sequentually display the GRI 9960 master and each W,X,Y & Z -secondaries if it received them, so if I worked fast I could copy those numbers and plot them on the paper chart and correct my course accordingly - amazing magic! http://jproc.ca/hyperbolic/loran_c_rcvr.html With the advent of GPS and subsequent elimination of Selective Availability and addition of Differential and WAAS corrections and excellent multifunction, overlaying, wx-displaying chartplotters , I don't miss LORAN a bit. Don't look back, you'll turn to salt!!
  15. Mike- Since they are unused, perhaps FloScan might give you partial credit in trade for a spare set of the newer #20B alcohol-compatible sensors?
  16. None taken, I am very mechanically inclined. I am mainly into electronics, but have done some small automotive work. At work (TV Repair) I can take light engines, and even VCR mechanisms completely apart and put them back together again. I know this is nothing like an o/b motor, but I am up for the challenge. I always love learning new things, and if I do not know how to do something or the answer to a question I will always find out. It may end up that I do not fix this motor, but I would sure love to give it a try. Thanks to all for the suggestions so far, if anyone else has any more please feel free to share! David Sounds like a darn good attitude!
  17. If you use Google to search " Evinrude E140TRLCNB repair manual ", the 1st return and several others will give links to purchase the manual. The 2nd return is this post of yours, and the 4th goes to a list of parts diagrams for that motor that you can open and view , including piston and cylinder & related part views. The engine is listed as a 1982 model. I'd guess at least some parts may be hard to come by on a 28 yr old OMC O/B. Here's another one farther down, same thing: http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/5527.cfm Ken Cook has a lot of manuals for older engines : http://www.outboardbooks.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=models.main&year=1982&ID=181433 No offense, but if you aren't sure how to perform a compression test, dismantling that motor yourself may not be the best move and it may be better to try to sell for parts or consult a OMC/Bomba tech. Still good to perform the compression test, though , with throttle wide open on an OFF warm engine, all plugs removed. On the other hand , if you feel it's not sellable as a running motor now , you may have little to lose and could get a good learning experience out of O/B surgery.
  18. "What if boat has no name?"- Then just give the length, make and type of vessel followed by "no name" & follow the rest of the procedure. Or give a name you may call the boat even if it is not applied to the hull, so the reponding station has something to call the party in distress. I believe in real life, "pan-pan,etc." is rarely used by individuals though it is allowed. Just hail the "USCG" on 16 and add the local Group if you know it ( and should) ,or if no response, hail "Any Station" (repeated 3x) and briefly state the vessel name, location (L/L) , # POB's & nature of your distress. Please note: Even though you should initiate on 16, with any hail it is always a VERY helpful move to state "on channel (XX)" since other boaters radios may be scanning and not see the display in time to confirm 16 or other channel that panicked boaters may transmit on. Assuming it warranted it, the USCG would then transmit a Pan-pan on a "hello all stations" relating the pertinent info of your distress hail they rec'd. and/or otherwise help arrange assistance. If not life threatening, the CG would advise mariners to switch from 16 to ch 22 to receive details of a Pan-pan including time of initial report and station that rec'd it..
  19. http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/pls/webpls/cgv_pkg.vessel_id_list?vessel_id_in=691700
  20. Certainly is a shame to see that. In about the 11th frame down, it looks like there is a P.I.W., but on 2nd glance it's obviously the dark fender whose lines had melted off. Wonder how long it would have taken the possible 542(?) gals or so of diesel to burn off if set ashore with no hose down? Wiley, was there a flowing slick after the flames were finally extinguished?
  21. " I am going to install a bow rail and it will be painted white to reduce the glare from lights at night ..." I'll suggest nothing will reflect light more than a white rail, black the least and SS in between on the low side.
  22. Look at the distributor and check the firing order clockwise from the cyl # 1 position, look at the firing order cast on the had or block, or open up the RW pump and check which way the impeller vanes bend to determine engine rotation. Ignore the propeller-it tells you nothing about engine rotation if you don't know whether the transmission is same or reverse output. Don't know about Mercs but FWIW the Model # on Crusaders includes codes for year, engine rotation, transmission type & ratio and more. Another clue on Crusaders is the Std/LH engines have newer type smaller starter with no nose cover/ Counter-rotating /RH engines have old-type larger starter with nose gear cover- again, don't know if Merc does this also. The standard "LH' engine rotates counterclockwise as viewed from the flywheel end toward the pulley end. RH is clockwise. Write rotation of engines and transmission on them & in your logbook to avoid future confusion. Never heard of anybody replacing a RW manifold (without casting defect) at 2 yrs ( normally 3-5+yrs for RWC ex. manifolds & risers ?) , but I'd certainly expect you wouldn't want to put 18 yr old ex. manifolds on a replacement block even if FW cooled, though FWC manifold might still be OK. Personally I wouldn't take the risk of replacing with a reman block either. Many have good luck with them but there have been so many reports of $ problems. Suggest considering new long block or new complete FWC engine .
  23. I believe the foam cut away for the tank custom fit will be considerably more porous with the surface skin removed unless those surfaces are somehow carefully completely resealed. It looks like you are doing a great job and I applaud the care to allow drainage under the tanks, but I too have some inexpert concern about the foam . If any foam is supporting the tank underneath , consider also it will eventually crush to some degree.
  24. Is that an albino flying squirrel?? Can they tread water? I sure hope it doesn't land on the head of the girl with the pink PFD. Boy would she be even more surprised.
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