pmagrady

Hi

The one thing that Interstate does not include in their specs is the Reserve Capacity. If you intend to use this as the starting battery you should find out if the battery has the minimum reserve capacity recommended by your outboard manufacturer. For instance Yamaha's minimum RC is 182 minutes. There are no group 24 batteries I know of that meet that. In fact, there aren't many group 27s that meet that. Deka designed a battery to Yamaha specs when Yamaha came out with their HPDIs and 4 strokes. Read your outboard maker's manual and look for a battery that meets their requirements. I like having a dedicated starting battery and a separate deep cycle battery for my electronics. Old school wet cell batteries work for me. I have never had one explode. I do have to add water, but that's not much work on my part.

Nice pics! I did that for six years. I could guarantee that my guests would be taking home some salmon from May through October. I was a great easy fishery! Alaska is prettier though.

They found her alive and well.

Wow, looks great. Yes, post more pics!

I did not mount my EPERB. I have it in my ditch bag. That way it's with me if we have to get wet. I take the ditch bag off the boat at the end of the day so no one can take the bugger.

Great story

Yep, that's the way to do it.

Great day!

I boat in that area. A no wake boundary begins right at the CG Station. The water in that location is usually calm with a bit of current; certainly not dangerous. I wonder if the smaller boat was running at no wake speed and the big boat had not slowed. I guess we will find out at some point.

I just tried Star Bright's ("wax") polymer yesterday. It want on and wiped off like a dream. I have used Rejex fir a few years, but I was not able to buy Rejex in time to do the hull while I had it out of the water. I picked up the Star Bright product and I am happy I did. I'll report back in six months to let you know if it hold up.

Awesome looking boat. If someone were to describe it as bullet proof, they would not be exaggerating.

For the stains tru Tuf Enuf. Great stuff! Here's a link

Wiley, I assume you use them during power outages after storms. Do you run them together or as separate united. What appliances can you run while the power is out. I have an old contractors generator that would heat my hot water, then after turning the water heater off, I could run the fridge. The contractors generator is loud, so I am considering the Honda. I "hear" they are quiet.

I like that little Talica. I have read good reviews from our California brothers.

Here’s some boat cleaning and waxing real world methods that are working for me. Until I read an article in Power-Boat Reports I only thought that I knew how to wax a boat. The article was written by a sailor who described his cleaning and waxing process following a prolonged trip. It was about a two page read, so I will give the abridged version here. You are going to need: Variable speed power buffer with pads Boat soap. He suggested Simple Green, but I used Orpine. Vinegar. The clear stuff. I picked up 2 gallons for about $2 3M Finesse-It II Rejex (he suggested the Collinite paste) FSR (removes stains or if your hull is yellowing, it cleans that off) If you boat is bigger than you can do in one day, pick a section that you will be able to finish the whole process in a day. You don’t want to strip off the old wax and leave it sitting bare for a long time. The sun and dirt will kill it with out wax. First, wash the area with the soap and rinse. They wash it again with the vinegar. The vinegar removes any salt left behind. Rinse the vinegar off and wash and rinse again with boat soap. If your hull has stains, use the FSR, following the directions. Now you are ready to polish the boat with the Finesse-IT II. I am assuming that your boat’s finish is not badly oxidized. If it is, start with rubbing compound and then do it again with the Finesse-It II. The Finesse-IT II has instructions for machine application and hand application. Obviously, using the buffer is faster and easier. You will have to apply this by hand in small areas that the buffer will not reach. Finesse-It II is what’s going to make the glass shine, not the wax. The wax is put on to protect the shine after polishing. If you have not used this before, you will be pleasantly surprised at how good your glass looks. Finally, apply the wax by hand. Rejex is very easy to apply and remove, especially since you are applying this on a clean surface.

The reason for using the earmuffs to flush/run is that enough water does not get to the impeller when you use the flush attachment. If you run the motor while using just the flushing attachment you can be running the impeller while dry. You might also over heat.

ditto

No problem...... This behavior keep the gene pool clean.

I have been running YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR H/T-S tires for 2 years. My mechanic recommended them instead of the Michelins I thought I wanted. He said they were a bit less $$$ and they would perform as well as the Michelins. He was right. They are quite, smooth, and ware well.

Do more than sea trial both styles. I would charter both to get some, pardon the pun, reel world experience on both. I have fished smaller cats and still like the mono hull ride better. Yes, the cats ride softer into a big head sea, but I did not like their ride in a quartering sea. I'm sure these big cats you are considering ride better than the mid size boats I fished. Bigger is always better. Enjoy the hunt and choose the boat that best suits your needs.

Thank the lord you have a cat. Those seas look bad Nice fish!

Yep, 1/4 up to 1/3 of the line's "test", unless you use braid. Braid's breaking strength is usually higher than mono for most applications. For instance I use 80lb test braid for bottom fishing, but my reel will not give me 26lbs (1/3) of drag. I set that drag for 20lbs.