Livewell Standpipe Project W/pics. Minimum Water Volume For Small Bait Loads?

[Mr. Demeanor]

I have a 50 gallon livewell that is actually about 45gallons due to the height where the two drains were placed. I have converted the drain at the bottom to stand pipe setup so I don't have to carry 360 pounds of water when I am only keeping some shrimp or a few bait fish alive. I have to turn down the shutoff valve on the livewell to reduce flow when using only the one stand pipe but with reduced volume it still looks like a good flow of water.

My livewell is 30" in diameter so with 6" of water I have about a 20 gallon capacity. 4" gives me 13 gallons with some extra aeration as the water will come in above the level in the tank and I would have a quicker turnover. Which would be better?

PS. I will carry a few lengths of PVC for good measure.

[HOTSPOT]

How will you drain the tank, unscrew that plug?

You could add a drain valve below your screen, then maintain the water level with your pump and it would give you the ability to control how often you replace the water.

[rchanner]

Chris- That's a good idea- my livewell holds a bunch more water than I usually need also (the same as yours)

Where is your water inlet? Mine is just below "full"....do you let it spray on the water surface from above when you're running at the lower water level, or did you also pipe that down to the lower level?

[Mr. Demeanor]

To drain it I unscrew that little pipe plug. I was going to add a shutoff valve for draining inside the tank but it would stick out and just one more thing to catch the net on. I tried to keep this close to he livewell wall. There is a shutoff for the drain on he outside of the tank.

My water inlet is opposite the drain and about 4" off the bottom. It fills from the bottom up and the water is directed along the wall of the tank so it circles.

The water enters through a fitting that is actually a 90 degree barb fitting. The barbed end sticks into the tank. I have been meaning to get a long length of hose that would fit over that barb fitting in the tank. In the event I woud lose an impeller offshore, I could hook a hose to that barb fitting and use the baitwell pump to supply water to the engine via the flush port on the cowling.

[rchanner]

. In the event I woud lose an impeller offshore, I could hook a hose to that barb fitting and use the baitwell pump to supply water to the engine via the flush port on the cowling.

I always figured that I'd connect the raw water washdown hose to there if that ever happened....Definitely a stroke of genius if you don't have one or it's too far away, though.

[welder]

Use a longer piece of PVC and drill a lower hole and a upper hole then make a sleeve that you can slide up and down the pipe to adjust the low high level.

All the parts stay in the tank .

[ScarabChris]

I have a 20 gal livewell and I can hold 3 dozen pilchards with no problem.

[Snapper Head]

My livewell is 30" in diameter so with 6" of water I have about a 20 gallon capacity. 4" gives me 13 gallons with some extra aeration as the water will come in above the level in the tank and I would have a quicker turnover. Which would be better?

PS. I will carry a few lengths of PVC for good measure.

One consideration for how much water to use would be the impact of sloshing on the mortality of your baits. Less water means greater chance of getting slammed into the side and bottom of the well when the boat is moving around. This is perhaps not so critical in nearshore applications, but for long offshore runs it is.

Big Al

[Mr. Demeanor]

I always figured that I'd connect the raw water washdown hose to there if that ever happened....Definitely a stroke of genius if you don't have one or it's too far away, though.

My washdown has more pressure but the livewell has more volume which is what the engine needs. At full open, I fill that 50 gallon livewell in a few minutes.

[reelapeelin]

Another solution to the supply side: cap a stand pipe above desired water level and cut a downward 45* slice about 1/3 the way thru the pipe just below the cap...this will create a down spray that'll aerate nicely...

Like what you did on the return side...great solution...would adding a rubber "O" ring to the back of the screw-in plug make it any easier?...might not have to tighten as much to seal...