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Evinrude Motor Info Needed


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I am in need of a repair manual for an Evinrude E140TRLCNB motor. This motor is on my 1972 Boston Whaler, and I am trying to repair it, and sell it. The person I purchased the boat from said that it would run, but had a knock to it like a piston was messed up.

Does anyone know where I can get a repair manual from?

Where is a good place to purchase parts from?

Does anyone know what tools are required to do a compression test? Or how to do a compression test on this model?

What are "ideal" compression readings for this motor?

Thanks in advance!

David

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www.boats.net for parts

i would be warry about a knock

Thanks for the advice, I am either going to cheaply (but correctly) fix the motor and sell it, or sell it for scrap. I wouldn't mind learning how to fix an outboard motor. I love fixing things (Except TV's which is what I do daily!!)

David

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On those old Evinrude/Johnsons the knock could be a bad wrist pin or just the way it sounds. Your first test should be a compression test. Its done just like on any engine.

Remove the spark plug and screw in the compression tester. Remove the other plug wires so the engine doesn't try to start. Turn the engine over a few times and look at the gauge on the compression tester. Allow it to sit for a few seconds to determine how long it takes to leak down. It should hold the pressure for a few seconds at least.

Do this on all cylinders, they should all be within 10-15% of each other. Also check the plugs when you pull them. Make sure none are damaged. If you have a damaged plug with a crushed electrode the piston is slapping the plug. That means the engine must be torn down.

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On those old Evinrude/Johnsons the knock could be a bad wrist pin or just the way it sounds. Your first test should be a compression test. Its done just like on any engine.

Remove the spark plug and screw in the compression tester. Remove the other plug wires so the engine doesn't try to start. Turn the engine over a few times and look at the gauge on the compression tester. Allow it to sit for a few seconds to determine how long it takes to leak down. It should hold the pressure for a few seconds at least.

Do this on all cylinders, they should all be within 10-15% of each other. Also check the plugs when you pull them. Make sure none are damaged. If you have a damaged plug with a crushed electrode the piston is slapping the plug. That means the engine must be torn down.

Just any standard compression checker? I saw one at sears for around $30 bucks. Sorry to be so ignorant but I have never messed with a boat motor.

Thanks

David

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If you use Google to search " Evinrude E140TRLCNB repair manual ", the 1st return and several others will give links to purchase the manual. The 2nd return is this post of yours, and the 4th goes to a list of parts diagrams for that motor that you can open and view , including piston and cylinder & related part views.

The engine is listed as a 1982 model. I'd guess at least some parts may be hard to come by on a 28 yr old OMC O/B.

Here's another one farther down, same thing: http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/5527.cfm

Ken Cook has a lot of manuals for older engines :

http://www.outboardbooks.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=models.main&year=1982&ID=181433

No offense, but if you aren't sure how to perform a compression test, dismantling that motor yourself may not be the best move and it may be better to try to sell for parts or consult a OMC/Bomba tech. Still good to perform the compression test, though , with throttle wide open on an OFF warm engine, all plugs removed.

On the other hand , if you feel it's not sellable as a running motor now , you may have little to lose and could get a good learning experience out of O/B surgery.

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No offense, but if you aren't sure how to perform a compression test, dismantling that motor yourself may not be the best move and it may be better to try to sell for parts or consult a OMC/Bomba tech. Still good to perform the compression test, though , with throttle wide open on an OFF warm engine, all plugs removed.

On the other hand , if you feel it's not sellable as a running motor now , you may have little to lose and could get a good learning experience out of O/B surgery.

None taken, I am very mechanically inclined. I am mainly into electronics, but have done some small automotive work. At work (TV Repair) I can take light engines, and even VCR mechanisms completely apart and put them back together again. I know this is nothing like an o/b motor, but I am up for the challenge. I always love learning new things, and if I do not know how to do something or the answer to a question I will always find out.

It may end up that I do not fix this motor, but I would sure love to give it a try.

Thanks to all for the suggestions so far, if anyone else has any more please feel free to share!

David

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On those old Evinrude/Johnsons the knock could be a bad wrist pin or just the way it sounds. Your first test should be a compression test. Its done just like on any engine.

Remove the spark plug and screw in the compression tester. Remove the other plug wires so the engine doesn't try to start. Turn the engine over a few times and look at the gauge on the compression tester. Allow it to sit for a few seconds to determine how long it takes to leak down. It should hold the pressure for a few seconds at least.

Do this on all cylinders, they should all be within 10-15% of each other. Also check the plugs when you pull them. Make sure none are damaged. If you have a damaged plug with a crushed electrode the piston is slapping the plug. That means the engine must be torn down.

Just any standard compression checker? I saw one at sears for around $30 bucks. Sorry to be so ignorant but I have never messed with a boat motor.

Thanks

David

Yes, any automotive compression tester will work. There are only two thread sizes for all spark plugs and the tester should come with adaptors to make it work with any spark plug size.

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No offense, but if you aren't sure how to perform a compression test, dismantling that motor yourself may not be the best move and it may be better to try to sell for parts or consult a OMC/Bomba tech. Still good to perform the compression test, though , with throttle wide open on an OFF warm engine, all plugs removed.

On the other hand , if you feel it's not sellable as a running motor now , you may have little to lose and could get a good learning experience out of O/B surgery.

None taken, I am very mechanically inclined. I am mainly into electronics, but have done some small automotive work. At work (TV Repair) I can take light engines, and even VCR mechanisms completely apart and put them back together again. I know this is nothing like an o/b motor, but I am up for the challenge. I always love learning new things, and if I do not know how to do something or the answer to a question I will always find out.

It may end up that I do not fix this motor, but I would sure love to give it a try.

Thanks to all for the suggestions so far, if anyone else has any more please feel free to share!

David

Sounds like a darn good attitude!

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