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233 formula is now 263 about sort of oh youll see


bly

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I am redoing one of my many 233s and this one took on a mind of its own. The transom was full of water and so was most all the closed cell floatation foam. I am also removing stringers and replacing with penske coosa board which can only absorb less then 2% of its weight in water in the worst situation. I am glassing all penske board with vinylester resin and either biaxial 1708 and some extra 1808 where needed. I built a mold to a bolt on full flotation OB bracket then after I found the transom so bad I cut my bracket apart and you will see in pictures what I did. Also formulas are but ugly in the bow. Too blunt. the 25 sea vee, whitewater, rampones were much better looking and morphed from the 233 hull. So I changed my bow also. its got a pointy prow. The console was old with many holes from previous owners installing what ever would fit. It now has 6 3 headroom with modern electronics storage.or placement. Oh I do my Fuel tank installation according to S&P the manufacturer of fuel tanks for most boat companies around jersey . Also David Pascoe surveyor web page who is very opinionated on fueltank and cored boat bottoms. My fuel tanks have angled aluminum tabs welded on and they will bolt to penske stringers. the tank will set on dense neoprene material{supplied by S&P fuel tanks} the neoprene sits on penske board glassed to stringers and hull. No foam anywhere near tank. Heres the pictures instead of enougher thousand words.

PB210017.jpg

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PB150042-1.jpg

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Wet foam

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Sinking "Flotation" Foam thought this was pretty funny

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PB210016.jpg

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Nice work. That's a BIG project :1947_eating_popcorn_and_drinkin: I'd rather build a boat from scratch than to tackle a rebuild like that, it's a serious commitment.

I'm also a fan and follower of Pascoe, you can't go wrong by following his advise. And if you're going to do that much work and spend that much money, might as well do it right :1992_beer_cheer:

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  • 2 months later...

bly,

Very ambitious project, impressive.

One question however, are you planning on epoxy coating the fuel cells?

No I will take my best shot this way. Fuel tanks go bad mostly two ways. from inside out mostly believe it or not? {from experience of many years and many old boats. That wont happen much nowadays with the alchohol ethanol in gasoline. A bad install is what you are talking about and I am covering all bases there. If you foam a tank in place you better take the pains to first etch the aluminum then and only then epoxy coat it. or atleast coaltar epoxy very thick because one scratch will do it in. Then I set the tank on dedicated tank supports that are glassed to stringers and hull. then the tank has dense neoprene pads that are on the bottom of the tank and isolate it from any non aluminum. No wood or glass touches the tank. next the tank is bolted into dense penske board spacers between the main stringers and the tabs welded on to the tank. using stainless bolts.No wood, fiberglass or FOAM !!!!, like a lot of top name builders still use, will trap water up against my aluminum tank. Then the tank if water does ever get to its surface of condensation from filling the tanks on a warm day from ground cooled storage tank fuel . It will end up in the bilge and pumped overboard not trapped next to the aluminum coroding it like a cancer you cant see. Also aluminum of all the metals does not like to be coated or have anything secondary bonded to it. Except the same type aluminum welded to it. I remember 20รท years ago when I saw ocean yachts aluminum stringer molds and asked if they ever got the stringers stuck in the mold? They said nothing ever sticks permantly to aluminum. So epoxy all the tanks you want and then foam them in also if you want. This is my way and also a noted surveyor david pascoe also is in this ball park on my thinking? sorry for the more then one word answer but I take my boat work very serious and I take no prisoners when it comes to bad boat building?

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