Formula 233 update

[Mike Carrigan]

I believe the foam cut away for the tank custom fit will be considerably more porous with the surface skin removed unless those surfaces are somehow carefully completely resealed. It looks like you are doing a great job and I applaud the care to allow drainage under the tanks, but I too have some inexpert concern about the foam . If any foam is supporting the tank underneath , consider also it will eventually crush to some degree.

BLY published photo's on the other forum of his "233" project.

His fuel tank installation looks to me to be textbook perfect.

His explanation of the tanks installation is right on the money to my belief.

[nitz]

This is the method I used for installing the tank. http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/fuel_tank.htm The water can easily drain down into the bilge as there is a small void under the tank. I did not have tabs welded to the tank b/c w/ foam filled stringers there is nothing to screw them to. I guess I will glass in some fir pieces to hold down the tank. What if I pulled the tank out and glassed the cavity w/ one layer of 1708? Then the tank would be sitting in a fiberglass box. I appreciate all your advice!

Edited November 24, 2009 by nitz

[bly]

This is the method I used for installing the tank. http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/fuel_tank.htm The water can easily drain down into the bilge as there is a small void under the tank. I did not have tabs welded to the tank b/c w/ foam filled stringers there is nothing to screw them to. I guess I will glass in some fir pieces to hold down the tank. What if I pulled the tank out and glassed the cavity w/ one layer of 1708? Then the tank would be sitting in a fiberglass box. I appreciate all your advice!

You should not have to remove tank at this point. Especially if that is pour in foam around tank. You will destroy the protective tank coating. I would at this point just pour small amounts of foam around tank to fill voids that go below tank top. Then I would seal the top very good so no water can accumulate on tank to and work its way between tank and foam, If you put any wood on top of tank to hold down place dense neoprene between tank and material . Rubber and wood hold moisture.

[nitz]

Bly, The tank comes right out. Before pouring the foam I wrapped the tank w/ release film. Then once the foam cured I pulled the tank out and removed the film. The foam is not actually bonded to the tank. The tank is just sitting in a "box" made of foam. I think I'll remove the tank, make the top of the foam level, and glass in the foam w/ one layer of 1708. Then I'll apply some neoprene strips to the bottom of the tank and set it back in place. I'll also put some neoprene strips on the bottom of the fir hold downs. Was there a certain thickness of neoprene that I should use? Thanks, Mark.

[bly]

Bly, The tank comes right out. Before pouring the foam I wrapped the tank w/ release film. Then once the foam cured I pulled the tank out and removed the film. The foam is not actually bonded to the tank. The tank is just sitting in a "box" made of foam. I think I'll remove the tank, make the top of the foam level, and glass in the foam w/ one layer of 1708. Then I'll apply some neoprene strips to the bottom of the tank and set it back in place. I'll also put some neoprene strips on the bottom of the fir hold downs. Was there a certain thickness of neoprene that I should use? Thanks, Mark.

At S&P tanks they have 2 thicknesses. one for tanks under 100 gal and enougher that might be about a 1/4 inch or more for the tanks over a 100 gal. Remember this is all just advice because No one is testing and documenting this. I have taken boats apart that should have coroded the tank 20 years previous and found no problem and others that looked sort of done right and were a mess. I have a question not concerning the tank, Whats the distance between main stringer and Side of hull at chine? It must be 30 in. or more. Are You going to put enouger stringer or a lot of nee or lateral bulkeads or braces?

[nitz]

At S&P tanks they have 2 thicknesses. one for tanks under 100 gal and enougher that might be about a 1/4 inch or more for the tanks over a 100 gal. Remember this is all just advice because No one is testing and documenting this. I have taken boats apart that should have coroded the tank 20 years previous and found no problem and others that looked sort of done right and were a mess. I have a question not concerning the tank, Whats the distance between main stringer and Side of hull at chine? It must be 30 in. or more. Are You going to put enouger stringer or a lot of nee or lateral bulkeads or braces?

I'll call SP and order some neoprene today. The distance between the stringer and the chine is only about 20" (the stringer is wider at the bottom than the top), but I had planned on putting three bulkheads on each side anyway out of the leftover prisma bulkhead material and filling those cavities w/ foam. I appreciate all you guys advice. I work with composites all the time at work (aircraft), but this is my first boat project that is this involved.

[slewit]

I'll call SP and order some neoprene today. The distance between the stringer and the chine is only about 20" (the stringer is wider at the bottom than the top), but I had planned on putting three bulkheads on each side anyway out of the leftover prisma bulkhead material and filling those cavities w/ foam. I appreciate all you guys advice. I work with composites all the time at work (aircraft), but this is my first boat project that is this involved.

Hi Nitz

Great Job on using our Compsys Prisma Preforms for this repair ! Your workmenship looks top knotch. We now also have a new custom stringer product "Prisma TA" this won the IBEX innovation award this year. You can see it on our website at www.preforms.com.

Please let me know how the project turns out and feel free to contact me if you need help.

I have a new deck planking product that I am working on and hope to have it ready for the market soon. I can send you a sample if you want to experiment.

Also would you be OK with us posting this project on our website.

Thank you

Scott

[nitz]

Hi Nitz

Great Job on using our Compsys Prisma Preforms for this repair ! Your workmenship looks top knotch. We now also have a new custom stringer product "Prisma TA" this won the IBEX innovation award this year. You can see it on our website at www.preforms.com.

Please let me know how the project turns out and feel free to contact me if you need help.

I have a new deck planking product that I am working on and hope to have it ready for the market soon. I can send you a sample if you want to experiment.

Also would you be OK with us posting this project on our website.

Thank you

Scott

Scott, That would be fine. I think your products are really easy to use and save a lot of time. Unfortunately, I already have the deck boards laid up out of nidacore. Let me know if you need more pics. Thanks, Mark.

Edited November 25, 2009 by nitz

[bly]

I'll call SP and order some neoprene today. The distance between the stringer and the chine is only about 20" (the stringer is wider at the bottom than the top), but I had planned on putting three bulkheads on each side anyway out of the leftover prisma bulkhead material and filling those cavities w/ foam. I appreciate all you guys advice. I work with composites all the time at work (aircraft), but this is my first boat project that is this involved.

Picture is decieving. Sorry I suggested that. 20 space is fine with the 24 degreee formuls hull. Remember its solid glass and they always lay extra near the chine from the overlap. OMG I cut part of my bow off and I think it was 3/4+ in thick because they overlapped from each side. That prisma looks neat to work with, The coosa penske is a whole nother story. Its more rigid and cuts easier then plywood but wow Its got 2 layers of glass in it and when the small particles get loose they penetrate the skin worse then any glass I have ever worked with.

[nitz]

Finally did some more work on the formula 233