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2000 150 hp johnson


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Thanks Wiley for E-mailing me your new site!! Great group of boaters here and alot of very good experience and advice. I have a 2000 150 hp johnson carbed 2 stroke on a 2000 20ft cc Maycraft.

Problem- I can plan off and run for about 200 to 300 yards at about 3500 RPM and back down to idle the motor will cut off and will not start back up. It will turn over but will not fire up. It will hit a few times but thats it--NO GO! I have had the fuel system replaced and new seperator installed along with a new optical sensor. Carbs rebuilt last year. Stabil is always used. took it out for a test ride--same thing. 200 to 300 yards and shut off and NO GO! Thinking it could be defective power pack. Perhaps as it warms up and resistence increases the spark decreases???? What do you think??? :504_shrugging:

Much appreciated

Rusty

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Thanks Wiley for E-mailing me your new site!! Great group of boaters here and alot of very good experience and advice. I have a 2000 150 hp johnson carbed 2 stroke on a 2000 20ft cc Maycraft.

Problem- I can plan off and run for about 200 to 300 yards at about 3500 RPM and back down to idle the motor will cut off and will not start back up. It will turn over but will not fire up. It will hit a few times but thats it--NO GO! I have had the fuel system replaced and new seperator installed along with a new optical sensor. Carbs rebuilt last year. Stabil is always used. took it out for a test ride--same thing. 200 to 300 yards and shut off and NO GO! Thinking it could be defective power pack. Perhaps as it warms up and resistence increases the spark decreases???? What do you think??? :504_shrugging:

Much appreciated

Rusty

Rusty,

I would suspect the power pack as well. I know someone on his second Ocean Pro and he had to replace the PP in both of his. Maybe try a tester on the PP. You could also try idling for an extended period to see if it replicates the issue.

Good luck... No running = sucks!.

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Does it shut down while you are running or after you back off the throttle?

On my slightly older '70 Johnson, I have 2 sets of coils (stator, I think it is called) under the flywheel. When the motor is cold, it uses one set so the timing is advanced for easier cold starts and when it warms up it uses the other set. Your 150 will be different, but that might be worth a check.

I had a similar problem a year or 2 ago. Sometimes the boat would start and sometimes not. Unfortunately, my case was the motor ran until I shut it off but would sometimes not restart. Turned out to be a problem with the Quickstart portion of the powerpack (I think). I was able to disconnect the yellow/red wire from the thermostat connection coming from the powerpack to fix my problem. That is a 12v line that goes into my powerpack that tells the pack to check the temp at the thermostat. I was able to diagnose it finally by removing the key start leads from the solenoid and pull starting the motor or using an aux. start switch. It took me a year to diagnose the problem because it was intermittent and weird. This fix makes cold starts down here in S FL difficult, a cold weather start would be nearly impossible.

Good luck. Perfectly good motors that run when they want to are maddening.

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Does it shut down while you are running or after you back off the throttle?

On my slightly older '70 Johnson, I have 2 sets of coils (stator, I think it is called) under the flywheel. When the motor is cold, it uses one set so the timing is advanced for easier cold starts and when it warms up it uses the other set. Your 150 will be different, but that might be worth a check.

I had a similar problem a year or 2 ago. Sometimes the boat would start and sometimes not. Unfortunately, my case was the motor ran until I shut it off but would sometimes not restart. Turned out to be a problem with the Quickstart portion of the powerpack (I think). I was able to disconnect the yellow/red wire from the thermostat connection coming from the powerpack to fix my problem. That is a 12v line that goes into my powerpack that tells the pack to check the temp at the thermostat. I was able to diagnose it finally by removing the key start leads from the solenoid and pull starting the motor or using an aux. start switch. It took me a year to diagnose the problem because it was intermittent and weird. This fix makes cold starts down here in S FL difficult, a cold weather start would be nearly impossible.

Good luck. Perfectly good motors that run when they want to are maddening.

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Does it shut down while you are running or after you back off the throttle?

On my slightly older '70 Johnson, I have 2 sets of coils (stator, I think it is called) under the flywheel. When the motor is cold, it uses one set so the timing is advanced for easier cold starts and when it warms up it uses the other set. Your 150 will be different, but that might be worth a check.

I had a similar problem a year or 2 ago. Sometimes the boat would start and sometimes not. Unfortunately, my case was the motor ran until I shut it off but would sometimes not restart. Turned out to be a problem with the Quickstart portion of the powerpack (I think). I was able to disconnect the yellow/red wire from the thermostat connection coming from the powerpack to fix my problem. That is a 12v line that goes into my powerpack that tells the pack to check the temp at the thermostat. I was able to diagnose it finally by removing the key start leads from the solenoid and pull starting the motor or using an aux. start switch. It took me a year to diagnose the problem because it was intermittent and weird. This fix makes cold starts down here in S FL difficult, a cold weather start would be nearly impossible.

Good luck. Perfectly good motors that run when they want to are maddening.

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I don't want to sound like I know more than I do. I am definitely not and expert. This 70 is the first and only outboard I've ever had to lay healing hands on. I know that your 150 is a different beast, but I would still check out the stator and do some other creative trouble shooting before replacing more parts. If you don't have a service manual, you are definitely going to need one to trouble shoot this yourself. Having a mechanic that understands the inner workings of the powerpack and quirks of your motor and is willing to answer questions would be a great help. Just don't try to "fix" more than one thing at a time and you will eventually find the problem.

Get a spark gap tester and check your spark both before and after you have the problem if you can. A manual will tell you how to set your tester and any special considerations for your motor. I assume that you looked over all of your wiring under the cowl and checked for abrasions, corrosion, and cracked insulation.

Something else you could check would be the fuel system. Run the motor like you normally would that causes it to die. Immediately go to the primer bulb and check it. Is it partially deflated? Does the bulb pump up like normal or does it take a lot of extra squeezes to bring the pressure back up. You could be fuel starved from a partially clogged fuel line, weak fuel pump, or an air leak. You can test with a portable fuel tank to decide which side of the quick connect fuel connector the problem is on.

Another place I was able to get a good bit of help from was a forum called iBoats. I did alot of reading there, but I'm afraid that my problem stumped those folks. Of course it also stumped me and my local Johnson guru as well so I don't count it against them. I was able to find plenty of things to check for ruling out problems.

Just remember, you need 3 things to make an engine run: fuel, air, and spark. Now you just have to figure out which you are loosing and why.

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