OB Winterization

[one4water]

first add a stabil or startron

top off tank

run engine with muffs on to normal tempature or at least 5 minutes so additive gets thru the lines

fog the motor

shut off motor and water

remove spark plugs, spray in fogging oil, put plugs back

drain lower unit

refill lower unit, usenew gaskets on the screws

spray entire motor w/wd 40 or similiar product

cover engine w/ towel put cowling back on

make sure engine is down so all the water drains out

shut off fuel

remove fuel and water seperator filter, install new one

wait for spring

So what is the thought behind covering with a towell? Wouldn' t that just hold moisture if/when it gets damp out?

[v70cat]

I would get new o rings for the lower unit plug, where you able to get the plug out?

Edited October 13, 2009 by v70cat

[Emily Rose]

I dd order O rings and a new plug. It is dark when I get home so I was going pick up an impact tool and try again this weekend.

[Lprizman]

So what is the thought behind covering with a towell? Wouldn' t that just hold moisture if/when it gets damp out?

it draws it away from the engine,,,at least that's what this old timer told and have been doing ever since...could be bull,,but my motor is rust free and use in salt water only,,go figure

[Emily Rose]

The impact driver worked great. I took a couple of dozen wacks at it but it worked. Thanks Guys.

Unfortunately, there was a little bit of water in with the oil, I'd say about 90% water and 10% oil. What is the more likely culprit, the water pickup on the sides of the lower unit or the seal at the prop?

Thanks,

Dave

[wilde1j]

The impact driver worked great. I took a couple of dozen wacks at it but it worked. Thanks Guys.

Unfortunately, there was a little bit of water in with the oil, I'd say about 90% water and 10% oil. What is the more likely culprit, the water pickup on the sides of the lower unit or the seal at the prop?

Thanks,

Dave

Four possibilities:

a) Prop shaft seal(s)

Drive shaft seal

c) Shift rod seal

d) Drain/fill gaskets

The water pickup deal has nothing at all to do with it. To find which are the culprits:

I made an adapter that threads into the drain hole, has a Schraeder valve and a tubing connection (to put a pressure/vacuum gauge on). I use a compressor for pressure and a MityVac for vacuum.

General testing procedure:

a) drain gear oil (it will mask leaks if left in) - You've already done this

pressurize (no more than 15 psig for v4/v6 LU's, less for smaller motors ... consult OEM shop manual. Higher pressures will blow out seals! You don't have to worry about vacuum ... it's OK to go to 30" Hg vac (that's equal to ~ -15psig) ... you just can't pull enough vacuum to do any harm to seals and 30"Hg is the max possible. For vacuum testing, I remove the valve core temporarily.

c) v4/v6 LU's should hold some pressure or vacuum for at least 45 minutes, smaller motors somewhat less time.

d) If leakage is found, submerge in water and look for bubbles for leak source

e) After repair, repeat pressure test (as a minimum) to verify repair.

For prop shaft or driveshaft seal replacement, if shaft is grooved where seal lip was, make sure to install new seal slightly offset to avoid any shaft grooving.

Edited October 24, 2009 by WildeOne