OB Winterization

[Emily Rose]

I thought I'd try to winterize the 93 Johnson 90hp on my son's 17' Montauk. The mechaninc always winterizes my boat.

My question is, should I pump antifreeze in through the muffs or will all the water drain if I leave the engine down? I live in Mass and it will get cold up here come January.

Also, any other tips or proceedures would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

[wilde1j]

No antifreeze needed ... just store with motor vertical.

[Lprizman]

first add a stabil or startron

top off tank

run engine with muffs on to normal tempature or at least 5 minutes so additive gets thru the lines

fog the motor

shut off motor and water

remove spark plugs, spray in fogging oil, put plugs back

drain lower unit

refill lower unit, usenew gaskets on the screws

spray entire motor w/wd 40 or similiar product

cover engine w/ towel put cowling back on

make sure engine is down so all the water drains out

shut off fuel

remove fuel and water seperator filter, install new one

wait for spring

Edited October 7, 2009 by Lprizman

[Emily Rose]

Looks like I should bring back the antifreeze winterizing kit and buy some startron and a new fuel separator.

Thanks Guys.

[Lprizman]

I would,,seems like a waste of money,,for the kit anyway

You can still do it after running water thru by using a barrel or large bucket

[v70cat]

If you fog the engine through the carb, really no need to spray oil down the cylinders.

first add a stabil or startron

top off tank

run engine with muffs on to normal tempature or at least 5 minutes so additive gets thru the lines

fog the motor

shut off motor and water

remove spark plugs, spray in fogging oil, put plugs back

drain lower unit

refill lower unit, usenew gaskets on the screws

spray entire motor w/wd 40 or similiar product

cover engine w/ towel put cowling back on

make sure engine is down so all the water drains out

shut off fuel

remove fuel and water seperator filter, install new one

wait for spring

[Emily Rose]

Everyting went well until I tried to remove he bottom screw for the gear oil. I can't get it to turn even with using vise-grips on the screwdriver. There is just enough rounding on the edge of the slot to pop out the screwdriver tip.

Anybody got any thoughts on how I can remove the screw?

Thanks.

[CudjoeDon]

1. Penetrating oil, then very gently tap the screw with non-marking hammer, mallet, whatever -- just to vibrate the area and flex the o-ring to allow more lubricant deeper inside.

2. Next level of seriousness: heat. Start with blow-dryer or heat gun, not as reliable since the aluminum often expands first. But if it doesn't work while still hot, let cool since the expansion-then-contraction does work.

3. Cooling. If you have a store that sells dry ice, cooling can work. But you have to be very careful both for you and for the finish working with dry ice.

CudjoeDon

[wilde1j]

Easy, get an impact tool that rotates a bit when struck with a hammer and make sure it's set to turn in the correct direction. I got one from Sears many years ago and it always works (unless you let the slot get really screwed up). Forget oil, heat, etc. These impact drivers are cheap (under $20) and always work and don't screw up the plug head.

Edited October 12, 2009 by WildeOne

[Cracker Larry]

Another in favor the impact driver.

You might try a large screwdriver with a square shank, put it in the slot and give it a few good hammer bolws, then put a large adjustable wrench on the shank. Get one person to push ###### the screwdriver while the other turns the wrench.

One more thought about draining that I didn't see mentioned. After you have flushed it out, let it sit a few minutes. Then tilt the engine up for a few minutes and back down. You'll see more water drain out. Cycle it up and down a few times until it quits.