mystery question: water pump/impeller change

[wilde1j]

Quick comment ... if you use anti-seize, be sure it's not copper based or you will destroy the tapped areas. Also, I've used non-hardening Permtex (the black gooey stuff) on all fasteners, including the water pump cap screws. Do NOT use black RTV, however. Been doing this for over 50 years and never a problem dropping a LU or repairing a water pump.

[MDT]

Interesting how many different angles there are to this problem. I use contact cement at strategic points on the bell and O-ring. I have done this ~3 times on my 10 yr old Yami F115s. It is just enough to hold the O-ring in place until you can clamp the bell in place. My approach has been successful but it is the principle that makes the difference.

MDT

[mandyp]

I replaced my impellers on my 2-02 250 sws after 250 hour, I didn't want to spend the $1200 the mechanics have been charging me for the last two years, to my supprise i could barely tell them apart from the new ones. I replaced the wp housing and bottom plate that had never been changed. I also did the entire 100 hr service including all 4 thermostats, I don't plan on paying for this service any longer. I spent a tototal of $320 on parts and it took me about 5 hours for both engines.

Oh I forgot to say, My boat is in the water, there was an additional charge of $275 to pull it out, This time I just borrowed a trailer. Saving like this I will be able to justify buying a trailer in no time.