Cracker Larry

That sure sounds like water, maybe you got some bad gas from Walmart? I would separate the water from the gas and taste the water. Is it salt or fresh? If salt, it's probably getting in through the vent fitting. If fresh, then rain or washdown water. I think it's highly unlikely that the sending unit gasket could allow gallons of water in the tank. If the gasket was that bad, it would be leaking fuel. Same for a crack in the top. The vent fitting is the most likely source, as mentioned above. Testing the tank is fairly easy. Remove the fill and vent lines from the hull fittings, not the tank, plug them with a tapered wooden plug and a hose clamp. Connect a small compressor or hand pump to the fuel feed line and pressurize the entire system to 4 psi. It should hold 4 psi for 24 hours, but a leak of the magnitude that you speak of should be instantly apparent when you pressurize the system. No, the answer is to stop the water from getting in

Not as nice or useless as your reply. I didn't see any constructive advice in that I've worked on many of these boats. 115 hp brand new, 22 foot boat, nope it won't plane with more than 2 people in it and they better both be on the bow. Just pointing out that it is seriously underpowered, even when new, and not to expect too much.

If the hub was spun it would be over reving, not under reving It should turn up about 3600 in the water, so it's either got the wrong prop, or some engine issues. IIRC those engines had a lot of trouble with timing belts. Good luck at the shop

What kind of RPMs are you getting wide open?

Hull could be full of water too. Have you pulled all the drain plugs? If it has a 4 cylinder, that boat has never got on a plane

I'll take one Rick, been wanting to try a Cabo. PM sent to you.

Not sure where you are located, but here in GA chances are 99% it's a dirt dauber nest inside the tube. They crawl in the little hole and build a mud nest, sometimes all the way up in the thermostat housing. Remove the hose and use a stiff piece of wire to clean it out. It happens so often here that I keep a piece of wire in the tool box. I also try to remember to cover the hole with a piece of tape when the boat isn't being used.

This one is good http://www.weather.gov/

3. Degrease them good and spray them with a cold galvanized coating. ZRC, Rustoleum and others make a good product. It's similar to paint but chemically more like the zinc galvanize, and a silver or gray color. Google cold galvanize http://www.clearcoproducts.com/cold_galvanize_sprays.html http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36

Primer bulbs are notorious for that. I'd replace it first. Also, if the fuel fitting to the engine is a snap on type with an O ring seal, that is also a likely culprit. What he said

Beautiful photography Rick, as usual That first pic is amazing! The rest aren't bad either

I've tried roll and tip with quite a few paints, and haven't found anything that rolls and tips as good as Sterling, at least for me. If applied properly it will produce a finish equal to the best spray job. It's all I'm using from now on. Really good stuff, it produces a mirror finish. Let me find a couple of pics for example.. This is just one coat of Sterling, over System 3 high build yacht primer. You need to use a good primer to get a good finish. I like S3 the best. I also agree about the Kiwi Grip. I've used a lot of non-skid products, nothing is as easy to apply, or gives as good results as Kiwi Grip.

Drill the hole out a little over sized, then fill the hole with epoxy resin thickened with wood flour. Let it cure good, then drill a small pilot hole for the screw. Put a dab of 5200 on the screw threads when installing.

Looks good Rick. The home page loads fast, instantly, nice pics and references

Sure, here ya go http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/specifications.html or http://www.whalercentral.com/userphotogallery.php If you can't find your model there, call BW customer service dept.

I am a surveyor Sure we can tell if water is in there, but the only way we can tell how much is to weigh the boat, or take out the deck. There ain't no magic wands

It's also non- tilt/trim if I remember correctly. A no-frills 50.

duplicate, deleted

I live in rural GA, and have one neighbor who got a DUI mowing his grass, in his yard, on a riding mower. And ended up getting tased I have another neighbor who got a DUI plowing his own field with his tractor Even so, in GA it is legal to have open drinks in the boat, in motion or anchored, as long as the operator is not legally impaired, .08. That ain't much, 2 beers, or one good mixed drink. I also know (from experience) that it is against the law to even have alcohol on the boat, period, in a Federal Wildlife Refuge, such as the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge. Which occupies about 17 miles of the Savannah River in GA and SC.

I agree with Rusty. In many areas the local fire dept will help you with that too. You've also got a disposal issue they can help you with.

In today's market, my guess, sight unseen, assuming decent condition, probably $600-$800.

Yep, bunks are much easier on the boat hull. Rollers down the center line and bunks under the stringers is by far the best for the hull. Pressure treated 2X bunks will outlast most production boat hulls.

I don't know of an engine made that can create more HP at the prop than at the power head. There is nothing in a gear case that will increase HP I'd buy a Yamaha

Not sure under which topic to post this, so we'll stick it here. Have yall seen this article from ESPN today ? Do you want to continue to fish ? Please vote!

Just wanted to let the forum know that Tim didn't ignore my question, he replied to me in a private email