Cracker Larry

I don't know that boat, but it's almost certainly a ground bond. Does it look factory, or added on? It could possibly have been for a SSB or Ham radio ground. If you have an ohm meter, try reading continuity between it and the boats grounding system, or an engine block or negative battery terminal. http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/dynaplate-ground-standard-6-x-2-x-1-2-116559-/4,5483.html

I love it, thanks

Try white vinegar

Great report, thanks

That's a fact!

Very nice. Thanks for sharing. I've got some Shimano 2 speed TLDs that need professional attention, do you service those also? If so, I'll send you some work. Edit: This question was answered in a PM and my reels are going to Alan

Why not use a real chart plotter? I did come across this a couple of days ago, you might be interested... http://marine.geogarage.com/mobile

Who told you that BS?

Middle Grounds, Gulf of Mexico

You can test the thermostats in a pot of hot water with a thermometer. I've never know a thermostat to cause a weak water stream.

If a pro can do it, you probably can too I'd first try using the old hose to pull the new one. Connect them end to end with a hose barb splice fitting Lubricate the hose, I usually use Armor-All. Have one person pulling while one person pushes. If this doesn't work, run a stiff piece of wire through the chase, tape it to the hose for about 12" and use it to pull it through. Again, one person pushing, one pulling. If that doesn't work, you're probably screwed

That was great

That is a very cool pic But did you also know that dolphin probably has a name, rank and serial number, and is probably a member of the sub's crew? I'm not kidding, look it up The Navy has been training and using both dolphins and sea lions for sub support, since at least 1970. I recently met a couple of dolphin trainers at Kings Bay and they told some amazing stories of what they are doing now with them.

No, not much size to them at all. 5-10 pounds. What they lack in size, they made up for in quantity Thousands of them in big schools. I've never seen so many. Just run out to about 180' and look for birds. We picked up 2 gaffers in 700', but it was mostly dead in deep water. Not worth the ride. Too hot I think, but I'm sure not an expert on Keys fishing.

Yes, like 250 said, it uses the top of the transom for alignment, and it has 2 index marks to align with the center line on the boat. Here is a pic of mine so you don't have to visualize.. It is not unusual for production builders to put the cap on cattywhompus (that's a technical word ) which throws off the jig alignment with the transom center.

Just returned from 2 weeks in Cudjoe Key. We found tons of school dolphin in 200-300' of water and plenty of yellowtail snaps in 100' just off the reef. Bigger dolphin and some sailfish in 700 feet.

Very simple, measure the transom. If it is 20-21" high, it uses a 20" shaft, if it's 25-26" it uses a 25" shaft.

I'm late to this party, but I agree with 250. Any decent dealer should be able to handle this, and any decent dealer will have a metal transom drilling template. Engines over about 40 hp have used standard mounting pattern for years. It was probably caused by a crooked deck cap, but rather than un-deck the boat, you could shim the low side under the template. If it were mine, I'd want the deck fixed too. No excuse for shoddy work like that.

No offense, but I think the problem is that most use fish finders that cost a little more Heck, most good transducers cost that much. But in that price range, you'd be better off with a high end gray scale unit, rather than a low end color unit. Even some of the gray scale machines will top $250. I've never been a fan of Eagle, but Humminbird and Lowrance make good units. The new gray scale machines have great definition and readability. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10200066____SearchResults

I vote with VeroWing and MechDave too

Skunked, in his picture he indicated that his boat backed to starboard. Not unusual, so did some of mine, although I agree that most inboards do back to port.

That will work for docking bow in. Just tie it off, at the above mentioned pre-measured length leave the engine idling in forward gear and right rudder while you leisurely tie the other lines. The problem with that method is you are relying on the spring line to stop the boat and reverse won't help you. That only makes it a little trickier. I'd still go for a bow out docking, because you will have more control in that direction. The torque and wind are both more in your favor. I'd approach the dock pointing straight on, in the same direction as your boat pictured, but slightly upwind of it. About 2-3 boat lengths from the dock, pointing straight at it, turn the wheel hard left, give just a short burst of power then shift to neutral. The boat will continue the turn with momentum. When it runs out, shift into reverse a few seconds then back to neutral. By bumping between forward, neutral and reverse, you can work the stern right around the bow, as long as you are making a port turn. By bumping into forward gear, the stern will move to port before forward way is made. In reverse it will move starboard, and probably continue to do so no matter where you put the helm. Just by shifting gears you can make the stern move in the direction you want. The helm won't matter much in reverse. In most boats the wind will blow the bow around, torque will pull the stern around and if you timed the wind right you'll come up alongside the dock facing out It will always be awkward approaching a dock to port with a boat that backs to starboard. It's really easier to spin the boat to port and back her into that spot FWIW I ran single engine charter boats for a long time. Exactly! If you're going to hit something, hit it going REAL slow If you're real new to it, set up some buoys, milk jugs and a weight, to represent your dock, out in open water where you can't hurt anything. Align the imaginary dock with wind and current conditions duplicating yours. Spend a day approaching it from every direction and practice each one. You'll learn quick what the boat will do and what she won't.

You don't mention a current, so I'll assume none? Try rigging the spring from the amidship boat cleat to the end cleat of the dock, the one nearest your transom. Right rudder will bring the stern in to the dock. Better yet, I would put the boat in the slip facing out. You don't show how much room you have, but given what I see, I'd approach the dock at 90 degrees with the bow into the wind and aiming for the outside corner. Idle speed. When about 1.5 boat lengths away, turn the wheel hard left, give a little power to induce a turn and shift to neutral when the turn starts. Let the momentum of the boat partially complete the turn. The wind on the bow will bleed speed and tend to blow the bow downwind, to port, helping the turn to port. When the turn is 3/4 complete, bump into reverse and use the prop torque to draw the stern to starboard and alongside the dock. Tie a stern line, put her in forward with right rudder and she'll lay alongside. Single inboards takes some practice and fore thought. You can't make her go where physics won't allow, no need to fight it. Learn to use the prop torque to your advantage and don't position yourself where it is a disadvantage. Hope this helps

Why would anyone put a main power fuse in the bilge

Marginally, depending on the size of the Mako Those reels are rated for 30 lb mono and can handle 50. The drag really can't take much more than 50 lb. line. If that's what you got, spool it with 50 lb. braid and good luck