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csvencer

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Posts posted by csvencer

  1. A lot of food for thoight.

    What about the speakers they put on Wakeboarding boats? Not the monster ones just a smaller one that has speakers on both ens of the tube. Just thought of the ease of instaling under the T Top, Heres a idea what it looks like . It is all S/S and no radio box (YET) and only 1.5 inch thick but rock solid. I can run some wires through the uprights so my thought was to install a stereo box up under her and go from there????

    I don't know much about the wakeboard tower speakers except for the fact that they are pricey and will take up a good bit of headroom/visability. If you are going with a electronics box then the easiest thing to do would be to just mount one 6.5" speaker on each side of the box. You can cut the hole easily before you mount the box, install the speakers and then just run the wire down to the stereo/amp. With this setup you would have minimal wiring and the two speakers would serve the bow and stern pretty well.

    -Svence

  2. That sounds fishy but I don't know of anyway PayPal has been hacked yet. They may send you to some bogus PayPal site to "login" and setup a request for payment which would just be a hoax site to steal your username and password. Much like they do when you get emails saying you need to verify your account but the link doesn't bring you to paypal.com

    I would think a bank transfer through paypal would be pretty fool proof but I don't know...

    Is it worth the risk???

    -Svence

  3. I think one of the safest things you could do is mount an amp on the inside of the console and then run a headphone jack through the console. You could then get an otter box for your ipod and be completely waterproof. As far as amps go you could get anything from a cheaper poly-planer (they have a setup with the hookup) of go a little more high end and get a clarion or JL.

    MP3 hookup

    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_693IC35PM/Pol...PM.html?tp=1528

    Otterbox

    http://www.otterbox.com/ipod-cases/

    The only downside to this is you lose the radio function as the ipod doesn't have one, but you could also just pickup a cheapo sony walkman type radio if you had to have it.

    This setup puts all the import gear below decks and waterproofs your player.

    -Svence

  4. IMHO the Chesapeake certainly deserves its own board....

    :1143_neener_neener_neener:

    I'm actually trying to move down that way. Looking at Chesapeake or VA Beach.

    We get no love on here, I guess Wiley just wants us to scurry back to tidalfish.com! :504_shrugging: :504_shrugging:

    I have only been in the area for about a year now but am really starting to like it.

    -Svence

  5. You shouldn't put a deep cycle and a starting battery on the same circuit. They are for different purposes and have different charging requirements.

    How are people running deep cycle batteries then when you only have one outboard? I have the Blue Sea add-a-battery kit installed to keep them separated on discharge 99% of the time and the acr for charging them.

    -Svence

  6. Seacast is only really good for transoms that are wet from motor mount bolt holes. If the transom is wet (rotted) to the bottom Seacast does not address properly tying the stringers (may be rotted too) to the transom, so you may NOT address the structural integrity of the boat. If the stringers and the bottom of the transom are sound... go for it. My buddy has an older Robolo 2550 I think (25 cuddy) HEAVY as hell, but nice riding.

    Can you explain this alittle further? Stringers aret physically attached to the wood in the transom, they are glassed in, right? If you pull out all the wood, top to bottom and pour in seacast that should bond with the fiberglass "shell" that is left and the stringers on the bottom creating a solid concrete "plate" with a fiberglass shell.

    Nevermind, just reread your post and I guess what your saying is completely rotten transoms probably have rotten stringers so a new transom is only part of the fix....agreed.

    -Svence

  7. What WMalloy382 said. But I have a 2 1/2 times rule. Whatever your estimate multiply it by 250% and you will be closer to what you will spend by the end of the project. Figure a transom at $4000 plus, then engine, rewiring, batteries, horn, bilge pumps, switches, electronics, etc. We looked at one of these projects but found some amazing deals around. There are some super boats on sale you can buy for 1/3 off and the seller is still happy.

    When you say $4000 for a transom I am assumming you are talking about having someone do it for you, right? I am not sure how the layout of the Robalos are but I have seen a bunch of older wellcraft's done with Seacast or other pourable materials for a heck of a lot cheaper. Can you dig out the old wood in the transom and just pour on the Robalos? That would be a huge money saver.

    -Svence

  8. Been reading through the "Let's talk batteries" thread and it got me thinking.

    I currently have two starting batteries, one used for the engine and one used as house battery. They are hooked via a Bluesea Add-a-battery kit (ACR and switch with off/on/combine) The house battery is dead as it has been being completely drained a couple of times and needs to be replaced. What are my options as far as replacing just the one? I know the rule of thumb is replace all at once but why if the are seperated 95% of the time? Can I replace the house with an AGM/gel battery? I am thinking of just replacing the house with a deep cycle marine house battery but going with a better AGM/gel battery might be better off in the long run.

    -Svence

  9. New response to all questions!

    Q: How do I change my impeller?

    A: Pee on it.

    Q: Which boat is better, Contender or Yellowfin?

    A: Pee on both of them

    Q: My VHF quit working, I think it's my antenna though, how do I check which one?

    A: Pee on the Antenna, then the VHF.

    That should at least keep some brand bashing to a minimum. I like it.

    -Svence

  10. The thing I don't understand, and maybe I am just slow, but how does the MYwedge save your transom? The weight is still being distributed the exact same way, right down the trim ram, just now it is also through the MYwedge. I can see how that saves the hydraulics but not the transom. Does anyone use those extensions from the trailer up to the lower unit? Those seem like they would not only save the hydraulics but also redirect some of the weight into the trailer and off the transom.

    -Svence

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