rakane

I'll stick to what I know, and for the Pacific Northwest waters I'd rather see the regulators focus on what kills up here: mandatory PFD when crossing any bar to the ocean and mandatory VHF carriage and monitoring on #16 when crossing any bar to the ocean. Perhaps the captain of the port can now make a local restriction on bars, but this would save lives as opposed to a full employment regulation for Autotether. But, is Autotether publicly held?

Research on other boards has shown that a product called Perfect Seal is used on the bearing carrier on the install, in case anyone else ever searches for it here.

If you want to comment on the proposed rule making that enables up to a $1,000 fine for failing to use the auto kill lanyard, here is the link. This will hamper coming off the helm for a hot tuna bite. My link

I had some seals in my LF150 start leaking as evidenced by some milk in the lower unit lube, so I took the boat into a shop. They had a devil of a time getting the prop carrier out. They told me it was installed dry. So I'm wondering what a good lube for such a part would be? Would Tefgel be a good application for salt water? After the season I'll pull the other engines lower unit to see what shape that is in.

Hey Tim. Not on topic but I just returned from a trip to San Antonio and Conroe. I have to say I went on my first bass boat trip and it was a kick for a salmon/tuna fisherman to ride in a go fast bass boat and catch my first bass on an impoundment that provides cooling water for a coal powered plant. I'm missing the blue sky. Yesterday it rained so hard in Portland, OR that the street lights turned on, at 3:30. And I had my first visit to Buc-ee's. Now there is some good snacks and the camo caramel corn is a hoot. Take care.

Thanks for posting that. I checked on the small station in Tillamook Oregon and it had correctly listed the location. Very impressive list. Some of the locations such as Pacific Pride are card lock commercial lots so don't absolutely depend on each location.

Not just small boats. Here is a video of a 56 foot commercial boat Double Eagle attempting to cross the bar at Barview (Garibaldi) Oregon. You can see a 47' MLB ride over the approaching wave, and then the vortex as the wave rises and the bottom drops out. The boat was lost but the MLB saved the crew. http://cgvi.uscg.mil/media/main.php?g2_itemId=1016283

We were fishing for albacore and could see both them and huge bait fish schools at 25-50 feet this summer. WE tried everything I could think of but no surface strikes. Other boats were reporting the same on the radio. I tight lined a YoZuri plug and an Archer bar on a diver to get down, but still no luck. Varied the speed to let them dig in a bit more, still no luck. At the end of our day I stopped and grabbed the jig rods and they guys let them fly. I turned off everything to see if that might help. We hooked up two fish right away. A blue shark took half of one fish, but we had cracked the code. Our troll looked as good as anything I'd ever pulled, but they wanted that iron dropped to them. Go figure. There are guys that never troll, just hunt the sounder, and drop iron. No bite in 3-4 minutes, move on. It works for them but I'm still learning this jig stuff.

Hey Tim, isn't that hole at Depoe a rush. There are utubes around that shows a charter going up on the rocks for a moment, what a ride. I've only taken my boat out of Depoe once and it was fine, but it seems SO much smaller when you are going between those rocks. A very good charter captain at Nalu Charters, took me out and showed me the ropes and day markers for helping him dump some halibut carks. Channel 80 to announce in and out, blast the horn right before committing. After having a good explanation the first hole shot went fine, but I still waited for the first boat out as it was still mostly dark. For others here is a camera link that will show the conditions at Depoe Bay, OR. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/pqr/marine/bars_mover.php http://www.trollerslodge.com/oceancam.php

I use mine for dropping jigs to albacore. I like the Avets as they are easy to work on and keep them in shape without too much time. I follow Alan Tani's directions on cleaning reels and they are easy to keep in working order.

Had a great trip at the end of August with some friends out of Garibaldi, Oregon. Here we are having safely made it home, splitting up the catch.

That is a great video. Thanks for posting that.

I was hoping to see more fishing productions, such as the recent sword fishing talk.

Have you caught anything on this set up?

I'd like to try it. I've heard good things but have never tried it.

I'm not much of a poster, but I do post on a forum that is more local to me. this forum seems to be about East coast with a little Gulf in the mix. I like learning what other sections of the country have going on, but when time is short I read the local forum.

Ditto. I have not used it all that much. Hot brauts while fishing on the hook in the Columbia can take some of the boredom out of sitting with no bites. I've never dumped brauts overboard but I can see how that might happen when a big Chinook takes the kwickie.

Thanks for the reply. I found a site that will hopefully meet the need, only an experiment will tell. The site with the product is here http://www.newark.com/switchcraft/en3c3f/circular-connector/dp/66F3118?Ntt=66F3118 I'll post results after the install. I didn't find anything for the kicker power cable so a plain Jane quick connect will do for now, and I realize I'll have to replace it frequently for corrosion issues.

I'm looking for some help in finding a place that can make up two waterproof cable connections for me. #1 quick disconnect for small 18-20 gauge wires, four pins, male to female water proof with protecting caps for when not connected, needing 12" of cable on each end. #2 same thing except for the starting/charging cable on my Yamaha T-8. I want to be able to drop the kicker without running down my Troll Master cable inside the T-8 and the electric T-8 cable. Any help on a retail end, where I can buy the makings or where I can have this made would be appreciated.

Thanks for the link. Good to read about Seadragon and the emergency surgery performed by a mate.

That looks very interesting. I'll be watching for a report later.

Thanks for the tip Capt. I just repaired a cowling that had damage from lifting my engine up, and used Permatex Cold Weld bonding agent. I'm hoping that will adhere OK. Any hints on using Colorite matching spray cans to get the color just right? I'm now attempting to put on a coat of clear coat in the Color rite spray can, and am finding it runs faster than the paint. I may be sanding down with 1500 to do the clear coat over. Obviously I'm trying to save the decals as they are prohibitively priced, ridiculously so. I pity anyone that paints for a living, just wearing the damned mask is hard enough. But I envy anyone with a real painting booth.

Well .. I guess I'm making mooching rigs, I've always called'em stinger rigs. I have some titanium wire left over from my king tourney days .. making a few from it. Nice. I'm heading south to Baja for the first time this summer. Would you mind a few basic questions? What type of connection is under the shrink wrap? Is that a haywire twist with shrink wrap or some very small crimps? I use crimps for our halibut gear up here but nothing ever done with wire, with the exception of an ill fated attempt to catch pike on a fly. That was the only time I've done a haywire. If we are lucky we might stumble into a woo, so I'm interested in different ways to rig wire.

Looks like a good brand. I had a chance to go looking through the wire nightmare for any sign of a Seatalk box, and I don't have one. I think they used a cross over cable and everything else just plugs in to the MFD (besides NMEA). So, I'll save my coin and not install a Smart Heading Sensor just yet. If I come down for Newport's halibut raid, maybe for a few cool ones you could take a look? At times I feel like ripping out all the old wiring and starting over. I did find what I think is a NMEA block, where different devices are attached without the need for triple or quadruple crimps. If I find a skinny 8 year old that does wiring maybe I can reach those tiny wires to trace what device they come from, nothing is labeled!! From the colors on the wires and listing the radio, gladiator and MFD colors maybe I can deduce which device is hooked to which. I'll send a PM.

Looks like a good brand. I had a chance to go looking through the wire nightmare for any sign of a Seatalk box, and I don't have one. I think they used a cross over cable and everything else just plugs in to the MFD (besides NMEA). So, I'll save my coin and not install a Smart Heading Sensor just yet. If I come down for Newport's halibut raid, maybe for a few cool ones you could take a look? At times I feel like ripping out all the old wiring and starting over. I did find what I think is a NMEA block, where different devices are attached without the need for triple or quadruple crimps. If I find a skinny 8 year old that does wiring maybe I can reach those tiny wires to trace what device they come from, nothing is labeled!! From the colors on the wires and listing the radio, gladiator and MFD colors maybe I can deduce which device is hooked to which.