fishamajig

After replacing boards a few times in my 24V Riptide ST trolling motor I was informed by the factory to isolate the motor via a baterry disconnect switch to protect the circuit board. Trying to find the source of the current draw may be a bit tricky on your motor, but it is a non-issue with a battery disconnect switch.

Introduction: 1993 Johnson 200, V-6, "Looper" Ocean Runner, Carbs, 450 Hours Motor dies like it is starved for fuel upon accelerating. Problem is intermittent. Works great one day and not the next, sometimes it will happen in the middle of the day. I suspected air leak in fuel line but can not verify. I have had someone pump the ball to keep it hard when accellerating - no difference. If I nurse it along accellerating slowly it will eventually build up RPM's and sometimes run great all day thereafter. The Facts: Fuel Filter changed 40 hours ago - Racor with clear bowl. I cut the fuel filter open at last change it was like sparkling clean after 100 hours and well after transistion to E-10. OMC in-line filter at motor changed 40 hours ago Drained fuel bowl, no water Gas is fresh, been using lots of it in last few weeks. Boat is used 12 months per year. Motor has been de-carbed, runs "Ring Free" every tank. New Power pack 100 hours ago - OMC Plugs reveal nothing unusual Primer Bulb replaced within 100 hours - OMC VRO disconnected - runs pre-mix Discussion: The part that blows me away is the intermittent issue, that rules out so many different things...One thing I was considering is the that little "switch" that cuts off 1/2 teh cylinders when going from neutral to forward and vice versa. I had replaced that a year or two ago and it seemed to be acting funny as of late cutting the motor off between shifts...how do I check?