paul h

I had a similar problem with my 06 suzuki 140 last year. I have two feed lines to my racor, one from the main tank, and one to a short line w/ quick disconect for portable fuel tanks. I recall telling the suzuki dealer about the setup and he said it might cause problems. Well, sure enough it did. I would run fine at partial throttle, but when I ran the engine up it would fall flat to idle. I'd run back and pump the prime bulb. After doing this a second time I bent over the supplimentary fill line and clamped it with vise grips. Problem soved temporarily. When I got home from that trip I inspected the g/c fitting and the o-ring was cracked, which provided enough of an air-leak to loose my prime. I replaced the q/c and added a s/o valve at the fuel filter/seperator for both fuel supplies. Since that it's been trouble free.

I maintain all my vehicles. It'll take me more time to trailer the boat to the shop and back than to just do it myself.

Dan, Did you leave them with any stock or did you clean them out?

Chris took it out last weekend, you can read about that in the end of this thread http://www.asrealasitgets.net/forums/ubbth....html#Post80205 and Dan and Crhis are planning a 3 day trip this weekend, so I'm thinking they must have gotten the gunk cleaned out. I wanted to head out with them this weekend, but have too many kids activities in town But I should be heading out Friday to see if I can't find a few halibut

Thanks for all the input. From the additional research I've done it looks like I'm best off building a pair of rods and then dialing in exactly what I want. I'm thinking about starting off with a couple of Jaws blanks, a JI7603 and JI7604, fit with Alps triangular rod seats, and going with a spiral/acid guide wrap. I just can't seem to decide on guides as there are so many choices.

I'm thinking of something along the lines of this http://www.seawolfmarine.com/28/index.html But I'd go with twin 300's on the transom

There are basically two reasons people sell an o/b. Either it is nearly shot and isn't worth repairing, or their boat was underpowered and they are upgrading. Obviously avoid the first, and with the second, make sure the engine doesn't have too many hours, as on overloaded engine will wear out faster than a proper sized engine. Thats the route I went with my engine, it was one year old w/ 140 hours on it, basically just broken in, and 80% of what a new one would set me back. To me, the cost and risk of engine failure when in the salt is so much greater than what I'd save with a good engine that I just didn't consider getting a well used o/b.

I don't know if they have an interface module for the Honda, but the lowrance LMF-400 is a neat little gauge that will take fuel flow off the engines cpu w/o the proper wiring harness and the unit and harness can be had for ~$250 (maybe more since I got mine a few years ago). I've found the fuel burn to be pretty much spot on with my suzuki 140. And you can program in a correction factor after you've run a few trips. It installs in a std tachometer cutout, and you just need to run the cabling to your engine, and power to the unit. You do have to set it up to let it know what engine you are using, fuel tank(s) size and then you can make custom screens to display the information. I basically use two screens, one for the tach/temp, one with the fuel burn. If you have a NMEA 2000 gps, you can tie that in and it will give you mileage by calculating your fuel burn vs. speed.

Gus, Have you ever used or tried suspension seats? http://www.glyde-ryde.com/products.htm I was pretty impressed watching the captain of a 28' transporter we were on in 4' chop just glide his way through on a long ~70nm haul back from a hunting trip. I'd say if you have back problems, no matter what type of boat you go with, you and your bride will really appreciate such seats.

I posted it in the show your boat thread, but here it is again. A buddy has posted quite a few of my pics, and a writeup of the maiden voyage on his forum. http://www.fishyfish.com/paulhail/paul.html If I were to build another boat, I'd weld one up out of aluminum. I didn't mind the woodwork, or the epoxy and glass work. But I reconfirmed that I absolutely detest sanding, fairing, more sanding, more fairing, priming, sanding, thinking I should fair some more but then going ahead and painting it so I'd finally get on the water. Not to mention doing that during a damp spring which made finding a weather window to paint a nightmare. Let's just say building a boat in your garage where the garage is 3" longer than the boat, and 1/2" higher was a challenge. I love the way the boat handles and it's a good fishing platform, but it's just too small for our use, and I hate slowing down in a chop

Looking down on Anchorage, New Years day a couple years back. A small lake near Kenai. Looking out or front door Denali from 32000 feet And for some reason the one pic I'd really like to post is on my thumb drive at home.

Dan, Sounds like a perfect excuse to upgrade to twin 175's The only time I've heard of oil sludging up is from being run for extended time w/o changing it. Hopefully the repeated flushes will clean it out w/o having to tear it down. I'd suggest running some fuel injector cleaner in your next tank, and if you haven't already, replace the internal fuel filters in the engine. It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel lines if they look suspect. The yammy 115's have had some known problems, though not with every one of them. One is running too cool and the pistons not sealing which leads to "making oil" another way to say fuel getting added to the oil, not a good thing. I don't recall if a warmer thermostat was a fix or not. So with the tunnel supposedly open tomorrow, are you heading to Whittier or back to Seward?

So far the other fishing forums I follow are: http://www.sportfishermen.com/board/f172/ and http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forumdisplay.php?f=3

I love the last two! So what effect do you use to make the pictures look like a painting?

If you have a serious coffee afliction/adiction, don't go to http://www.sweetmarias.com/ When you brew up a cup of coffee from beans you've just roasted, you'll know the true definition of a good cup of coffee.

Thanks for the input, I've received other reports of breakage as well. I've kinda gone over the edge researching the latest in jigging rods and will likely build a pair of rods using Riley blanks. I've handled some trevala rods as well as other butterfly/jerk crank jigging rods and to me the trevalas seem to have tips that are too soft and too much back bone. I'd thought the torque would work for a specialized application, and they likely would, but it looks like the newer parabolic rods would be a better all around rod.

Dan's got me beat with better fish pics, but I got happy kids with fish pics My oldest son with his first saltwater catch, a smallish yelloweye, and a big smile. My youngest son with a quillback rockfish Not a big one, but my best yelloweye last year My best catch for last year, a 40# ling cod. And not sporting, but if you're going to fill the freezer, you can't beat dipnetting. My best day was 65 salmon in 3 hours. This was not my best day, but a slow day gives you time to take pics. This is one of our favorite family activities. My daughter loves cleaning salmon, so she and my wife will be gutting them as I bring them in, and the boys will pull them up on sleds to the cooler. On an ideal day, I'll be done fishing and all the fish will be cleaned and on ice. On a hot day, I'll catch em faster than they can process them and they'll be a pile of 20-30 fish that still need processing. Then there's the long drive home and the chore of vacuum packing and brining fish. Oh, and lets not forget the most important part, the final product.

I forgot to mention in that photo I was free soloing, i.e. climbing w/o ropes. That climb is fairly easy and relatively low angle, though ~600' high. I took the kids up it last year, with ropes. Where else can you start a climb at 6pm, top out at 10pm, and the sun is still up for the hike off. Here are some pictures from the top from last spring. There were wild fires in Siberia and the smoke had drifted over here, hence the hazy skies.

Has anyone used any of the penn torque jigging rods? I'm looking at putting together somewhat of an oddball specialized jigging setup. It will be used primarily for rockfish, and I'd like to occasionally target black cod, which run deep, as in 150 fathoms and deeper I picked out a reel, shimano tld 15, put on some backing and spooled with 500 yds of 30# braid. Even though I'll be using lighter line, with the extended depth I'll be using heavier jigs than one would typically use for a nominal 20# class setup. I fondled a variety of rods during lunch today, and the penn torques seemed to be the best combination of a light rod, and relativel stiff which is good for this application. I tried the shimano trevala which seemed too limp for heavier jigs, and a few other rods that just didn't have the stiffness I was after. The other rod I'm considering is a seeker inshore blue lighting 20# rod. I have a pair of 40# blue lightings and they are my general purpose saltwater rods. I have read some reports of people breaking the torque rods, but I can't see me having that problem running 30# line. Any pros and cons or suggestions are appreciated.

While I love wood boats, and even built one I'd think long and hard before buying an older one that needs some work. The #1 question you need to ask yourself is, do you want a project to work on, or a boat to take out cruising a fishing? If you want to spend time on the water vs. in drydock, I would avoid wood boats, or any that need signifigant work. In general with older used boats, people are selling them because the cost of fixing them exceeeds the value of the boat. Sorry to hear this one didn't work out, but it beats the heck out of being stuck with a project boat.

It's not cold year round. We just had a straight week of blue skis, sun and 60-70 deg temps. I'd say the second week of July is about the best time to visit based on weather and fishing. I live 15 minutes outside of Anchorage, in a sub devision. It's just a 1/4 acre lot. But, we are 15 minutes from a variety of trail heads. Here are a couple more boating pics of the kids on a local lake.

Or hanging out by the side of the road Looking out the front door during a sunset and misc spots around home and work

Hopefully on the inspection tag on the bottle it lists the weight of the empty cylinder. For that simple system you just need to weigh the cylinder to see if it's weight is cylinder empty weight plus the 5#'s for the agent. Asside from that visually inspect the fuseable link to see if there is any apparent damage and you should be good to go. If you ever decide to upgrade the unit, find a company that recycles halon, there are several around the country.

Halon systems are typically checked by weighing the bottles and inspecting the piping system. A pressure gauge is meaningless as it just lets you know you have something in the bottle to propel the halon, but you don't know how much agent is present. Yes, 1211 is a wonderful agent and is pretty much unavailable. I've seen it used on a pan fire and looks like magic the way it puts out a fire. In addition to knowing if the bottle is full, you want to make sure the discharge lines and nozzles aren't clogged. If there is a flexible hose that attaches the halon bottle to the discharge piping, it will need to be inspected and possibly replaced. I know on 1301 systems the rubber hoses have to be removed and pressure tested every 5 years. I don't know what type of detection is used to activate the system, but you'd want to have that inspected. There are clean agent replacements for halon, so if your system has loss the agent, you would have some options to replace it, but you'd likely have to have the whole system replaced as the new agents have different flow characteristics and use different nozzles, pipe dia etc. There is a really neat product for engine compartments called Firetrace that is a combination of fire detection and discharge tubing all in one. But for some reason they've never been able to really break into the US market. The biggest problem you are going to have is finding someone that is qualified to work on it. The manufacturers no longer support the systems, and anyone that recieved manufacturers training would have gotten that training upwards of 20 years ago. I can't even find an NFPA standard for 1211, even the Halon 1301 standard was frozen at 1997. I've worked on modifying a few 1301 systems in the past couple years and its become a nightmare to get them calculated and to get nozzles. Good luck!

I usually shake my head and give them a wide berth. For some reason the real boneheads seem to have a tough time taking good advice, no matter how subtly or kindly it is given. I figure the coasties can give them a not so subtle reminder.