petrel

The marina says that they will take care of it. They are a very reputable outfit, but I like to hedge my bets, so I opened a claim with my insurance. Now my insurance will go after the marina (if they don't pay soon), the Marina says they are asking the fuel service to cover the expense, The fuel service says that they expect the filter manufacturer to cover it. The marina did not charge us for the fuel, had it removed, and has also agreed to reimburse us for the fuel that was onboard before the phase separated fuel was introduced.

Since insurance and my Yamaha extended warranty was involved, I chickened out and had the dealership perform the work. In addition to what Hotspot recommended (Thanks again for your help!), they pulled the injectors and sent them off to be cleaned and tested. We also had the tank and lines cleaned and flushed by a fuel service. They did not replace the fuel primer bulbs. I guess I better grab a spare set. The initial quote for the work was $5500.00, but the final invoice was $2918.00 We seatrialed the boat yesterday and it is smooth and jumps up on plane again (well as best as a 31EW can). However, it appears that I lost 200-300 rpm right off the top. I ran the mechanic around for 20 minutes arguing about it. He said that there was no way that both engines could loose the exact number of rpm. I asked him if the difference between their fuel, 87 or 89 octane Valvetech treated fuel, and the fuel I usually run, premium Citgo at 90something octane (treated with MDR stor n start), could account for the difference. He said maybe!? I hated to stand there and make a stink over 200 rpm, so we agreed to re-conveine, if after burning off and replacing some of that fuel, the top performance does not return. If the problem persists, or worsens when I finish re-loading the boat, what should I check, or have checked, next?

Thinking about using Norfolk Marine for some major Yamaha service, anyone had any experience with this company? They seem to have been around for a long time, and the service department is very courteous and knowledgeable on on the phone, but I would feel more comfortable hearing from a few references.

My marina just sold me 170 gallons of phase separated fuel and it reduced my like new (less that 200hr) F250s to bumping sputtering crap(had to run them 20 minutes to get back through the inlet and onto the nearest dock). I have had the tank pumped out, and made arrangements to have a service add clean fuel then recirculate and polish the fuel until the tank is clean. How do I clean out the Yamahas? I know to drain the lines and replace the primary and secondary fuel filters, what other things should I look for or service. The dealer says that there is another part of the fuel system that should be cleaned out by a qualified mechanic. I would appreciate any guidance on the matter.

another vote for Garmin!

Just as the previous post stated: at least after Thanksgiving. I too have found December to be more productive.

I agree with a previous post, the Nexrad image is a real trip saver. My Garmin also emits an audible alarm when there is a weather advisory in the area, which is sort of nice. Only disappointing features I've found is the SST and the lack of a canyon weather report. I've only been able to acquire the reports out to 20nm. I would not go without it, plus it is nice to have the XM radio piped in so you still have radio offshore.

No problems running premix through the Racor. Sorry, can't help with the re-install question.

I live near the Rappahannock River, but do most of my fishing out of Rudee Inlet. We keep a boat at Rudee, and trailer another. For years we've mostly offshore fished, however lately spadefishing is becoming a real obsession!

I would enjoy a Chesapeake Bay forum as well.

I purchased my boat used and the Raymarine Linear Feedback Cylinder (aka Rudder angle indicator) was just hose clamped to the sea star steering cylinder. Everywhere I look (14 sites so far and my nearest dealer) the kit (D228) is on back order until June 30th. I have everything but the blocks that go between the Linear Feedback Cylinder and the Seastar Cylinder. Anyone have an extra set of the blocks to sell or know where I may find them? Thanks

I just created a shortcut to this thread!!

e-mail sent

Ok, did what I could of the 200 hr service today. Thrust washers tied me up for a half an hour a piece. Had all my stuff laid out along with the torque specs when I discovered that my torque wrench would not go below 25 ftlbs! So, I just winged it on everything but the props (the wrench worked for them) and the sparkplugs (I'll buy a smaller torque wrench for the plugs tomorrow.) I could not remove the fuel filter bowls in the engine. Andy sent a wrench that looked like it was made for them, but it was too small. Could not open them with a big wrench on the nut at the bottom either! Removing the lower unit side panels to drain the crankcase oil went smoothly. However, anyone who hasn't done it before, learn from my mistake. There are two little nuts slipped into the port lower unit cover which will fall out when you trim the motor up. My nine year old picked the first pair up out of a gravel driveway! Getting those @#*! oil filters off was a real goat.....rope. Thank goodness for someone's suggestion of stuffing a diaper under the filter. The ziplock over the filter helped, but I ended up with more oil in the diaper. I believe if I ever had the pleasure of meeting the engineer responsible for that oil filter layout, I could get his pinhead stuffed in that hole! Things I learned: Trimming the motor up and down while turned hard to port and starboard gets more oil out of the crankcase. The Blitz 15qt oil drain pans work great for catching the oil from the crankcase and the lower unit. Andy at shipyard takes very good care to be sure you have everything you need. A little Makers Mark makes the second oil filter come out a whole lot more easily than the first. Still have the plugs, onboard filter, and waterpumps left. Thanks to all for the sage advice and expert guidance!

I'll give that a try. The washer on the starboard engine is stuck too! Thanks Any insight on that grease fitting?

answer: clean out around washer with a utility knife. soak with pb blaster while lightly tapping with a peaning hammer. Insert very large cold chisel behind washer and against square tabs on inner lower unit. Apply one very light tap and that did it! Now does anyone know why the grease fitting won't take but about a quarter stroke of grease?

Trying to do my own 200 hr service and can't get the thrust washer off of the propshaft. Gave it a couple light taps with a hammer, but no joy. Is there a trick to this that won't damage the lower unit?

GPS Epirb on the boat and a GPS PLB on the ditch bag.

It is hard to guess the dimensions from the photo, but I believe you may be able to fit the windlass under the hatch. I have a similar arrangement on my boat. You would need to line the approach to the bow roller with nylon, then build a plate to cover the hole and hold the windlass. Mine is like the one pictured in this link: http://www.ewboats.com/318_center_console_gallery_13.html. However, if you don't want to open a hatch everytime you want to drop the hook, I'd go with Joe's suggestion. By the way, I don't think you could go wrong with a Lewmar in either a vertical or horizontal configuration, I have one of each and have been very pleased with both. Sorry, the link takes you to the whole photo gallery, but if you scroll right to the windlass image you will see what I am attempting to describe.

another vote for Racor!

Predator 35 Express by Egg Harbor: http://www.eggharboryachts.com/35_detail.shtml

Guy in the slip behind us with a new sixty something Viking has all blue lighting, bridge, cockpit, and underwater. Guy down the dock with a new express...you guessed it. All blue lights. They are definitely IN. Feel like such a fashion don't with my new white led cockpit lights.

I've started using Green Grease in my trailer hubs and brake actuator fittings. It seems to do well and holds up to the whole disc brake heat and salt water immersion thing. Do you think it would be a suitable substitute for the "marine grease" recommended for all of the fittings and the propshaft in the Yamaha manual?

thanks for the warning!