Jump to content
Welcome to the Reel Boating Forum.
From Trailer Boaters to Captains to Marine Industry Professionals, the Reel Boating Forum welcomes you to join in with other boaters and fishermen discussing topics including sportfishing, marine electronics, boating safety, boat engines and more.
Use our FREE boat classifieds to sell your boat or fishing gear.
Marine Industry Vendors are also welcome to register a username and freely post their products or services

bly

Registered
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    92

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by bly

  3. Boston Whaler Outrage

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    Yep 4 boats in the yard. I'm going to rehab anyhow that's what I told my wife :605_thumbs_up:Been cleaning it up today and checking the motors and the compression is good lower units good. Needs new plugs,one tilt and trim motor is low on fluid. It has no electronics. :rb-rules:

    Nice whaler. thats too bad. you only have 4 boats in the yard. I dont count mine? That way I dont have to lie to my wife! One of my friends uses an older outrage to stiper fish the inlets up here and he does test the boats floatation occasionally with the stripers hanging out in the breakers. Its a good safe boat.

  4. 233 formula is now 263 about sort of oh youll see

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    bly,

    Very ambitious project, impressive.

    One question however, are you planning on epoxy coating the fuel cells?

    No I will take my best shot this way. Fuel tanks go bad mostly two ways. from inside out mostly believe it or not? {from experience of many years and many old boats. That wont happen much nowadays with the alchohol ethanol in gasoline. A bad install is what you are talking about and I am covering all bases there. If you foam a tank in place you better take the pains to first etch the aluminum then and only then epoxy coat it. or atleast coaltar epoxy very thick because one scratch will do it in. Then I set the tank on dedicated tank supports that are glassed to stringers and hull. then the tank has dense neoprene pads that are on the bottom of the tank and isolate it from any non aluminum. No wood or glass touches the tank. next the tank is bolted into dense penske board spacers between the main stringers and the tabs welded on to the tank. using stainless bolts.No wood, fiberglass or FOAM !!!!, like a lot of top name builders still use, will trap water up against my aluminum tank. Then the tank if water does ever get to its surface of condensation from filling the tanks on a warm day from ground cooled storage tank fuel . It will end up in the bilge and pumped overboard not trapped next to the aluminum coroding it like a cancer you cant see. Also aluminum of all the metals does not like to be coated or have anything secondary bonded to it. Except the same type aluminum welded to it. I remember 20รท years ago when I saw ocean yachts aluminum stringer molds and asked if they ever got the stringers stuck in the mold? They said nothing ever sticks permantly to aluminum. So epoxy all the tanks you want and then foam them in also if you want. This is my way and also a noted surveyor david pascoe also is in this ball park on my thinking? sorry for the more then one word answer but I take my boat work very serious and I take no prisoners when it comes to bad boat building?

  6. Miami Boat Show Discussion Thread

    in 2010 Miami Boat Show Pictures

    Posted

    Long weekend indeed. It took 9 hours today for me to get these photos compiled and on the forums.

    :blink:

    Not sure if Ludicrous got pix of the Intrepid.

    There is a chance I am going back to the show tomorrow. If I'm able, I will snap some.

    We may have some video of the Intrepids.

    Thanks wiley and lude for the hard work on the pictures. I knew you guys would pull it off first.

  7. Miami Live Stream

    in 2010 Miami Boat Show Pictures

    Posted

    We hit a glitch with the USB connector. Could probably track down another but Miami is a zoo right now and it would take the better part of the day.

    We scrubbed the live feed for now.

    Wiley thanks for the update? I am a little slow, No I am a lot slow and spent 15 minutes looking all over the place for the miami live feed? Sheit happens hope ludicrous puts some still pictures up for us soon> Thanks again for trying this wiley? This is like virtual boat show tour from my living room couch. It shouldnt work but sounds neat. I have been a part of miami and lauderdale shows in the past and I guess I am just getting lazy and cheap?

  9. Which electronics do you prefer?

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    I have looked at electronics from 4 perspectives

    1. Quality of the information provided

    2. Quality of the electronics

    3. Price

    4. Custtomer service

    Furuno I believe is very strong on 1, 2 and 4, but is more costly.

    In the end I selected Furuno

    Good way to put it gus. I actually like garmin gps and furuno fishfinder. on No. 3 price. raytheon seems like a good deal til 2 years after you buy and you say why did I buy this junk? furuno nomatter how old still seams like a quality unit years and years after? Thats my perspective and I am sticking to it.

  13. Painting "Blemishes" With AwlGrip

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    Gus, the consensus on the 'net seems to be:

    First, determine if your boat is finished in Awlgrip, or Awlcraft (the latter is very much like Imron). Then, go to your local Awlgrip agent and obtain a touchup kit, and while you're there, pick up a bottle of Awlgrip (or Awlcraft) solvent/thinner.

    To start, first remove any loose flakes of paint then use the solvent to thoroughly clean in and around the scraped or chipped area. Next step, apply a first covering of color, then wait for it to dry then and repeat until the level of paint in the gouge/scrape/chip matches the surrounding area. Afterwords, using very fine grade paper, wet sand the raised excess paint surrounding the gouge until all is as smooth and as level as possible. The last step is to buff the repaired area until it matches the rest of the hull or superstructure.

    Good info here,

  14. Single or Twins

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    The first time you get caught out 20 miles plus with a broke boat you will wish you had twins...... For 3 years now I have owned my first twin engined boat. It really helps put me at ease being I run out 40 + miles.

    I have a sailfish 2360 with twins and have very little I can say negative about the boat. It really is a very good ride and easily converts to a family cruiser. Good Luck

    I have fished off shore with a single a lot but I guess age is catching up finally? I now have a twin for this season. I had a hpdi that went boom and I alays believed the 140 bananas were worth the tow service. I guess the twin bite latched on after the hpdi got really guiet

  15. How about an online boat registry -project -modification area?

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    Thanks Gus

    I'm pretty sure it'll work fine. I just remember back in the day many members would complain about some features being complicated.

    I like to push the feature envelope if you will.

    Just don't want to alienate anyone but at the same time believe RB can offer more than just being another web forum.

    Look for this to be ready in a week or so.

    We can all be your beta testers huh> That makes us feel important instead of confused if that happens?

  16. 2 1986 yamaha 200s

    in Boats, Fishing and Marine Items For Sale

    Posted

    Two 1986 200 hp yamaha outboard motors. complete with controls, gauges and oil tanks. 1300 hrs. Bad news is that one of then has a knock in the powerhead at low rpm(low idle). It has been there for about 400 hrs. Other motor runs perfectly. Both lower units good. Motors currently on my boat, ran last month. $1500. Located in Edgewater MD.

    I am very interested.

  17. 98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    Gentlemen,

    It is apparent that my friend Scott does have a thing or to to say about stringers, support options, hull/deck integrity, usages, etc. I think he has put forth many considerations in stringer design and function that we all can learn from.

    We, Pro-Line, buy our stringers from Compsys. We trust them to design stringers for our boats that enable them to be not only solid, seaworthy, and trustworthy for their 10 year hull/deck warranty, but also give our boats the staying power to allow an owner of a used Pro-Line to be able to give her new life via a re-power and a paint job, and enjoy her for 15 more years.

    I thank Scott for getting back here on Reel Boating and supporting his product. We have had tremendous results with their stringers and other products (Prisma Beams are EXCELLENT stiffeners!), and we appreciate their expertise. Mark Pidgeon, one of Scott's "right-hand men", has spent countless hours at our plant, usually at night, working with our stringer crew in lamination to get everything right. My hat's off to Mark! :1992_beer_cheer:

    To those who think they have a better way to build production boats, have at it. I don't see many of you who have an opinion out there at IBEX or the other manufacturers shows touting your "new and improved" products. I applaud Scott and his company for doing what they do, not only for us, but for the countless other boat builders that they work with. As he alluded to, we at Pro-Line are saddened by the demise of Century, and, from what he says, Carravelle. For us, yes, you could say, it is less competition. But competition breeds improvements and innovation. More importantly, the demise of the 2 builders puts many boat loving people out of a job, in areas where jobs, regardless of industry, are very hard to come by.

    I hope we think about both what Compsys is trying to do, and what our industry is trying to do, in the times we are in.

    Bob C

    Osprey I thanked scott for comming back and answering the many questions I put forward. I also traveled from South jersey to miami and walked the almost empty isles of IBEX. it was pretty sad that someone like myself doing only repairs instead of building boats could command so much time by the powers to be in the booths. I think this economic mess is only going to get worse. Its a shame that many will probably leave the boating community never to return

  19. 98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    There are thousands of stringers and stringer grids out there that are of different levels, have notches, reliefs, step-downs, you name it.

    Yes there are, and every one of them is built incorrectly. Just because someone builds something doesn't make it right. Sometimes I think these manufacturers don't have a mechanical engineer to share between them. Anytime a stringer has a step it will hinge at that location when it flexes, and it will fail at the step. Thousands have failed in this manner. Notches and reliefs are even worse than steps. A stringer's job is to stiffen the hull and a curved stringer can't do that. It's other job is to support the deck and I don't see those stringers doing that either.

    I'll quote David Pascoe here, he has more letters behind his name than I do...

    Mistakes involving stringer design and installation are legion, about which a whole book could be written. And yet the principles for creating an effective stringer system are very simple and easy to achieve. Surely there are not many designers or builders who do not understand this. Or are there? Problems usually arise as a result of other design and marketing considerations. Typical examples are when a designer wants to create a small boat with 6'6" headroom or wants to install unusually large engines. The machinery spaces, which are not subject to appearance and marketing considerations, are usually sacrificed.

    In order to get the 6'6" head room or make high profile engines or other equipment fit, the principles of proper stringer design are often sacrificed. In other words, the principles of sound hull design get sacrificed for marketing considerations and the surveyor needs to be constantly aware of this fact. Its the primary reason why, in this day when all is known how to build a good boat, bad boats are still being built. Give the customer what he wants, even if the product is going to fall apart.

    The principles of good stringer design are simple. They must run uninterrupted from one end of the hull to the other. They must be of adequate height to width ratio, i.e., structural modulus, to resist impact loading on the hull skin, be of sufficient strength to carry the engine load, be stabilized against lateral movement if high profile, and be securely attached to the hull so that they don't break loose. The profile, or top of the stringer, should run in a straight line. If there are any changes in the profile, then special design reinforcements must be added.

    Reference: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/HullFailPart1.htm

    Thank you cracker larry . I am so impressed by your response to my beliefs in hull and stringer design that I wanted to quote you again and david pascoe. Now I believe my questions were justified and I do not understand why the OP as osprey 250 calls him did not answer his original post?Oh I get it now OP, I am a little slow. since osprey says he made contact with him and he doesnot want to enter a two way forum on Reel Boating. Maybe he was only trying to get free advertising and is affraid to answer our specific questions. Maybe there are some questions about his product that he would rather not answer?

  20. 98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted · Edited by bly

    The outboard stringers appear to be on the same level. The keel stringer has an obvious downward curve, which suggests to me that the dip is necessary due to the underside of the deck. I couldn't venture to say why it is formed in such a fashion as I have no idea what the underside of his deck looks like in that area.

    There are thousands of stringers and stringer grids out there that are of different levels, have notches, reliefs, step-downs, you name it. If, for instance, I have a slightly raised helm area, and all my stringers are at the same level, where is the bonding surface/support for the helm area?

    I'm not trying to defend the OP. What I am trying to do is point out the differences in deck designs/features, and how the stringer system has to be altered to accomodate said features.

    what about secondary bonding? Resin type? Glass type? How many layers? Does this stringer system have any inherent strength or does it get all its stifness and rigid form from the glass and resin chosen? It seems to have large radiuses where it meets hull? Why? I still dont understand why you would not want the stringer to go from the hull to the deck if possible? That way the hull stringer is supporting the deck and the deck stringer is supporting the hull.Those outboard stringers in the picture sure look to be running down hill also? AND NOT HIGH ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE DECK? Why start a thread with no feed back? Especially for the betterment of Reel Boating forum

  21. 98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted · Edited by bly

    Stringers tops should not curve, the tops of a stringer should always form a straight line, no curves, no steps, no change of level. The bottom needs to curve of course, to conform with the hull, but the top edge should be a straight run. And the tops of all 3 of them should be on the same level plane. Looks impressive but it wouldn't pass a survey.

    And they sure seem too low to support the sole when it goes back in. :471_confused_face:

    In thought it didnt look right. Thanks for backing up my thoughts cracker larry. I dont thinkn this composit guy is here to be on a forum? We thinks hes just doing some free sdvertising without participation. But he sure sounds impotent, Composite EXPERT! help?

  23. 98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted · Edited by bly

    What Kind of trailer accident? just loading a boat or a highway accident? Did the original stringers seperate from the hull with out damaging the hull? was the floatation foam part of the problem? was the floatation foam reinstalled before deck went down? What glass laminate was put on top of the stringer foam? was vinylester resin used for a better secondary bonding? What supports the deck? the stringers do not look like they go high enough to support the deck?What kind of stringers were there before the accident? same type? There are a lot of people that do our own repairs and projects here. We like to know the REEL BOATING story

  25. Another 1963 Bertram

    in Boating and Fishing Discussion

    Posted

    Power Yacht was kind enough to send me this picture of an 38 footer like mine that he saw in Malta . . . there were only 13 made

    <img src="http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/Auguste_album/bertram38forGus.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

    While I do not like what the owner did to the aft bulkhead of the salon, we all have different tastes, it is interesting to see that (i) flybridge has remained the same (ii) the blue color is like the color combination we saw of Chevy products (the Corvette and the Belair for example of the early sixties)

    Thanks Power Yacht for sending the picture

    There was one in the 60s with detroit 671s. factory. Someone once told me the hull was used in a NY to miami race or something like that. It was a FB model with outriggers that was one of the fastest canyon capable boats in the 60s It was called the Printers Devil Good luck with your piece of history

×
×
  • Create New...