reelapeelin

Taken By Lauren (my youngest daughter) on The Tugaloo River, Lake Hartwell Let's keep this goin'!!...runnin' shots are da BOMB!!...

That's gotta be gutwrenching...does insurance pay off if ya left the plug out?...

Sounds SHOCKING!!...what happened?...is there a lesson there?

There is no remote delay...I've had mine for years and it's instant response...w/out it, I'd have to learn all over again how to fish...the Auto-Pilot is a real plus also...like havin' another hand in the boat...it's SPOILED me...wouldn't wanna be w/out it...mines a Minn Kota...don't know anything about any others:605_thumbs_up:

Good luck w/it...was that the same dealer that did the original set-up?... Let us know how it goes...

Have you looked in Boats For Sale on this site?...nice 23' Polar w/twin 115 Yammies there...looks like new...

Looks like PA on hull...

Makes no difference how good a tire you buy if your axles are out of alignment, it'll eat 'em up!!...I'm takin' mine in in the morning for alignment and to dble check the balancing on each tire...once you're thru those hurdles, radials no doubt...my dealer is now pushing Maxis Trailer radials over the Goodyear Marathons...they do look like a beefier tire

There are some great books on wiring 12 volt boat systems...there's more to it than should be covered in a forum post...yes you should have a tach, fuel gauge (fuel-flow meter if you go offshore), volt-meter, temp and pressure also...if you have or will have a GPS unit, it will give you a better speed reading than a speedometer...

I just mentioned in another post, Honda has Regional Factory Techs in most areas of the country...mine's in Atlanta and there used to be another in Sebastian FL...if your dealer can't get to the root of a problem like the one you describe, have him get in touch w/ the Regional Tech...

I can imagine your frustration w/a brand new motor...hope this is the only problem you have and once corrected yours is as satisfying as mine has been...if your dealer has a good Honda tech, you won't need to, but if he can't get to the bottom of your problem, have him get in touch w/your regional Honda Factory Tech...but as said, you probably won't need to...just keep that in the back of your mind...

I did this in 1999 in gray w/black gauges...(have replaced the depthfinder since this picture was taken)...yes a router is exactly what's best for edging Starboard...it WILL expand w/heat, but as mentioned above, not in a dash-sized application... At the time I did this, I could not find 1/4", so this is 1/2"...hasn't presented any problems, but would use 1/4" in a do-over...this edging is w/a 1/4" roundover bit at the router table TIP: on hole-saws, don't run it too fast as it will melt the material...take it slow and let the teeth do their work...once you've worked w/this stuff some, you'll love it...and once you realize how nearly bulletproof it is, you'll REALLY love it...

Lotta good suggestions above, but take a hard look (seatrial) a 243 before you commit anywhere else... http://www.evergladesboats.com/boats/243cc.php 225 will be OK, but 250 is what this hull really needs...a good friend has one of these and I'd be comfortable (given the right forecast) 40-50 miles off...plus he's got an 80 lb thrust Minn Kota on the bow for sneakin' around in the shallows...T-top on this thing is AWESOME!!...and has 2 nice big baitwells...

Did you lose any power or performance in any way?...are you referring to the green light on the throttle base?...mine came on two years ago and lost some power (still made it back to the dock)...turned out to be the engine's computer (CPU I think)...was replaced under warranty...woulda been $1,100.00 out of warranty...Honda had just issued a technical bulletin(not recall) on the issue...I was lucky...only had 3 mos warranty left...other than that, my 150's been flawless since '04....

Southport Boatworks...designed by C. Raymond Hunt?..now where have I heard that name before??... http://www.southport-boatworks.com/ Nice!!...might those boats have a stepped V hull?...

A good friend of mine passed away recently, leaving his 28' Pro Cat to his son...son is not the old salt his dad was, so "Phat Kat" is on the block. Pro Cat had some hull issues, but be assured this one has stood the test of time and endurance. A great ride, dry and stable, with all the right stuff; Furuno chart/bottom machine and radar, Apelco auto-pilot, out-riggers, LARGE fishboxes...excellent fuel economy...out of Charleston 60-70 miles, troll all day, then back to the bank on 90-100 gals reg gas...the twin Optis will push her up to 48 mpg (GPS) and cruises at 26 KTS @ 3600 rpms. Has recently been in the care of top-notch Mercury dealer and you can get the skinny on this boat from them if interested. I've personally spent many hours aboard "Phat Kat" and know her to be a comfortable, seaworthy fish-catchin' machine Complete with 3-axle aluminum trailer in excellent shape, she'll find a new home for less than $30,000. PM me here if you have an interest.

Hard to tell from the pics, but is the pictured footrest hearty enough to just be screwed in place or will it require some "shoring up?" Love Achmed..."I KEEL you!"...LMFAOFF!!!...

Your top shop can make 'em of Eisenglass...my buddy had 'em on his 28' CC and they worked well on long runs to the stream...his fit the sides of the top frame and just swung out to attach at the outter edge of the top and lower edge of the gunwale...

You need the new Handy-Dandy Acme Slip-Stretcher... ...but you might wanna keep an eye in CYS...

Ring any bells?... http://www.charlestonyachtsales.com/core/l...yachtsales& Would not think much pounding goin' on here...

Pull up Google and search "fiberglass repair"...you will get a list of different companies, books, etc...The Mas Epoxy system is generally held in good regard as being user friendly and yields a good result...fiberglassing is an involved application, too much so to be explained in a forum thread and will require an amount of study and trial/error on your part...for instance, the ambient humidity plays a part in how well it sets up, so dig in before you start...I've always wanted to work w/someone who knows what they're doing and learn from them... One thing I've heard about spider-cracks is that if they aren't dealt with all the way down to the fiberglass (thru the gelcoat) is that they will return... Is yours a foam-core hull?...if so, be sure the core is dry before proceeding w/your project If the aluminum brackets you mention are so corroded to the point of being pitted, you may have to have them remade, or there may be a filler on the market to get the surface back again...sandblasting may be required...

Yeah...Pictures when ya can... :1992_beer_cheer:

Same here...I've had this boat since 1999...only regret that I didn't add tabs when originally set it up...WOW whadda difference...perfect condition to test...put the bow into an oncoming chop (long fetch) kicked up by overnite winds...before tabs it would have been doable, but bumpy...dropped that bow down and let the "pointy end" do it's thing and yer glidin' along on top of 'em...Yeah Man!!...

Bring on the pie, Big Boy!!...I am ready for it!!... Splashed today and Cablemaker yer RIGHT...totally new feel to this boat...tabs bring a degree of stability that was never there before...if you're considering whether to tab or not to tab...DO IT...

Thanks Guys...I actually already have a patent atty and two patents for my trouble...from inside the box you'll see typical aircraft style hex-nuts over large fender washers...not tightened down too tightly...between box and battery is heavy-duty foam pad to keep the fasteners from diggin' into the battery... if I were to do it again, I might consider T-Nuts instead thru a 1/4" piece of Starboard or something...