savage

Got a Schmitt. Like it a lot. The knob is on delrin and very smooth. Four years use and zero problems.

Saints 42 Colts 31

99° in Houston today, and no rain in the last 27 days... Plenty of humidity. I'm about to undertake a tree removal project and replacing a fence.

The same (similar) thing occurred to one of my DF200's about a year ago. Had to go to the dealer for a new cowling switch, about $78 Interesting to note, when I wired it up, something went wrong with my "Commander" gauges, and the Engine Hours for that outboard reset to zero. The Suzuki Service Manual shows test procedures for the relay and the PTT switch, where you check for resistance in the relay and continuity when the switch is activated. PM me if you need a scan of that procedure

A high quality electrical volt meter would be nice. Also not a gauge, but really handy to have... a 12 volt power plug (cig lighter/cell phone recharger/spotlight)

If its a "destroyer" style wheel, you're limited to drilling on the perimeter, or using the stainless straps (which aren't so bad) If it's the other style, where there are flats radiating outward from the hub, you may be able to drill inside the flat, fixing a thru-bolt and bushing and avoid the sharp edge, and recess the knob a bit inside the perimeter from the danger zone. Or change wheels to one where the knob is already installed... I put a Smiths' retrofit wheel on mine a couple of years ago and its working just great - about $80 dropped if I remember right. it was a one beer job to change out... no big deal.

Dang! Sorry for your loss. I run the same Lewmar ProFish 1000 with Free Fall, and had a problem last fall where the free-fall clutch got screwed on account of a minor load pulling out without being cleated off. Fortunately, I didn't lose any rode or steel. There is a tale with photos under my same user name on that oTHer siTe, about how I was able to repair the Free-Fall clutch feature and get the ProFish model windlass working again. Seems that it is mandatory to push the Up Anchor switch for a few seconds after free falling, to bring the clutch/crank thingy back under load. Next windlass, I'll get the capstan style and not worry about chain size, rode diameter, swivel diameters, or run-out under load. probably save a buck or too as well.

My first boat had one of the Shakespeare band separators on it for the single, rail-mounted 8 foot antenna. Performance was so-so. For example, my favorite station was broadcasting at 50,000 watts then, and the signal would fade out as I got close to the coast in the truck, then I could listen in mono for few miles off the coast. Strong stations were OK to about twenty miles out. Upgrade was to mount two antennas on the T-top, and for the AM/FM, I installed the Digital Antenna 4-foot model. Put the band separator on the shelf. After this upgrade, I could get that favorite station in clear stereo at 30 miles out, and listen in mono at 45 miles. Picked up out-of-town stations everywhere. AM was superb, never a problem, except if lightning was in the area. I never noticed a difference in the VHF side, but I never had to issue an SOS. So, the question is one less hole in the boat and save about $30, or have totally satisfying listening pleasure and a dedicated antenna for the tunes, on a quality product that lasts for years. (Cut that hole!)