98 Pathfinder Stringer Job

[slewit]

Thanks to Chris Peters for the photo’s of his repair job on his 1998 Pathfinder boat.

Chris’s boat was damaged in a trailer related accident. The result was he needed to replace the stringer system in the mid section of the boat.

Here the deck has been removed, exposing the hull.

Nice job removing the old stringers and getting ready to prep the laminate

New Prisma Stringers are laid into position.

Note how new Prisma preform stringers match up to the undamaged stringers. They are ready for wet out.

Wet Out Stringers. Note how you can tell it is wet out as you now see though the Prisma Glass

Great Choice selecting Epoxy for the Repair !

Notice how nicely the Prisma beam contours to the hull bottom.

Giving it that final roll to make sure its perfect !

Nice work Chris !

Thank you

Scott

[Chisox]

Delete.

Edited November 30, 2009 by 250 Osprey

[Chisox]

Scott's company, Compsys, provides all of our stringers and bulkheads for our boats 23 and under, which are our most popular sellers. He and Mark Pidgeon work very closely with myself, and formerly my colleague, on getting the loft right, the rigging tubes right, in short, providing us a product that lam can lay in the hull, wet it out, glass it in, and, viola!, a foam filled stringer grid without the expense of building a stringer grid mold.

Providing the re-builder, individual, or marine repair facility the ability to quickly replace rotten stringers/bulkheads in a ready made form is one advantage a company like Compsys has over a builder like us. I'm glad, in these times, that they have the capability to branch out into different aspects of the boating market. Wish we could do that...

[bly]

What Kind of trailer accident? just loading a boat or a highway accident? Did the original stringers seperate from the hull with out damaging the hull? was the floatation foam part of the problem? was the floatation foam reinstalled before deck went down? What glass laminate was put on top of the stringer foam? was vinylester resin used for a better secondary bonding? What supports the deck? the stringers do not look like they go high enough to support the deck?What kind of stringers were there before the accident? same type? There are a lot of people that do our own repairs and projects here. We like to know the REEL BOATING story

Edited December 3, 2009 by bly

[bly]

I guess the composit expert doesnt care about helping us in our understanding boat projects? Does he only care about selling his stringer system? 2 days and he wont answer the thread he started?

[Cracker Larry]

Stringers tops should not curve, the tops of a stringer should always form a straight line, no curves, no steps, no change of level. The bottom needs to curve of course, to conform with the hull, but the top edge should be a straight run. And the tops of all 3 of them should be on the same level plane. Looks impressive but it wouldn't pass a survey.

And they sure seem too low to support the sole when it goes back in.

[bly]

Stringers tops should not curve, the tops of a stringer should always form a straight line, no curves, no steps, no change of level. The bottom needs to curve of course, to conform with the hull, but the top edge should be a straight run. And the tops of all 3 of them should be on the same level plane. Looks impressive but it wouldn't pass a survey.

And they sure seem too low to support the sole when it goes back in.

In thought it didnt look right. Thanks for backing up my thoughts cracker larry. I dont thinkn this composit guy is here to be on a forum? We thinks hes just doing some free sdvertising without participation. But he sure sounds impotent, Composite EXPERT! help?

Edited December 2, 2009 by bly

[Chisox]

The outboard stringers appear to be on the same level. The keel stringer has an obvious downward curve, which suggests to me that the dip is necessary due to the underside of the deck. I couldn't venture to say why it is formed in such a fashion as I have no idea what the underside of his deck looks like in that area.

There are thousands of stringers and stringer grids out there that are of different levels, have notches, reliefs, step-downs, you name it. If, for instance, I have a slightly raised helm area, and all my stringers are at the same level, where is the bonding surface/support for the helm area?

I'm not trying to defend the OP. What I am trying to do is point out the differences in deck designs/features, and how the stringer system has to be altered to accomodate said features.

[bly]

The outboard stringers appear to be on the same level. The keel stringer has an obvious downward curve, which suggests to me that the dip is necessary due to the underside of the deck. I couldn't venture to say why it is formed in such a fashion as I have no idea what the underside of his deck looks like in that area.

There are thousands of stringers and stringer grids out there that are of different levels, have notches, reliefs, step-downs, you name it. If, for instance, I have a slightly raised helm area, and all my stringers are at the same level, where is the bonding surface/support for the helm area?

I'm not trying to defend the OP. What I am trying to do is point out the differences in deck designs/features, and how the stringer system has to be altered to accomodate said features.

what about secondary bonding? Resin type? Glass type? How many layers? Does this stringer system have any inherent strength or does it get all its stifness and rigid form from the glass and resin chosen? It seems to have large radiuses where it meets hull? Why? I still dont understand why you would not want the stringer to go from the hull to the deck if possible? That way the hull stringer is supporting the deck and the deck stringer is supporting the hull.Those outboard stringers in the picture sure look to be running down hill also? AND NOT HIGH ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE DECK? Why start a thread with no feed back? Especially for the betterment of Reel Boating forum

Edited December 3, 2009 by bly

[Chisox]

The outboard stringers appear to be on the same level. The keel stringer has an obvious downward curve, which suggests to me that the dip is necessary due to the underside of the deck. I couldn't venture to say why it is formed in such a fashion as I have no idea what the underside of his deck looks like in that area.

There are thousands of stringers and stringer grids out there that are of different levels, have notches, reliefs, step-downs, you name it. If, for instance, I have a slightly raised helm area, and all my stringers are at the same level, where is the bonding surface/support for the helm area?

I'm not trying to defend the OP. What I am trying to do is point out the differences in deck designs/features, and how the stringer system has to be altered to accomodate said features.

what about secondary bonding? Resin type? Glass type? How many layers? Does this stringer system have any inherent strength or does it get all its stifness and rigid form from the glass and resin chosen? It seems to have large radiuses where it meets hull? Why? I still dont understand why you would not want the stringer to go from the hull to the deck if possible? That way the hull stringer is supporting the deck and the deck stringer is supporting the hull.Those outboard stringers in the picture sure look to be running down hill also? AND NOT HIGH ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE DECK? Why start a thread with no feed back?

Bly,

I'm not the OP, and I can't speak for the particular project he chose to illustrate, as I don't know the particulars.

I suggest you PM him to get his feedback to your questions.