Rigging a Breakaway Anchor

[loose_cannon]

1. Drill a 1/2" hole in the crown of the anchor.

2. Attach a screw pin shackle

3. Attach the chain to the screw pin shackle at the crown (you may need two shackles)

4. Use three nylon zip ties or three wraps of 80# mono to hold the chain to the eye on the shank of the anchor

5. Leave enough slack in the chain along the shank for the flukes to fully pivot both directions

If your anchor becomes fouled, you pull it with the boat (from the bow cleat) and the nylon zip ties or mono will break. Note: I highly recommend the use of an anchor ball for ease of retrieval. The ties are plenty strong enough to keep a boat anchored, but they can't withstand the pull of the engine. The chain then pulls the anchor from the crown and it pops right out of whatever it is hung up on or in. Keep some extra zip ties with you and re-rig it when you get it back on the boat. Bigger boats take more zip ties.

You'll never lose another anchor.

[DJWILLIAMS]

Good info, thanks alot!!!

David

[Amaruq]

Great idea, I always wondered how that was accomplished.

[Tower Todd]

Here is something that I ran across last month and have been considering. Has anyone tried this?:

http://www.suddenstrikejigs.com/AnchorSaver.html

[loose_cannon]

Here is something that I ran across last month and have been considering. Has anyone tried this?:

http://www.suddenstrikejigs.com/AnchorSaver.html

Same exact principle except it costs a minimum of $59.95 for the mechanism, plus $9.95 for every extra shear pin. I don't like the fact that it uses a specialized shear pin. Sure enough you wouldn't have one or couldn't find it when you needed it.

Two screw pin shackles and some zip ties/80# mono/stainless wire for the same result. Use the extra $50 for gas or tackle.

[whotookmyhandle?]

Great idea, I always wondered how that was accomplished.

Yeah, they are being developed right here. They work really well on an open platform with broad rollers. On a channel style roller pulpit they suck. But then so would tie straps. My point is that if your anchor loads OK on the rollers with the tie wraps, then the anchor saver will work even better.

[daved]

I like that technique when used under know conditions where you have plenty of time to react to an anchor being dislodged.

I like to think of my anchor as an emergency brake. I would hate the thought of just a few ty-wraps holding me off the rocks in a strong current, a moderate chop without any power .

When in transit or when on the hook for the night, I’d feel better with a small shackle between the chain and the eye on the shank .

[Jup31]

Another version is detailed here.

http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=850302

[sams]

Dave P has this correct. Your main anchor should be a fixed anchor. It is a saftey device first and foremost and to work effectively it can't break away. The times when you will really need an anchor from going up on the beach, out to sea, up on a jetty, rock, etc... there will most likely be sufficient wind and waves to break 10 zip ties.

Break away anchors should ONLY be used in controlled situations such as fishing or diving (with someone aboard.)

Sam

[Mr. Demeanor]

Dave P has this correct. Your main anchor should be a fixed anchor. It is a saftey device first and foremost and to work effectively it can't break away. The times when you will really need an anchor from going up on the beach, out to sea, up on a jetty, rock, etc... there will most likely be sufficient wind and waves to break 10 zip ties.

Break away anchors should ONLY be used in controlled situations such as fishing or diving (with someone aboard.)

Sam

A small shackle slipped through next to the zip ties transforms the anchor from a breakaway to a traditional style.

You would be amazed how hard it is to break 3 or 4 zip ties. Would I want to trust my life and limb to it...no, but you would be suprised. 10 zip ties might be as strong as a shackle.