Single Inboard Docking Advice

[DJD775]

This year I purchased my first boat with a single inboard motor and it has been an interesting experience learning to dock it smoothly. I purposely got an outside slip in order to simplify docking. So my far my best technique has been to come in at an angle to overcome any wind and attach a spring line from the front cleat on the boat to the middle cleat on the dock. I was hoping to be able to totaly pull the back end in by turning hard right and forward power but the spring line around the curvature of the bow makes this harder to do. I've attached a drawing of the docking situation and the prevailing winds in the area. Any andvice for this situation?

[Cracker Larry]

You don't mention a current, so I'll assume none? Try rigging the spring from the amidship boat cleat to the end cleat of the dock, the one nearest your transom. Right rudder will bring the stern in to the dock. Better yet, I would put the boat in the slip facing out. You don't show how much room you have, but given what I see, I'd approach the dock at 90 degrees with the bow into the wind and aiming for the outside corner. Idle speed. When about 1.5 boat lengths away, turn the wheel hard left, give a little power to induce a turn and shift to neutral when the turn starts. Let the momentum of the boat partially complete the turn. The wind on the bow will bleed speed and tend to blow the bow downwind, to port, helping the turn to port. When the turn is 3/4 complete, bump into reverse and use the prop torque to draw the stern to starboard and alongside the dock. Tie a stern line, put her in forward with right rudder and she'll lay alongside.

Single inboards takes some practice and fore thought. You can't make her go where physics won't allow, no need to fight it. Learn to use the prop torque to your advantage and don't position yourself where it is a disadvantage.

Hope this helps

[skunkedagain]

Use a spring line from the outermost bitt on the dock to the midship cleat. If you can, make a line the exact size. When you leave the dock, leave the spring line near the dock bitt, or stretched out towards the center of the dock. You can pick it up when you come in. The sole purpose of a spring line is to limit the fore or aft movement of the boat, and it really doesn't matter much which cleats you use as long as it stops the boat. Give it a try

Edited June 22, 2010 by skunked_again

[InTheNet]

This year I purchased my first boat with a single inboard motor and it has been an interesting experience learning to dock it smoothly. I purposely got an outside slip in order to simplify docking. So my far my best technique has been to come in at an angle to overcome any wind and attach a spring line from the front cleat on the boat to the middle cleat on the dock. I was hoping to be able to totaly pull the back end in by turning hard right and forward power but the spring line around the curvature of the bow makes this harder to do. I've attached a drawing of the docking situation and the prevailing winds in the area. Any andvice for this situation?

Practice or cheat(kind of)

I cheat. I have a bow thruster in my 25 Carolina. Makes it a peice of cake.

A friend (charter captain) that grew up docking a straight inboard can put it in the hole with his eyes closed. The difference is about 15 years of twice a day dockings. I will never be as good but I only dock once a week maybe twice for 6 months. I do not have the time or patience to practice. So I hit the lever for the thruster and look like a pro.

[Guest edgewater225]

I approach the dock at exactly the speed at which I am willing to slam into it. (and, just in case, I aim for something cheap)

[DJD775]

You don't mention a current, so I'll assume none? Try rigging the spring from the amidship boat cleat to the end cleat of the dock, the one nearest your transom. Right rudder will bring the stern in to the dock. Better yet, I would put the boat in the slip facing out. You don't show how much room you have, but given what I see, I'd approach the dock at 90 degrees with the bow into the wind and aiming for the outside corner. Idle speed. When about 1.5 boat lengths away, turn the wheel hard left, give a little power to induce a turn and shift to neutral when the turn starts. Let the momentum of the boat partially complete the turn. The wind on the bow will bleed speed and tend to blow the bow downwind, to port, helping the turn to port. When the turn is 3/4 complete, bump into reverse and use the prop torque to draw the stern to starboard and alongside the dock. Tie a stern line, put her in forward with right rudder and she'll lay alongside.

Single inboards takes some practice and fore thought. You can't make her go where physics won't allow, no need to fight it. Learn to use the prop torque to your advantage and don't position yourself where it is a disadvantage.

Hope this helps

Cracker Larry,

My drawing is not totally complete. There is a boat to the right me but I have a good amount of room to come in at an angle since his dock angles away from mine. I'll try the spring line from the amidship cleat next time out.

[Cracker Larry]

Cracker Larry,

I'll try the spring line from the amidship cleat next time out.

That will work for docking bow in. Just tie it off, at the above mentioned pre-measured length leave the engine idling in forward gear and right rudder while you leisurely tie the other lines. The problem with that method is you are relying on the spring line to stop the boat and reverse won't help you.

My drawing is not totally complete. There is a boat to the right me but I have a good amount of room to come in at an angle since his dock angles away from mine.

That only makes it a little trickier. I'd still go for a bow out docking, because you will have more control in that direction. The torque and wind are both more in your favor. I'd approach the dock pointing straight on, in the same direction as your boat pictured, but slightly upwind of it. About 2-3 boat lengths from the dock, pointing straight at it, turn the wheel hard left, give just a short burst of power then shift to neutral. The boat will continue the turn with momentum. When it runs out, shift into reverse a few seconds then back to neutral. By bumping between forward, neutral and reverse, you can work the stern right around the bow, as long as you are making a port turn. By bumping into forward gear, the stern will move to port before forward way is made. In reverse it will move starboard, and probably continue to do so no matter where you put the helm. Just by shifting gears you can make the stern move in the direction you want. The helm won't matter much in reverse. In most boats the wind will blow the bow around, torque will pull the stern around and if you timed the wind right you'll come up alongside the dock facing out

It will always be awkward approaching a dock to port with a boat that backs to starboard. It's really easier to spin the boat to port and back her into that spot FWIW I ran single engine charter boats for a long time.

I approach the dock at exactly the speed at which I am willing to slam into it. (and, just in case, I aim for something cheap)

Exactly! If you're going to hit something, hit it going REAL slow

If you're real new to it, set up some buoys, milk jugs and a weight, to represent your dock, out in open water where you can't hurt anything. Align the imaginary dock with wind and current conditions duplicating yours. Spend a day approaching it from every direction and practice each one. You'll learn quick what the boat will do and what she won't.

[DJD775]

Great advice Larry! I was hoping to get the boat in the water before the marina filled up so I could practice but that didn't happen. I'll try your idea about setting up buoys and practicing in open water.

[cataholic]

Remember that you will have to get water moving across your rudder before the rudder has any effect. You can use very short bursts of throttle to do this and get directional movement of the stern.

[skunkedagain]

Great advice Larry! I was hoping to get the boat in the water before the marina filled up so I could practice but that didn't happen. I'll try your idea about setting up buoys and practicing in open water.

That's all well and good, but at the dock, you DO get a little protection from waves and wind, especially as shown in your diagram.

I can't tell from the diagram which way is OUT, but when backing out of your slip, remember that the boat will naturally back to port (if you have a RH screw). To try to back out more straight, keep the wheel hard right in reverse. Knowing that a single screw inboard backs to port can help you make a decision on whether to dock stern in or bow in. Practice, man, practice. Not for nothing, my wife (who liked to run our old boats) never did get the hang of it, and I was the dock monkey who ran around yelling and looking stupid. Now I dock the boat.

Edited June 23, 2010 by skunked_again