Deck design

[kingair]

Ok, here is the situation.

My bow had 2 cleats (6 inch) and a above the deck port/starboard light. I now have a pop up light with a single cleat dead center in the bow.

My idea was to install two pop up chocks. My question is; are they needed? I am pretty sure if I want to keep my line straight , they are.

My whole process in this, is to keep the deck as clutter free as possible, hence the use of po-ups and no bow rail.

Here is a picture of the chock.

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[rchanner]

Kingair- is the cleat used primarily for anchoring, or is it a primary cleat for docking as well? If you have 2 cleats down each side for docking and the bow cleat is mainly for anchoring, I wouldn't worry about the chocks. If you use it as a primary docking cleat, I would probably go ahead and install them.

[kingair]

Kingair- is the cleat used primarily for anchoring, or is it a primary cleat for docking as well? If you have 2 cleats down each side for docking and the bow cleat is mainly for anchoring, I wouldn't worry about the chocks. If you use it as a primary docking cleat, I would probably go ahead and install them.

I would say 50/50. I have used my anchor about 4 times in 3 years. Chocks it is.

[rchanner]

As an aside....the chocks might be a good way to cover/re-use 2 of the holes left from removing the bow rail if the placement works out right. Anytime there's less patching to do, that's a good thing, right?

[kingair]

As an aside....the chocks might be a good way to cover/re-use 2 of the holes left from removing the bow rail if the placement works out right. Anytime there's less patching to do, that's a good thing, right?

Indeed

[Siggi Churchill]

You'll like the chocks for anchoring too I suspect, if I'm picturing your boat right. They keep the line from rubbing up against the rub rail and scuffing up the front of the boat. Important for docking as well as said.

The most important function of a chock is to control the angle of pull from the line. A constant angle is better for keeping the hitch to the cleat secure and keeping the line from binding over on itself.

Ideally you want the line to be fed from the chock towards the horn of the cleat so that as you take the first turn around the cleat, the line is close parallel to the long side of the cleat. That prevents the line from exerting too much torque on the cleat. You don't want it completely parallel or the line tends to ride over itself and bind...just a few degree offset to minimize torque while still keeping the line clear of itself. I don't know how much flexibility you have in placement, but if you can try to get as close to that angle as you can. If not it's hardly the end of the world, just might mean a little bit more torsional strain on the cleats than is necessary (cleats are much better at resisting being pulled upward than being torqued).

Something like this, only not on a sailboat, and with only one cleat:

[Rich]

I would add the chocks - They'll come in very handy if you're ever taken in side tow by another boat, or take another boat in side tow.

[kingair]

I would add the chocks - They'll come in very handy if you're ever taken in side tow by another boat, or take another boat in side tow.

I am heading to NC with a bunch of parts this weekend. I am painting the inside with gelcoat and getting some layout/design for the wiring. I will have some more pictures soon.

[Siggi Churchill]

it's gonna look good...

have fun. I have a love/hate thing with projects like this...hope you have more love than hate