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New to boating and the forum, questions regarding materials to redeck and replace transom


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Hi all, I have been receiving EMails from this site for a while and I finally decided to post. It looks like most of you have larger boats but your expertise would be helpful as well as appreciated.

I'm restoring an aluminum mid 80's 16' Sylvan Sea Star, the transom and most of the floor is shot... then there is the motor... This boat belonged to my neighbor who I fished with on this Sylvan a time or two. The boat was a gift with the stipulation that my boys and I used it and he could take it out once walleye fishing when I got it back on the water.

The cover went bad and water got in and ruined the floor, upon closer investigation I decided to take the entire floor and transom out and replace it. I'm waiting for spring since I have to work outside, but I'm currently compiling knowlege. This is my first boat (other than my 12" cartopper) but I am very mechanically inclined and ready to tackle the project. New floor, new wiring, new carpet, and new lower unit are all on the schedule. So far I had a new cover made, replaced the trailer tounge, new rims and tires, new lights and wiring.

Regarding transom and floor... I hear multiple schools of thought on materials, exterior plywood, exterior plywood coated with resin, exterior plywood coated with 3M 4200, marine plywood, and marine plywood coated with 3M 4200 (4200 I think). First issue is that marine plywood is real hard to come buy, not to mention the price. I'm willing to brave the cost if it truly is worth it. An MMI Tech told me to just go to Home Depot and get exterion plywood and it would last 20 years. I found marine plywood but the places around here are wholesalers and wouldn't sell to me.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Sylvanleft.jpg

Sylvanrightrear.jpg

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I suggest that you take a look at http://forums.bateau2.com/index.php?sid=40c6cc163633a7eb1ea387f7be4a0146 . This is a forum dedicated to building and rebuilding/repairing all types of boats. I've built a boat from a set of their plans and thoroughly enjoyed it. You will get good advice there and can order materials from their store.

Check it out.

Tim

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Hello Tim, good to see you over here :1992_beer_cheer:

I doubt the Bateau forum will be much help on that one since it is aluminum. That's the one material they don't have expertise with repairs or builds. Strictly F/G, wood, and composites.

Edited by Cracker Larry
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Hello Tim, good to see you over here :1992_beer_cheer:

I doubt the Bateau forum will be much help on that one since it is aluminum. That's the one material they don't have expertise with repairs or builds. Strictly F/G, wood, and composites.

TIM

I had a Grumman 16' most of the floor came out with screws some were rivets.

I used plywood from Home Depot and gave it a couple coats of Thompson's Water Seal, Heavy on the edges.

I cut around the side console. I did not want to get into a problem with it. Screwed the new plywood one more coat of Thompson's and glued down indoor out door carpet from Home Depot.

I sold the boat about 4 years ago and it is still fine.

Transom was good "thank God" that sounds like a big job with the live wells and battery box.

If I were you I would put a trailer jack on it so you could keep the water going out the back also when you have the floor up I would put another AUTOMATIC bilge pump in. You can not have too many.

Good Luck and be safe

Edited by Fishbox22
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I just replaced the transom in a 30 year old 18 foot Sylvan. Not too hard of a job. Remove the aluminum corner trim pieces by drilling out the rivets. Remove the aluminum transom trim by pulling out the nails. Remove the motor well screws, the transom knee bolts, and the transom end bolts from under the well (the bolts are a two man job). Remove the stern eyes.

Cut the gunwale deck that is in the way of removing the old transom. Don't cut it off, just cut a slot at the outer edge so you can bend the metal out of the way. You can use a jig saw with an appropiate blade. Bend the aluminum deck material out of the way. Don't worry about the cut, it will be covered by the trim.

Pry the transom out. Try to pull it straight up so it doesn't bind. If you have some solid wood to work with you can screw in a couple of eye bolts to give yourself something to pull on. The one I did came out pretty easy this way.

I used 3 layers of 1/2 inch marine ply to replace the transom. You can use A/C fir plywood, it's the same wood and glue as marine ply. It's just not as pretty and doesn't have as many plies. Cut the wood to size using the original transom (what was left of it) as a template. I glued it together with waterproof wood glue (Titebond III). Prime the wood with oil based primer and paint with oil based paint. Don't coat with epoxy. Paint will allow the wood to breath while protecting it. Epoxy will seal it. Once it gets wet it will stay wet.

The tolerances for the transom are very close so when you glue the pieces together, make sure you get it really tight. I predrilled the top two layers and used drywall screws into the third layer to draw it down.

Assemble in the reverse of disassembly. I think I had about 19 hours in the job which included some rewiring of the boat.

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What ever plywood you use or ANY wood for that matter , DO NOT use TREATED wood . Coat your wood with multiple coats of thinned out resin so it soaks in good. I would NOT recommend using Drywall screws for other than holding something together then remove them and fill holes with epoxy.

Lets see what others have to say.

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What ever plywood you use or ANY wood for that matter , DO NOT use TREATED wood . Coat your wood with multiple coats of thinned out resin so it soaks in good. I would NOT recommend using Drywall screws for other than holding something together then remove them and fill holes with epoxy.

Lets see what others have to say.

I forgot to mention that I took the drywall screws out after the glue was dry. They are only used to draw the wood down tight.

Also, I don't like using resin on stressed parts if there is no glass along with it. The reason is because the resin can crack and allow moisture in. Once it's in, it never comes out. Paint on the other hand will allow migration of moisture through the membrane, protecting the wood without trapping moisture. Even though epoxy has high elongation and should move with the wood somewhat, I prefer good old fashioned oil paint. You need to put something over epoxy to protect it so just skip the middleman and paint the wood.

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  • 10 months later...

I own a boat fishing tour company out of florida and I just redid a couple of my Nitros and Sylvan Seastars... The best place for parts was definitely Overtons, I redid all of the wiring which was easy with their setups. I tried about four carpet companies and the best bang for the buck is definitely http://www.boatcarpet.com , Its very easy to install and made my boats look awesome.

Good luck redoing your Sylvan! Share some photos when its done!

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