Where to buy marine battery cables

[wilde1j]

Most NAPA stores custom make battery cables to length.

[YachtLights]

Most NAPA stores custom make battery cables to length.

NAPA makes AUTOMOTIVE cables that are designed for CARS. You will have problems using non-marine type cables and you're going to end up spending much more to diagnose the problem and end up getting marine cables at the end. Just do it right from the beginning, it's not that expensive.

[paul h]

Not the cleanest installation, but with 4/0 marine cable crimped and soldered on the terminations, I don't have to worry about not having sufficient current to start my engine.

It wasn't cheap, but a single tow would cost way more than what it did to install it right the first time. Not to mention that I'd rather be fishing than trouble shooting a crappy electrical system.

[Leebert]

Thanks for all the replies! I do not plan to use auto cables, to me that was never an option. I also do not care to make them myself and would rather purchase a ready to install cable. All I need at the moment (that I know of) is about a 12-18 inch cable that ties a couple batteries grounds together. Sounds like there have been many good experiences from genuinedealz. This weekend I will go through the cables and compile a list of what I should replace. Again, thanks for the suggestions.

LB

[yottyboy]

Looking at this pic:

I would recommend that you replace the wing nuts with stainless nuts and lockwashers. Also I'd recommend adhesive lined shrink tubing on the lugs to seal up the joint between the insulation and the crimp. In addition, the wet cell battery should be in a battery box. Also, cap the naked terminals.

[wkearney99]

I would recommend that you replace the wing nuts with stainless nuts and lockwashers. Also I'd recommend adhesive lined shrink tubing on the lugs to seal up the joint between the insulation and the crimp. In addition, the wet cell battery should be in a battery box. Also, cap the naked terminals.

Nothing wrong with using the wingnuts, as they're safer for removing the batteries. I agree about using a battery box for the wet cell battery and capping ALL terminals. Especially if you stop using wingnuts. They sell boots designed for all kinds of connections. I'd consider using the top posts on that other battery instead of the side connections. They make connectors that will grip the posts and then provide a stud for the wingnut type connection. That way everything is connected 'the same way' in the event you need to change batteries around.

You REALLY don't want to leave the chance that anything falling across the terminals could cause a short/spark. Like when holding a wrench and having a wedding ring or wristwatch hit the other terminal. The arc will burn the Hell out of you, in some cases bad enough to lose the finger.

Here's one other suggestion, take steps to secure the wiring. Don't just leave it dangling like that. Wave action will cause the wires to shift around and eventually the motion will cause the connections to break (either at the connectors or internal to the wire). Use some screw-down or adhesive square wire tie mounts.

[wilde1j]

Nothing wrong with using the wingnuts, as they're safer for removing the batteries. I agree about using a battery box for the wet cell battery and capping ALL terminals. Especially if you stop using wingnuts. They sell boots designed for all kinds of connections. I'd consider using the top posts on that other battery instead of the side connections. They make connectors that will grip the posts and then provide a stud for the wingnut type connection. That way everything is connected 'the same way' in the event you need to change batteries around.

You REALLY don't want to leave the chance that anything falling across the terminals could cause a short/spark. Like when holding a wrench and having a wedding ring or wristwatch hit the other terminal. The arc will burn the Hell out of you, in some cases bad enough to lose the finger.

Here's one other suggestion, take steps to secure the wiring. Don't just leave it dangling like that. Wave action will cause the wires to shift around and eventually the motion will cause the connections to break (either at the connectors or internal to the wire). Use some screw-down or adhesive square wire tie mounts.

Best thing you can do with wing nuts is throw them as far as you can when you get a new battery ... replace with ss hex nuts and lock washers, tightened with a socket wrench, but only do this if you care about the connection coming loose under way. BTW, most outboards will fry their rectifier/regulator in a heart beat as soon as the circuit becomes open while running.