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What causes soft floor?


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Went out this weekend on friends Mako 171 which is only about 5 years old and was surprised how much flex some parts of the floor had, especially behind the console. This boat is kept up pretty nicely and doesn't get much if any abuse. He mostly uses it to go out skiing with the kids and stuff like that, nothing hardcore. So my question is what causes this and what can be done about it. I've been around boats most of my life and never experienced this before, and the boats we've had have been used in all sorts of conditions and used in everything from skiing with the family to offshore fishing trips.

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Went out this weekend on friends Mako 171 which is only about 5 years old and was surprised how much flex some parts of the floor had, especially behind the console. This boat is kept up pretty nicely and doesn't get much if any abuse. He mostly uses it to go out skiing with the kids and stuff like that, nothing hardcore. So my question is what causes this and what can be done about it. I've been around boats most of my life and never experienced this before, and the boats we've had have been used in all sorts of conditions and used in everything from skiing with the family to offshore fishing trips.

Generally, delamination between the deck laminate and its core, or, in the case of a solid glass deck, failure of its support system (stringers or grid).

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That doesn't sound to good. I guess it isn't going to be cheap to fix either.

I'm not a fan of the later Makos. My first slip-kept boat was a 1979 Mako 235 that I purchased used, in 1983. I fished her for two seasons before trading up. A week ago, I found that same boat (I checked the HIN), in a nearby boatyard. It's still out there fishing, at the ripe old age of 30. Only time will tell how well the "Morris Makos" will hold up.

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I can't really offer anything more than what's been said as to the reason....delamination of the fiberglass, and saturation of the core material if it is cored.

I can say this....the cockpit deck in my Blackwatch had a balsa core. It became saturated, and it cost $2500.00 to remove the rotted core, install new core, lay new fiberglass, and awlgrip. The deck was roughly 70 square feet.

Another reason could be poor support under the deck. Makos of that era were known for shoddy workmanship and corner-cutting.

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I gotto to agree about the crafsmenship of the Mako's of that era. We bought a Mako 221 about the same time this friend bought his 171 and we had all sorts of problems with the fiberglass in the hull, after alot of discusion with the rep and the factory they replaced our hull with 212. I have to admit they did step up to the plate with our complaints and we ended up being a satisfied customer, but there producto did leave alot to be desired

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I agree with the above posts , not quality craftsmanship and lets not forget the 230lb fat guy [ Me ] bouncing off the waves at 30 knots standing in the same spot on the deck . That's a buttload of pounds , pounding the deck .

Add all that together and wallah , a smushy deck/hatch .

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I agree with the above posts , not quality craftsmanship and lets not forget the 230lb fat guy [ Me ] bouncing off the waves at 30 knots standing in the same spot on the deck . That's a buttload of pounds , pounding the deck .

Add all that together and wallah , a smushy deck/hatch .

The biggest culprit I've found is water intrusion from console screws having been installed without sealant, T Top screws and other deck penetrations start the water issue. When I buy a boat, I remove everything I can and rebed.

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