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ExBailBonds

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Posts posted by ExBailBonds

  1. Your hard work and attention to detail is really paying off. Thats going to be one sweet ride when your done.

    Do you plan to seal up the open end tubes and wiring holes in the t top? I would think a bought using white tub and tile caulk rather then 5200 its easer to work with and would come out a lot easer then 5200 if you need to add a cable at a later date.

  2. At a given temperature setting you want your A/c to run long enough to condense the water in the air and drop the humidity of the cabin. If you have an oversized unit, it will only run a short time each cycle and won't have enough time to circulate enough air through to drop the humidity before it reaches the desired temperature and shuts off, leaving your cabin damp.

    :605_thumbs_up::605_thumbs_up::605_thumbs_up::605_thumbs_up:

    FloridaR is correct. A oversized unit will short cycle and leave the humidity behind. When a home is getting AC a heatload calculation is preformed to keep such things from happing.

    An AC coil will only freeze if air flow thru it is is severely restricted or it has a freon leak.

  3. I spoke to the guy hat will do the job, Unique Coating in Greensboro. He does 5 a week for a major builder. It will run about $175.00 for the top and a little extra for some holes I am going to fill and modify the leening post legs. He also will sand blast the top as prep.

    Boy you sure find some good deals!! I would do it for sure at that price.

  4. Making good progress there king. I love the look of the powdercoat. If done right the powder coat holds up well. The first issue most see with the powdercoat is at the fasteners.

    stainless screws and snaps should have a plastic or rubber washer where they contact the powdercoat to help prevent that. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. :1992_beer_cheer:

  5. Just wanted to clarify the spot isn't for running I use it for getting in the slip and figuring out what that big shadow is in front of me when its dark out.

    :605_thumbs_up: You are one of the smart ones. i was coming in one night a few weeks ago and some yahoo had his spots on like driving lights coming out of the channel. i just stopped and waited for him to go by. I wanted to give him a piece of my mind but my wife was on board and i decided it was not worth it.

  6. Yeah that was my idea too. Figured I'd ask everyone else before I started cutting and running wires.

    Its really the only answer that will work if you want to use it while underway. Not only does the chrome reflect the light back at you the entire deck is illuminated wich blinds you as well.

  7. Alright got a conundrum here that my fried brain cells have yet to find a solution to. I've got a parker 2520xl its a sport cabin. I have a acr remote spot light mounted on top of the cabin which is great until you need to use it. Problem is with all the chrome railing on the bow the spot light reflects back and blinds you at night making it completely useless. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if anyone had found a good solution to it other than mine of just not using the spot light?

    Relocate it to the bow???

  8. That was my bad, I didn't at first read, see the part about being in the bandwidth. However, if one does a little geometry, there is a window where pucks can be mounted flush, yet still meet both guidelines of being no closer than 1 meter to the radome, as well as not being within the beamwidth, which would be 12.5deg below the centerline of the radome.

    Jimmy, it's good to see you. Welcome aboard. :1992_beer_cheer:

    That was my problem the geometry did not go in my favor i had to go above the beam.

    Its all good :1992_beer_cheer::1992_beer_cheer:

  9. Delete the post.

    I am not wanting to start anything either this is just a friendly disscussion. :1992_beer_cheer:

    I got to read your post before the delete. I did a lot of research on this matter when i did my install i belive in the garmin gps manual it states that the attennas are best mounted above the radar beam. That said i know that a lot of people have them mounted below and they do work.

    http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/GPSMAP3005C...nstructions.pdf

  10. Ex,

    Myself? I would have flush mounted the pucks to the hardtop and used a 24" fold-down anchor light t/bolted at the aft end, no mount needed...but that's just me. :1992_beer_cheer: :1992_beer_cheer:

    I believe that is a no no when you have a radar Or so all the MFG instruction manuals say. :1992_beer_cheer::1992_beer_cheer:

    I wanted to put mine flush on the top but researched it at the time and the general consensus was that it was not a good idea

  11. King, your setup looks fine. Different setups for different people.

    Agreed it does look ok and will work. I was just thinking it would look more symmetrical if the antennas would have fit flush on the flat part of the mast. And it would have put his light well above the antennas.

    ALL

    The reason i visit this site and other forums is looking for ideas and suggestions. I believe that was kingairs intention as well. We can all see that his mount it will work however its nice to get other ideas too.

  12. No I see what you mean. If I trim some of the threads off the mount, I could drop it down a bit. I am not sure how high the Sirius antenna is going to be.

    My XM antenna is a puck just like the gps. I have a diffrent kinda of set up let try to post a pic. Xm is is the one on the right.

    Boat019.jpg

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