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-Joe-
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Posts posted by -Joe-
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Too bad..you could have asked them if they solved the corrosion problems on the F225/F250.
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After reading about others, and experiencing myself Mercury's warranty, I'd choose anything other than that. I'll never own another.
E-TEC seems like a great choice, if not going Yamaha.
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If they have been in salt water, you have two options:
1. Paint
2. New aluminum rims.
I guess if it's grease, you could spray some degreaser on them. If not, you could let them just turn all the way black. For some reason, people seem to like their wheels on their cars black nowadays.
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Colts 27, Saints 13
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Ludicrous--I remember this thread and actualy wrote your color combo down in case I ever needed it. I don;t have a yamaha presently (but might again in the near future
)and I remember afterwards you saying you would change the color some? Do you have that new mixture? -
I went through Georgetown on Labor Day weekend, and they were closed then. I was very surprised to see them gone; they've been around a while.
In other news, Hanckel Marine on Daniel Island closed up last week. I heard they auctioned off a lot of their inventory a few weeks prior. Don't know if the West Ashley location is still open.
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Everyone keeps talking about how bad the market is; I'm just wondering what and where they are selling. I pass by a Sea Hunt/ Grady dealer everyday, and they are moving boats OUT of the dealership like crazy.
A coworker just sold his 15' skiff for $1500 more than he paid for it 5 months ago (from dealer). He sold it in a week with an ad on Craigslist. I'm not sure the market ever changed here in SC.
And the OP said something about 20% unemployment...where do you live? Detroit?
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Bleach. Bleach kills everything.
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T-Top Covers will make you a cover to fit anything..literally. You'll just have to pay for it.
They told me the reason they don't cover everything is that it allows air to vent where it connects to the t-top, so it won't mildew/mold inside the boat.
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SeaHunt--good boat for the money. Wiring is a little weak. I'd have Sea Hunt fully foam the hull sides of the boat to cut down on some of the echoing when coming down off a wave. They've done this on some of teh smaller boats; I'm sure they would on the 24 as well.
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DDHand--was that from the Daniel Island store?
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In the long run, the boat will be a lot less expensive.
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I agree--the West Ashley and Mt Pleasant stores are picked over; not much left but bulk hardware. Daniel Island store has been sending all their inventory to the Wilmington, NC store.
I did pick up a Northstar 660 gps/sounder at West Ashley gps for $390--BOE has it for $912.
What's up with boatersworld.com? Are they a different business? Will they stay open?
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I thought about getting one from Wal Mart, but they don't have a Group 24 1000 MCA / 800 CCA battery.
The biggest I saw was a 650 CCA (didn't see the MCA rating), and at only about $20/more, the Batteries Plus 1000/800 sounds like a decent deal.
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My small boat doesn't warrant the cost of AGM's (will never go out of site of land); anyone use the marine batteries from Batteries Plus? I think they are made by Exide - wet cell/lead acid, group 24 1000 MCA/800 CCA $79. Seems like a good buy.
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Starbrite w PFTE. West Marine carries it. Also found it at some Ace Hdwes a little cheaper.
LD
West marine (at least the WM's local to me) have it on sale this week for $4.99 a bottle. I picked up two today.
I saw it in the "10% off closeout" in Boaters World yesterday for $13.99 a bottle. So much for a "liquidation sale".
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yeah, Bayholes are crap. My 22 year old cruiser actually had to have a stern drive replaced and the windows resealed. I guess Sea Rays are crap too because my 20 year old runabout had to have a carb rebuilt and the sterndrive repared. Oh, and the speedometer doesn't work. Someday I'll learn that I need to spend more than a few grand on my boats.
Maybe I did miss my "cornprehension" class, 'cause wasn't OldMercsRule saying how thin the glass was in the "Bayhole"?
And who mentioned a Sea Ray?
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yeah but looking at post #22 which is just before the post about not knowing what a Bayhole is makes a bigger impact.
Not really.
I think the explanation of what it is probably clears up why it had a broke transom.
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Couldn't understand most of your Twain-ism but I assure you off-topic posts will not be encouraged and political type posts not tolerated.
Excellent decision, imo.
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So, a simple yet costly answer to this question is to affix a motor to a transom of any particular boat and either simulate or actually road test it for, oh, I don't know, a million miles or so, with periodic and prolonged dunkings in salt and fresh water, along with offshore high speed running (to simulate real world conditions), same test performed with O/Bs of various weights and HPs, on many different boats...
So where do I apply for this job?
Good solid transom =no worries
Or you ask anyone that trailers a boat over a couple years and doesn't use any transom wedges or sticks to hold it up, and see what their results are.
Most importantly, apparently, the boat shouldn't be a Bayliner.
And there is the first "Bashing of the brands" on reelboating.com
First!
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Whatever; you're the one with a broke bayliner.
Thanks for your permission to carry on.
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No Joe: I submit the answer is yes.
I have a small 16' Bayhole with a 1250 Merc on it that the guy I purchased it from broke the still solid transom, (BTW: that means it is NOT ROTTON), with a 200 mile tow from Lake Chelan to North Seattle, (on relitively smooth roads).
I now tow that same boat with a brace from the bottom of the skaag, (on the LU of the 1250), to the drain hole at the bottom of said now reinforced transom, (with a new 5/16" aluminum wrap).
The engine used to flopp all over the place and stress the cracked tranny and now it is solid in a geometrically stable format that doesn't cause further damage.
Bracing to the trailer seems problematic to me as well, so I guess you could argue that a poorly thought out transom brace could make matters even worse, that still doesn't void a proper OB brace increasing the life of a transom.
Anybody can argue that gravity doesn't werk cause it takes a little time to harm said tranny and since a solid transom can stand some of the punishment you can kid yerself that it is not happening. FACT IS: it is happening, as simple high school geometry will tell ya that if ya think jus' a wee bit.
Me over priced $.02. JR
I don't know what a "Bayhole" is, so I'm not sure it applies. I'll assume from this discussion it's a boat. But you are the first person I've ever heard in 30+ years of boating say they have seen a transom "break" from trailering. I'm not saying it didn't happen or that you are lying; but knowing nothing of the particular boat, or even type of boat, and the fact this is the first one I have ever heard doing so, it makes me think something else was amiss rather than trailering. If it broke going down the road, it was going to break in rough water.
I didn't see anyone arguing about gravity; I certainly wasn't. But I'd agree with those above that said a wedge type device might save the hydraulics more than it does anything for the transom. The weight of the engine "bouncing around" doesn't change whether we are holding it from the hydraulic rams or just having it unsecured. By stiffening the engine's tilt hinge, (and if you'll "think jus' a wee bit"),"FACT IS" you'll see you have created a longer torque arm that forces the transom to flex rather than the flex at the tilt hinge.
All a wedge device really does is attempt to change the engine's pivot point and its moment of inertia in respect to the transom. Ever used a longer pry bar to open something where a shorter one wouldn't? It's called leverage. By creating a longer torque arm (by stiffening the pivot point) we increase that leverage.
I wouldn't be surprised to find out using those devices actually made a transom weaker or more prone to gel coat cracking from the engine rotating about the plane of the transom versus it's intended pivot point of the engine's tilt hinge.
Which would you rather tilt--the engine hinge, or the transom?
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I have to point this out. That means that instead of having a 500 lb outboard bouncing around on the transom, you now have a 4000 lb boat bouncing around on the outboard.
So every time the boat moves up and down on the trailer, you are transferring that force to the outboard??
I just don't buy it, I think these products are nonsense. Has anyone actually seen a transom fail that WASN'T due to good old fashioned rot?
That was my question too, and so far I think the unspoken answer is "no".
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Dan..you're waxing a boat..not a black car.
I think you'd have to try and mess up gel coat. How thick is gel coat anyway..about 20 mils or so? You've got a lot of thickness to use there.
Forum History?
in Boating and Fishing Discussion
Posted
Wiley, could you post a brief history of your original forum and this one?
I've been told the original forum was started in Jan/01, then you shut it down because a boat company threatened to sue? Then in February, you opened it back up?
I don't remember any of that--all I remember was the closure of the SWS forums.