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horseradish

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Posts posted by horseradish

  1. So now her parents are talking to various governments about rescue options. I wonder why they didn't talk to their daughter about the risks inherent in such a venture to one so very inexperienced. I wonder who should be talking to them about CHILD ABUSE! Should someone be talking to them and consoling them for the $$$ opportunities lost in book & video deals.

    I'd like to talk to them and kick their ass's when I got close enough!

  2. All is sound advice given above but I would recommend putting a fuel flow meter on the boat and not worry about the gauge. ..........MHO of course.

    My fuel sender on the Pursuit died 6 months ago. I've got all the replacement parts on hand but can't get the screws fastening the sender to the tank to budge! I haven't given up and almost daily I soak the screws with BP Blaster......

    Meanwhile I've been using the Yam Fuel Management system to keep track of my fuel load. I was told by the Pursuit Customer Service guy that that's the most accurate way to keep track of your fuel anyway...

    I'm just worried my alzheimers is going to kick in while I'm doing the simple math of subtracting fuel used from fuel in tank!

  3. How many forums does this debacle have to pollute? THT, Bloodydecks, iBoats, Florida Sportsman, the list goes on. And the point? Isn't one discussion enough?

    Time to go fishing, swap out motors, upgrade upholstery, get a new kicker, change over to hydraulic steering...ANYTHING BUT ANOTHER CONTENDER THREAD!!!! :1898_:

    Just goes to prove "All would be censors are AH's!" You don't like it, don't read it!

  4. Hello all,

    I've got a quick question about wiring a new bilge pump. The pump is a rule 750 auto which has the float switch built in. The manual wiring is straght forward and runs through a switch.

    My question has to do with the automatic positive wire. The boat has two batteries that are run through a battery switch. My opinion is that the auto function of the pump should be hot wired in a manner so that reguardless of battery switch position the pump should pump if the float switch is triggered. It should be able to run off either battery as well. How should I wire the auto positive wire?

    Thanks,

    Chris.

    I assume you have a selective on/off/1/2/both battery switch. You can hook your positive of the pump to the always hot lug of the switch. Otherwise, connect the pump directly to one of the batteries.

    The advantage of wiring from the switch is that you have two batteries working the pump in your absence! :rolleyes:

  5. Hello all,

    I've got a quick question about wiring a new bilge pump. The pump is a rule 750 auto which has the float switch built in. The manual wiring is straght forward and runs through a switch.

    My question has to do with the automatic positive wire. The boat has two batteries that are run through a battery switch. My opinion is that the auto function of the pump should be hot wired in a manner so that reguardless of battery switch position the pump should pump if the float switch is triggered. It should be able to run off either battery as well. How should I wire the auto positive wire?

    Thanks,

    Chris.

  6. I'm considering adding these smart tabs to my Tidewater 1800 baymax. I'm hoping these will improve holeshot and keep me on plane at lower speeds.

    I'm not sure whether to go with the original stainless steel tabs or with the newer composite SX tabs

    All opinions welcome

    thanks

    Joe

    I put the SS version on a 16' carolina skiff and improved the hole shot and slow speed plane ability immediately. Your choice as to plastic or SS......

    :605_thumbs_up:

  7. I have a Yamaha F225 with a 13-3/4 x 21 prop (original equip) and we ran in some shallows and got it a little chewed up last season. Not bad but I would like to get a new spare. How much should I expect to pay and who should I buy from?

    Thanks for any sugestions.

    John

    I've got at least 6 SS props of different sizes sitting around in my garage. We ought to put together a "clearing house" of used but serviceable props to sell, swap, donate, whatever........

    :605_thumbs_up:

  8. Florida Fish & Wildlife's invest of the boating accident that killed 3 ex football players off Clearwater Pass in Feb was caused by "improper anchoring techniques"!

    "Around 5:30 pm...... {in 60 foot deep rough, 4-6 foot seas, rising 20+ mph winds}...... they went to pull up the anchor and head back to port, but the anchor was stuck. Bleakley suggested they tie it to the transom and use the boat's motor to pull it loose.

    When Cooper tried to thrust the boat forward, the vessel became submerged and capsized, tossing the men overboard."

    The stupidity of those actions totally confound me! I guess I'm just not smart enough to understand the scope of things people do to themselves and other people that cause their deaths

    :504_shrugging: !

    • Like 3
  9. I have a single outboard Sea Star front mount (single) cylinder hydraulic steering set up on my 18 foot Grady 180 sportsman. It seems like the responsivness of the steering is a bit less than when it was new 6 years ago. Never had leaks. Might just need to be sure the fill level is proper. Doesn't feel spongey. Should I just go ahead and bleed the system to be sure there isn't any air in it? Any advice?

    Purists may squawk but adding a small amount of transmission "stop leak" to the cylinder before topping it off will keep your system alive and well for a longer time between adding fluid again.

    Buy the special hose connection kit to make a seal between the refill bottle and the resevior fitting (costs under $5.00). Set up the connection, turn the refill bottle upside down and spin the wheel from left stop to right stop , repeat, repeat, repeat and watch the air bubbles from the system go up into the new fluid refill bottle. When the bubbles stop, close everything up and you're good to go!

    It is NOT rocket science!

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