Cracker Larry

Without a tachometer it will be almost impossible to get the right prop, or to even know if you have the right prop. That engine should be running between 5500 and 6000 rpms wide open, that's where it's rated. If the prop has too little pitch the engine will over rev and could be damaged. If the pitch is too high, the engine can't turn the rpms it needs to make power and you'll be wasting fuel and going slow. Changing props is like changing gears in a car. You need to select a prop that will put the rpms in the power band. Pontoon boats usually require less pitch than other hull types. If I were to take a wild guess, I'd say you'll probably need about a 13 pitch, maybe a 15. It would be worth the $100 to install a tach, it could easily pay for itself in fuel or engine damage. Then find a dealer who will let you try a couple of sizes, prop selection is trial and error. The right pitch will put your engine about 5800 rpms top end.

Yes.

The CG doesn't really have anything to do with it. I would call them if the boat appeared to be recently occupied, as in fresh worms and cold beer, so they could start a search for the missing boaters. Give them a description of the boat and the registration and they'll make phone calls trying to locate the owner or next of kin and get a search underway. Minutes count. If it doesn't give the impression of having been occupied, don't call the CG. Tie a line to her and tow it home. You can take it to your dock, take it to your house, or where ever you want. You want to get it on your property. Then make all reasonable efforts to contact the owner and start negotiations. You have legal claim against the boat until your fee is settled. If the value is high, consult a maritime attorney before doing any negotiations with anyone.

I think I would first stiffen (double) the entire perimeter. If it has a lot of curve this would be easier using plywood. Then run stiffeners fore and aft on 24" centers. The mounting bracket locations will need to be doubled up also. For non-skid I like a product called Kiwi Grip. It goes on with a roller like paint and you control the texture with the roller type and pressure. It does a great job, holds up good and is easy on bare feet. Available in several colors.

Funny this should come up, I found a boat floating free down the Savannah River last week. It had a fresh cup of worms on the bow and a cooler full of iced beer inside, and 2 baited rods I was very concerned that the owner was also adrift. I anchored the boat on a bar, photographed the registration and headed upstream looking for him. Found him about 3 miles up, waving frantically, barefooted, short pants, no shirt in the Savannah River swamp. The mosquitoes were killing him and the gators and snakes had him shook up. He'd just gone ashore to answer a nature call and didn't secure his boat. Dumbass. I was a nice guy, gave him a ride down to his boat, reminded him what bow lines are for. Probably didn't need to tell him that.

It would not actually be "yours" at that point, but you would have the controlling interest and a salvage lien. It would be up to a judge in a maritime court to award a settlement, based on how much danger the boat was in, how much risk it was causing others, how much risk and expense you committed to salvaging it, and other circumstances. In that particular situation, you would probably end up owning the boat and more, unless the insurance company negotiated a deal you could live with. Actually the opposite under maritime law. Any boat drifting freely and unmanned is subject to salvage. It is a danger to itself and creating a danger to navigation. Anyone who puts a line on her has a salvage claim. You can negotiate fees with the owner, the insurance company, or go to court. Or you could be a nice guy Never leave a boat without it being tied or anchored. Not even on a beach. Even if you think it is sinking and you abandon it, throw out an anchor. If you leave it adrift, Sea Tow may soon own it Again, it's not what you demand, it's what a court thinks is reasonable. Salvage fees won't usually exceed the value of the vessel and it's cargo, unless other circumstances are involved, such as you prevented an oil spill which would have cost millions in cleanup. Any case that size will go to a judge and the salvor will get a reasonable settlement. I'm not a maritime lawyer, not by any stretch, but I've done some commercial towing and have some personal experience with salvage laws. They are far different than land based laws.

You certainly could use starboard although I'd consider it low end. Depending on the boat it's going on, it may or may not be appropriate. Not to slight anyone's boat, but if it's going on a Bayliner then starboard would be perfectly adequate. If it's going on a custom Buddy Davis then probably not. The end result has to look good, match the boat in quality, fit and finish, and not damage or devalue the boat.

It would depend on the dimensions, how fancy and the level of finish, but probably in the ball park of $2,000. For the size he is talking about the material costs would be about $700, not including paint. Good paint such as Sterling or Awlgrip will run over $300 a gallon, but worth it. If it were my boat I'd build it from laminated mahogany just because I like the way it looks compared to glass It would actually be less expensive for the materials, but a higher labor element. Something like this...

I disagree. I build custom composite boats, glass over marine plywood, and they will last your entire life and your children's. I guarantee them for life. The trick is to use epoxy resin, not polyester, and a good marine plywood. Polyester resins are not waterproof, which is why you see so many rotten transoms and stringers in production boats. Water actually wicks through polyesters over time, this is what also causes hull blisters. Manufacturers also use cheap A/C exterior plywood as a core. When it gets wet it will delaminate and rot. If you use BS1088 meranti plywood and good epoxy resin such as System3 Silvertip, it will last 3 lifetimes longer than the hull of a production boat. Foam core will work, but it will require much more fiberglass and resin than a wood core and may end up being heavier and certainly more costly than a marine ply core, and not as strong. It will also require more support structure. If you mold it and use a solid glass lamination, it will be 4 times heavier than a meranti core and only half as strong. I'd use 1/2" marine plywood core with a few 1X2 yellow pine or mahogany stiffeners, glassed with 2 layers of 12 oz. biaxial cloth. Once it's glassed you'll apply a couple of coats of epoxy based fairing compound, sand it smooth, prime with an epoxy primer such as System3 Yacht Primer, then finish with the paint of your choice.

Yes

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/S-D-52004...e%20Wrench.html

Every Rule pump uses marine grade wire.

I also like to run them close, 15-30 feet back. It depends on your fishing method too. For billfish we usually use the bait and switch method, pulling up the teaser and replacing it with a pitch bait when a fish is raised.

No problem, that's what discussions are for No, you're not wrong. I've inspected quite a few of them. In the end, that's how boats are usually chosen. It fits your needs, fits your family, fits your budget, the wife likes the head and the color of the cushions. As long as it's not in a dangerous condition and you don't mistake it for an offshore boat, you'll get years of enjoyment out of her. We must also hope the previous owner didn't mistake it for an offshore boat, and over stress the hull at some point in time. I was commenting from a purely technical aspect, and probably only a marine surveyor judges boats purely in a techniclal manner. If the boat is used I would recommend a survey. If you buy a boat with a rotten transom, separated stringers, or delaminated hull, it will cost thousands in repairs.

No offense to your boat, but that is a complete contradition. No well built boat will use automotive grade wire. It is in violation of USCG and ABYC standards. If they cut corners on something as important as wiring, they cut a lot more corners that you can't see This is a fact. Aquasport, Sea Swirl and Proline are reasonably equal in quality. Decent middle of the road boats. Trophy is last. No offense meant to anyone, most think the boat they chose is a good one, and they are often picked because the wife likes the head rather than the quality of construction. For reference, I'm a custom boat builder and a small craft marine surveyor. My recommendation would be to get a survey before buying anything, especially if it's used. Even if all 3 of those brands left the factory as theoretically equal in quality, there could be all kinds of issues that develop over time. I'd survey a boat like that for about $250, to give you a price idea, and it could save you thousands, or at least guide you towards making an informed decision. I'm not soliciting the business, just making a suggestion. Good luck with your purchase!

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On the trim cylinder about 3/4 of the way up towards the starboard side there is a large hex head bolt. That's where you add fluid. I'd use Yamaha trim tilt fluid, but I know others who use Dexron II hydraulic fluid. Open the bleed valve on the starboard side of the leg and manually raise the engine and engage the trailer lock. Close the bleed valve and add fluid until it runs out. Cycle it a few times and top it off again. You may be low on fluid or have air in the system, although it's self bleeding. If that doesn't fix it, it will need new seals and a check valve. You can buy a trim cylinder rebuild kit with everything you need. seals, valves, wipers, O-rings for under $100 or a shop can rebuild it for about $250. There are also additives for hydraulic fluids that can, maybe, expand the seals and temporarily stop the leak, but ultimately you need new seals and check valve, or you can maybe just add fluid once a month or so and live with it, depending on your disposition with such things.

Here ya go http://www.stormpulse.com/fullscreen/current

If you have an Interstate Battery store near you, they carry the Optima AGM for less than $200. They can also ship one to your door for $198 off the web.

Most boats do run better with a little more HP than they are rated for, as long as you don't get too heavy with the engines. That being said though, exceeding the capacity plate rating can get you banned off the water and fined if you have a vessel inspection, and it will most likely void your insurance. If you are unlucky enough to have a boating accident, the prosecuting attorney will portray you as a reckless and non-comforming wild man who is a danger to those around you. You'll lose, no matter what actually happened. Now, I'd never suggest this, but custom capacity plates can be ordered over the internet

Fantastic! Thanks. I'll be sending you an email for a high res version. I assume would would like to start with a high res original?

Hello, I'm a brand new member and this is my first post. Thank yall for having me! That's fantastic work Armando. If you haven't reached your limit, I'd really like to see what you can do with this. My son Chris with his first cobia. Thank you very much!