BMarkey

Count me in! BTW the small packs can be purchased at the counter inside Boat Owners Wearhouse on U.S. 1 in Riviera Beach, just south of Blue heron Blvd.

Here are the details: http://www.pbcgov.com/parks/locations/peanutisland.htm Sometimes the pavilions appear to be reserved, but every time we got there early enough, we got and kept one. The grills are first come, first served. Watch the rocks on the shore at the east side of the island. Anchor, don't beach the boat there. Have a great time.

I received mine yesterday. Thanks! I'll be using it as of tomorrow. Will it also keep morons away from our boat?!

Have you hit 12 yet? Thanks for the sponsorship.

I tilted the boat and got the water to the bottom of the tank. I emptied the tank a couple of times. Each time, water would get back in. My assumption is that it was sitting atop the gas tank after either leaking in through the deck plate (just above it), or getting in through a forward compartment and working its way to a low point atop the gas tank, right by the sending unit. I replaced the sending unit and gasket and sealed the deck plate, but some water is still sitting atop the gas tank after each rain/cleaning. I replaced the deck cap O-ring, but even that didn't help, so maybe I will just swap out the entire plate. It does appear that the new sending unit/O-ring is keeping the water out of the tank, for now. I was thinking of sealing the sending unit with 5200.

I wound up rebuilding all four carbs, with the assistance of the class and instructor. It went well. I continued to have water problems in the fuel until I discovered that water was sitting atop the plastic tank after it dripped from the deck plate onto the sending unit. I re-sealed the plate and bought a new O-ring fr it, but a little water is still dripping in from rain and when I wash the boat. I also replaced the sending unit and gasket and so far, so good with the engine, but I need to figure out what to do to keep the water from getting to the top of the tank and just sitting there. Thanks.

I need the part of the Johnson 115 (year 2000) engine cover latch that glues into the interior rear of the cowling and hooks into the lower engine cover. The glue failed and mine was lost. The OMC dealer is quoting me a price of $100 or more. I will not do that. Even at Crowley, the parts are not cheap. http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/37752.cfm I need part numbers 7 and 12 Can anyone point me in the right directions, even to a crummy old cover that still has the needed parts intact?

Before assuming the tank was bad (might still be), we tested the deck cap (plate?) above the sending unit (between the center console and the stern) and found that a small drip of water was making it through the seal, right onto the sending unit. Mine is the push-in type. Water was getting in between two of the screws, perfectly hitting the edge of the sending unit below. The water (from rain or wash-down) would then pool around the sending unit gasket. I assume (and hope) that was the source of the problem. I replaced the sending unit and gasket, and last night, removed the deck cap and sealed it with silicone. I jacked the boat up very high to forced any water to the rear and the boat ran great on the main tank. I'll water test it today. BTW, I discovered my tank does not have a vent; only a vented cap. My fingers are crossed.

I have changed my 10-micron filter numerous times. The vent is as it has always been (10 years), but it is not angled and does not have protection. I need to have the tank tested, if that is even possible.

I would appreciate some advice regarding a continuing, frustrating water-in-gas issue. My year 2000 115 Johnson's plastic, permanent gas (Wellcraft 190 Fisherman) tank became mostly filled with water (some gas) after a huge rain storm, because I had left the deck cap off and was in the middle of replacing the fuel sending unit. I pumped out what I thought was all the water in the gas and refilled. The engine ran fine after draining the carbs - until I water tested it and the boat tried to plane. I guess the remaining water settled to the bottom rear of the tank and was picked up by the pickup tube. Not successful. Next, I drained the tank completely - after placing the boat on a sharp angle to force all liquid to the rear - and added a few gallons of fresh gas. Again, the engine ran fine on the hose and at the ramp, but I still had the water issue while trying to plane. Then I went into the tank through the top-sending unit hole and sucked what little else was in there using a copper tube attached to a siphon hose, attached to a primer bulb. I stuck pieces of towel in there and mopped up what I could see that was left. We rebuilt the carbs, changed the fuel filter several times and added a few gallons of fresh ethanol gas. Success! I then added 6 gallons of non-ethanol gas (at a marina, at $4 per gallon) and had a great day on the water. Friday, confident the problem was behind me, I added around 9 more gallons - this time from Wal-Mart (ethanol) and took the boat out. It ran great, until I tried to plane it and had the same issue. I pumped out the tank again and found a gallon or more of water in there. At least I think it was water. The substance appears whitish/cloudy and sits at the bottom of the gallon milk jug into which I siphoned each gallon. The gas is yellowish and rises to the top. So, water is getting in (is in there somehow), but how?! The sides/bottom of the tank do not leak because gas does not leak when I add it. The vent has been the same and the boat has been used and stored the same for eight years. I see/smell no gas in the bilge. The deck cap above the sending unit is old and the boat has a closed transom, so water does build up around the deck cap for short periods of time during/after rain and when cleaning. Water could be getting onto the top of the flattop tank. We had a lot of rain the night before my latest disastrous water test. Could water be leaking through the deck cap (old O-ring) onto the sending unit, which is properly installed but old (maybe a bad gasket)? Could the top of the plastic tank have a crack (unlikely?) and be letting rain/wash water drip down into the tank? Wouldn't that be the least likely place for a leak? I am frustrated beyond belief - especially after rebuilding the carbs and doing a complete tune-up. If it's the tank, How much am I looking at to have the 60-gallon tank cut out (easy to access) of the deck, replaced and re-glassed? I am in Southeast Florida. Thanks, all. Update: I bought a portable tank and filled it with ethanol gas and ran it to the engine, via the water separator. I had no trouble with the engine on Sunday. So, it's not a motor issue. For the first time, though, I smelled gas. I figured it was because of the portable tank or the bilge (in which I had spilled a little gas while changing the fuel filter). Then I opened the floor hatch just in front of the center console and got a strong smell of gas from there. That area is well forward of the gas tank and fuel lines. I guess there is some gas in the hull that hasn't made its way out yet. The boat allows drainage to the front when hooked to my truck. I put 3 1/2 gallons of gas in the inboard tank with the thought that I would try using it today, but we were having fun and I did not switch to the inboard tank. I will siphon out that gas and see if all the gas is still there. If there is a leak in the lower part of the tank, it's a small one. I would appreciate references on people who will cut out my tank and replace and re-glass it.

'Anyone out there taking their boats to SunFest in downtown West Palm this weekend? http://www.sunfest.com Last year: http://www.youtube.com/user/SoFlaTrojan#p/u/13/4wyq5F4kSHQ http://www.youtube.com/user/SoFlaTrojan#p/u/15/2uHsvgdOWK4 http://www.youtube.com/user/SoFlaTrojan#p/u/18/jnc604P-KOc http://www.youtube.com/user/SoFlaTrojan#p/u/19/KMIUmoEZMOI We'll be there, especially for the South's largest fireworks show Sunday afternoon and night. Let's raft up.

I am still fighting with a water-in-the-tank issue. In two water tests in the Intracoastal last weekend, the engine would fail when I went to a plane. Water was clogging the fuel as the boat angle changed. I emptied the tank (completely, in a long, tedious process) yesterday and dumped little bits of water out of the filter several times today. We rebuilt the four carbs tonight without incident ($108 in parts), so tomorrow I hope to be on the water in a perfectly running 115 Johnson. 'Fingers are crossed.

The engine has been running well - in the yard. So, I took it out today from Currie Park in West Palm Beach (those "helpers are back in force and are pains in the ass). All was fine until I tried to get in a plane. The engine lost power, then sputtered, then died. That was it. Luckily, I had gone south and the wind blew us all the way back, right to the ramp. I didn't figure that I still had some water in the tank, and that when the boat's steep angle caused the gas to move to the rear of the tank, the water would be fed right to the engine. So, I pumped and pumped out the gas again (from the primer bulb), getting a half-gallon or so of water in all. All looked good, but I went ahead and emptied the tank, putting the "good" gas aside for use in the mower and weedeater. I bought some Star-tron for the heck of it and in 8 fresh gallons of gas. I drained the carbs, drained the fuel filter a couple of times and then installed a new filter. The engine came back to life and kept running, even when I tilted the boat on a crazy angle to force everything to the back of the gas tank. Now, will it run in the water?!

In another thread, I had a lot of trouble with getting my 115 Johnson started afer sitting ahile and getting a lot of water in the gas. I wanted you all to know that taking the adult-ed marine engine maintenance class at South Tech Academy in Boynton has so far been very helpful. In the first three of nine three-hour classes, I have checked the compression (solid at 150), spark, fuel (had to pump a lot of water out, dump the fuel filter and replace the filter, primer bulb, etc.) and carbs. We drained the four carbs and since then, the engine has run well. On Thursday, we removed the lower unit and replaced the impeller, cleaning up the water pump, plate, etc. (It's a good thing I did this, because the old impeller was really chewed up. I had to cut it apart to remove it. It pumped fine and I had no problems, but that disaster was not far off.) And new lower unit grease was installed. The teacher blew out the water pressure hose and found the gauge to be bad. Anyway, I have wanted to remove the carbs and clean them. The teacher agreed until he heard the engine and said they didn't need to be rebuilt. He recommended that I buy the complete kits if I wanted to re-do them (after he had a mess with another student's gaskets, etc.) Anyway, here is the question: Take off and try to clean up the carbs really well; buy four kits and rebuild them; or leave them alone until I have trouble? My first thought was to do the carbs just for the sake of my knowledge and the class? Your opinions? BTW, where is the least expensive place in SoFla to buy the carb kits?

I've got some serious grease/oil stains on my non-skid and hull - from my hands and feet during recent engine work. Neither car wash, typical soap products, nor Barkeeper's Friend will get the stains out. Any help will be appreciated. The hull is also very dull and flaky. What's the least expensive and best way to prepare the hull and then wax - without having to buff? Thanks.

Wow. More good advice. I now wonder about a stuck choke valve. Here is the latest. I did get a new primer bulb. Not the problem. I also replaced the hose between the primer bulb and engine. After that, fuel started coming through the line and into the engine, but again, only some fuel and the bulb would not get solid. Then I lifted the entire bulb/hose assembly while pumping and when the part of the hose between the bulb and fuel filter bent, the bulb suddenly got solid. So, maybe that section of hose has a slight crack (not enough for gas to leak, but enough to keep proper suction from happening)? I guess I can replace that section as well, but that will require running hose into the stern and up to the "out" port of the fuel filter. It won't be easy. It's difficult to get to. Anyway, when the bulb got solid, the engine started right up and ran roughly but for a few minutes. The it died again and would not start no matter what I did, and the bulb was still full. So, I guess I have some sort of engine/carb problem and a fuel line problem? What a mess.

Thanks so much. Your fuel pump comment worries me. It could be bad but still working? Ugh. Here are some more details. - I removed and replaced the Sierra filter (10-micron but without the water collector "bulb" thing) several times, each time dumping the fuel out of it and refilling it with fresh gas. It sounds like I wasted my time there. - The engine only ran reasonable smoothly at the higher RPM. I was able to rev it up past 2000 RPM a couple of times, only after pumping the primer bulb. Some gas was coming through the bulb/line, but the line only a few times (when I kinked the hose) got stiff, then would go flat again. When I was able to gas gas to pump through the primer bulb, at times has would flow out of the lower left carb and into the engine housing. - I removed and reseated the sending unit. The gasket is fine. It is tight enough and wont leak any gas. I think I might have the wires crossed because the tank reads full and it is at best 1/4 full. - I am headed out to buy a real Racor now, but West Marine doesn't have one for my engine. - Here is the deal. I cannot get the primer bulb to get hard much if at all. Right now, no amount of pumping works. The engine will now once again not start. It acts like it is not getting gas. When I would pump the bulb, I would see some gas coming through and I could even see it enter the engine where the fuel line is attached to the front of the motor. Some would leak out of the carb. But now, I cannot get the bulb to pump any gas. I cannot find any leak of gas through the lines from the tank to the motor mount area to the motor. I wonder of there is an air leak that is causing the primer bulb to fail, or is the bulb just bad, or are one of the fuel lines bad. I plan to buy a new primer bulb (no obvious cracks) and try that first. if a fuel line has a tiny leak of air, would that cause the problem? I see no gas leak in the lines. I added more gas to the tank and checked to make sure it was not dry or had a leak. It seems fine. The best the engine ran was when I kept it running with one hand on the throttle and another pumping the bulb. I had it running for around 20 minutes. Now nothing. I wonder whether I had a fuel quality problem and now have developed a primer bulb and/or fuel line problem. Both are around 10 years old. Thanks.

Thanks ... 1 p.m. Update: The engine would not top 1900 RPM. Even when I kept it running with the throttle-jiggering thing atop the engine, it was rough and slow. The primer bulb was still only half full, so I started pumping it while the engine was running. The engine responded by revving up to 2500 RPM and sounding pretty normal. I got it to rev and run pretty smoothly from the helm control. I thought I was getting out of the woods ... then ... the engine died and now it's acting like it has no gas, again. I can hear the gas going into the carb when I squeeze the primer bulb, but it doesn't completely fill and now I'm back to square one with no start at all. UGH! Another stupid question: Does the gas tank have to be air tight? When I installed the new sending unit, I tightened down the nuts from the sending unit top into the plastic gas tank and some of the foam-like O-ring/washer thing came out to one side. Probably no big thing, but I thought I'd ask. I wonder whether I should take off the fuel filter and fill it again.

I have a year 2000 115 Johnson with relatively low hours. It will not run after several months of sitting idle. I would appreciate suggestions on how to fix the issue. Here is the story ... I did not properly seal the deck cap above the gas tank recently after installing a new fuel sending unit. Then came the monsoon rains for two days here in SoFla. My CC's closed transom became filled with water when the scuppers clogged. (Stupid, I know.) The water built up and drained right into the gas tank through the deck cap, overflowing the tank. I discovered the mess when the dog came into the house smelling like gas after playing near the stern. I drained the tank as much as possible with a siphon hose, then added SeaFoam and 25 or so gallons of fresh gas. I replaced the Sierra fuel filter and spark plugs. The engine never ran when water was in the tank. For two days, I could not get the engine to do more than sputter and most of the time it would seem to not get any gas. I pump and pump and pump the primer bulb. Once it got hard and the rest of the time is gets stiffer but still allows me to pump it and I hear gas going to the engine. No matter how much I pump, it does not completely fill. I have removed and emptied the Sierra filter (no clear bulb) several times. I then add fresh gas to the filter. I found a little screen filter inside a white cap I unscrewed from the front of the engine. It appears to be where the gas line enters the engine. The filter seemed fine. I checked the fuel lines as best I could to check for leaks, etc. Nothing found. Noon Update: The primer bulb will just not get solid like it used to get. I jiggled the lines, checked them out as best I could and pumped like hell, but the best it gets is a little hard, with the ability to still squeeze gas through it. I did get the engine to sputter, then run very, very roughly. It only runs when I manually jigger the throttle on top of the engine, and even then, I can only keep it running for around a minute. I was getting the RPMs to around 1,000. Now I can get them to around 1800, but that's it. The engine will not rev faster than that. Nasty black goo is coming out of the bottom of the outdrive. The engine had not run for several months before this. When I was pumping the primer ball, I did notice fuel coming out of the bottom left cylindrical opening. Carb exhaust? ??? So, should I just continue pumping and babying it? Should I buy some sort of "dry gas" or carb cleaner to add to the gas? Is it easy to open up the carbs and shot gas into them? Should I fill the tank with good gas to make sure the gas/leftover water mix is overwhelmingly gas? Should I continue to empty and refill the Sierra filter? Will the engine eventually recover and run on its own? What does this red lever and valve do? I bled the valve and fuel came out. I plan to take the outboard motor service and maintenance class at SouthTech Academy starting this week in Boynton Beach. I guess I have a great practice subject. Thanks for any advice.

Well ... I went through one hell of a time dealing with this today. I pumped the tank almost dry (can still see a slight bit of liquid in there, even after tilting the boat way up) and had 30 or so gallons of the mess. It smelled very little like gas (I think I wound up dumping most of the gas in the first 12 gallons), so I decided to dump it all. I went back to the SWA transfer station where they accept everything from old electronics to oil and recyclables. I saw the gasoline bin, but it stated that I must leave the jug. There was nowhere to pour the gas. The employees offered no help or advice, so I went to find cheap jugs to fill and leave. I was not going to leave six newish 6.5-gal. gas cans as the county required. I was unsuccessful and even stopped at a local fire station for advice. They had none. So, I went back to the SWA to scrounge for 5-gal jugs in the recycling deposit area. That's when I ran into a boat mechanic dumping oil (yes, there is a tank for old oil). We found an empty 55-gal drum and set it up to handle my gas mix. Then we poured it and he laughed and said it was all water! I knew it was mostly water. It irks me that when someone wants to be a good environmental citizen, he has to jump through insurmountable hoops. The guy who doesn't care just dumps his mix in the yard! Wake up, palm Beach County! Thanks for your advice. I now plan to put a good bit of gas in the tank and use the gas dry stuff. Should I change the fuel filters/separator can (oil filter-like thing)? The engine never ran with this mix. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

'Any coupons or discounts?

I'll be there Saturday and will make a bunch of pictures and link them here.

That is what I want to know? Who would do that? Gas station? Auto parts place?

Sorry for your troubles, but I saw boats at the south dock just before and perhaps even during the fireworks. Those boaters I saw (mainly on the center, main dock) appeared to be very happy with the set-up. I do know that city and area officials have said the waterfront and docks were designed with the Palm Beach International Boat Show and SunFest in mind.

I don't know. It came from either Costco or Murphy Oil.