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tmartin000

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Posts posted by tmartin000

  1. Well wait a minute...When the E80 sends out your position on the single output nmea0183, up to three devices CAN see that (listener). So technically you can have an autopilot-Gladiator and a DSC radio BOTH seeing your position. The problem comes into play when there is only INPUT--That means only one person can talk...! The Gladiator will provide HDG (heading) and that's a pretty nice feature. So, a multiplexer will allow three devices talk on ONE input. I bought the one below and it worked very good see below..

    I have a mostly new Raymarine Heading sensor w/the fluxgate compass I can sell cheap. Used less than one year (6mo's) The boat was upgraded with an x10 Ray AP with the heading sensor built-in. There is a NMEA input line on the heading sensors box. As long as the input was an infrequent DSC input, I bet it would function as a limited multiplexer...THAT would fix your problem...New they were $600,.... online $400..... I would sell mine for $275.

    http://brookhouseonline.com/nmeamux_aisc.htm

    Looks like a good brand. I had a chance to go looking through the wire nightmare for any sign of a Seatalk box, and I don't have one. I think they used a cross over cable and everything else just plugs in to the MFD (besides NMEA). So, I'll save my coin and not install a Smart Heading Sensor just yet. If I come down for Newport's halibut raid, maybe for a few cool ones you could take a look?

    At times I feel like ripping out all the old wiring and starting over. I did find what I think is a NMEA block, where different devices are attached without the need for triple or quadruple crimps. If I find a skinny 8 year old that does wiring maybe I can reach those tiny wires to trace what device they come from, nothing is labeled!! From the colors on the wires and listing the radio, gladiator and MFD colors maybe I can deduce which device is hooked to which.

  2. Well wait a minute...When the E80 sends out your position on the single output nmea0183, up to three devices CAN see that (listener). So technically you can have an autopilot-Gladiator and a DSC radio BOTH seeing your position. The problem comes into play when there is only INPUT--That means only one person can talk...! The Gladiator will provide HDG (heading) and that's a pretty nice feature. So, a multiplexer will allow three devices talk on ONE input. I bought the one below and it worked very good see below..

    http://brookhouseonline.com/nmeamux_aisc.htm

    post-390-126897959221_thumb.jpg

  3. I've got a E80, and an ICom 502A with DSC. So, can anyone tell me if I'm using my Gladiator to travel to a waypoint and I try to trade positions with another boat, will the E80 show the other boat's position on the plotter? I'm trying to make sure everything is working OK, and have traded position requests before with the other boat showing up, but noted that while using the AP the other boat never appeared on screen.

    Ok here's the skinny. There is only one in and one out for the E or C classic series. So, If you have the Raystar 125 GPS antenna hooked up via SEATALK then you have one nmea0183 in and 1 nmea0183 out. If the VHF is recieving a signal for the only output from the E Series, (of which you can have three listeners--AP, VHF, Etc.) then that leaves a single input. Here's the rub. If the Gladiator is sending a heading signal to your E series plotter, then you cannot have the plotter RECIEVE a DSC from the VHF INTO the E Series... Only one talker at a time. If what I described is what your doing, you need a nmea0183 multiplexer. It will take in up to three devices and then buffers them all for single output.

    Call me if you get lost. pm me for my number.

  4. I have a lowrance lcx17c, i wasnt happy with the depth range and the temperature was not working, so a few months ago i replaced the transducer with the best one available (split freq. and highest wattage or whatever) the depth range i'm now very happy with, however the temperature still doesnt work, is there a seperate ducer? there is a small piece of metal in the ducer which i assumed was for temp, but maybe not. the reading i'm getting on my screen is 32 degrees (flashing i think)

    any help is appreciated. :1992_beer_cheer:

    Thanks

    Sounds like software to me....get the latest upload from LOWrance and reflash the unit. If that doesn't fix it, and all the plugs are plugged in correctly, it must be a bad unit.

  5. Jim--

    Thank you for all your help over the phone.

    Made a decision...I went ahead and ordered a ProNautic 1240. Even though it is only a 3-bank charger. I decided to change the "house" switch back to a single battery output and put the two house batteries in parallel. The charger will be mounted in the driest location I have left. I will remove the drivers side panel and 5200 a 3/4" marine plywood to the outter bulkhead and mount the charger on it. It will likely be a fairly dry install--at least there will be zero water anyway. Humidity at worst. :605_thumbs_up:

    I will be posting pics as the process goes forward.

  6. I would consider myself a salty guy and frequently do 40mi trips to the "Big Blue" EACH way. I can't imagine ever doing trips like that without two motors. If I was out there with a kicker (8-15hp) motor, I would be doing basically 4-5mph. Now do the math....that's a 9-10 hour trip home! Screw that!! :2261_high:

    Nope, I want a second BIG motor! :1946_headbanging:

    As a matter of fact, I looked for months to find the boat I did. So it wasn't a coincidence I have two big Honda's.

  7. oops.

    Thanks for catching that Jim.

    Lets try this again...

    Yes it's the Seaswirl 2600.

    Here's what I have. The boat will be a show boat and a hard core offshore boat. I will have some 30K worth of electronics and will likely be powered up by 110v through your charger--one of them. I would suspect some 20-30amps (maybe 30) continuous while at the dock.. There are 4 batt's. All 4 are Blue Top AGM's. One bat for each OB Honda BF150. Two for house through a modified BEP717 cluster with dual VSR's. Rather than a simple single batt switch for "house", I changed to a 1+2 or both switch. I need independant charging of each of the four batts. Likely underway, each VSR will be charging one of the house batts. (of course that will depend on the switch setting)

    I am getting creative and am adding a 110 panel in a water resistant enclosure. I don't plan on watering my boat below the throttle area where the panel will go..

    As far as a dry compartment, well, that may only be possible if I add things behind the gunnel. That may be a bad idea..So, that's why It figured it should be waterproof. Striper's aren't really waterproof..Ha Ha But If I DID mount inside a difficult place to get to, then I would def need a status monitor...worth a look!

    Now that I decided a 4 bank charger, which one do you reccommend? Waterproof or non-waterproof?

    The panel below is the 12v BEP cluster--with a diff "house sw"

    post-390-126635942892_thumb.jpg

  8. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Is anyone here using the Raymarine C Series Widescreen yet? If so, I would appreciate your comments, pro & con. Thanks.

    Got mine 6 weeks ago.

    Damn fast unit with the Plat + chip. Definetly faster than E series.

    They made huge strides with the nmea0183 ins and outs. Now it's like Garmin. VERY nice improvent 3 ins/outs.... Seatalk is now in the same bundle too, seperate though.

    GPS internal is the best I've ever used. Shoots through my metal cabin. HDOP of 1.0 everytime.--even seen a .9!

    Cons, price.

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