seahorse

With the steering link disconected from the motor, is it still hard to turn by hand? If so, then the upper bushing may have been a victim of lack or maintenance. If so, sometimes a propane torch warming the area -- use precautions, care, and common sense with an open flame around a motor -- can liquify some of the lube so it migrates into the bushing area. That is a very common problem with older Merc motors and the same procedure sometimes helps. If the motor is easy to turn while disconnected, then the cable, ram, or tilt tube is causing the problem.

just go to www.shop.evinrude.com then click on parts, Johnson, the year and model, then look up what you need. Part Number: 5032682 Description: PLUG,WATER Pack Qty: 1

Read your owners manual or call Yamaha customer service. Both say NOT to run the motor using only the hose attachment on the engine. Using ear-muffs on the gearcase is the only way to run the motor out of water, according to the factory.

Read your owners manual and talk to your dealer's service manager or trained technician. In a nutshell, the engine gets a checkover, compression test, filter changes, computer diagnostic report, water pump, gear oil, and plugs, if needed. The engine is then run to check its operation and for proper engine temperature at idle (thermostats and pressure relief valve). A thorough dealer will also check for any service bulletins and software updates that may apply to your motor.

If you have a Johnson or Evinrude, the transom bolt torque is 40 ft. lbs. The factory does not recommend the use of adhesive sealers such as 3M 5200. Use a good bedding compound such as 4200, Life Calk, etc.

On a stern drive that is true on some, but on the outboard in question, the tach has its own circuitry inside the regulator and does not affect the ignition system. It runs on alternator pulses, not on ignition pulses like a car or an inboard engine does.

No, only certain 4 strokes and the HPDI motors have that capability

If no spark you have to troubleshoot the system instead of "poke and hope" type of fix. Don't overlook problems in the kill circuit, the black-yellow wire. Test stator also

Sneezing is from running lean but do not overlook engine temperature. The engine is designed to idle at around 140° so use an infrared temp gun to check the cylinderhead temperature and to make sure the thermostat is operational. Also carbon stuck rings affect the idle and a can or two of Evinrude Engine Tuner run through it and allowed to soak overnight helps in a lot of cases. Make sure the carb synchronization and linkage is adjusted correctly and that the throttle plate is completely closed at idle. The carb of course has to be adjusted correctly, clean and no varnish or buildup in any of the passageways or jets. Gaskets and seals have to be in good shape also.

Check your state's boating laws, get a sign-off from your insurance company, and talk to your lawyer before mounting that motor. If you ever get into an accident or personal injury situation, the plaintiff's attorney will be sure to paint you as a reckless boater who doesn't care for the law, disregards Coast Guard regulations and the boat manufacturer's design limits, and a danger to the boating community, even if the larger motor was not at fault. Keep that in mind.

For many years Yamaha sold the Racor type filter and bowl with their name on it. Check the Yamaha accessory catalogs. Now several other companies have come out with their filter and bowl designs since ethanol fuels have water problems. I like the Yamaha tall 10 micron filter but it does plug up quickly if you have problems with your tank. That is why Yamaha says to change it every 50 hours. The Racor traps many larger particles in the bottom of the bowl so they do not contribute to filter clogging and Racor has a large filtering area so it will last a long time. They do make a vacuum gauge to show when the filter is getting close to replacement time, but it is always a good idea to replace it at the required 100 hour service intervals that most outboards and inboards have.

Denny, ONLY the new 25hp and 30hp E-TECs are built in China - all the others, 40hp up to 300hp, are built in Wisconsin, USA

There is a shift interrupter switch mounted to the motor's shift lever but it is probably working fine. Most likely there is stiffness in the engine shifting linkage, bushings, or gearcase and that is triggering the switch. The easiest way to find out is to disconnect the control cable at the motor and shift the motor with your fingers. If it is stiff or hard to shift manually, then you have to remove the gearcase and find out where the problem is. In salt water envinronments, often the corrosion buildup at the shift rod cover squeezes against the sealing oring for the shift shaft.

You didn't give much information for a specific answer. Did this just start, and if so, what was done to the boat or motor prior to the problem? What model number motor? What is the water pressure at the various rpms? What is the motor's history? What boat? Has the dealer done anything yet? Which warning light comes on, the HOT or the CHECK ENGINE?

This link has a good article on filters and how they work http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/fuelFilter.pdf

Besides a stuck throttle arm or throttle shaft in a carb, check for loose or broken springs around the carburetor throttle shafts. If a spring breaks, comes loose, or loses tension, the air flowing through the carb while the motor is running can force the throttle plates to stay open, even though the cable is pulled back to idle. Another area to check is the spark advance plate (timer base) under the flywheel to see if it is stuck or jammed into the full advance position

Most dealers do not business by email, a phone call is quicker. If you don't have a local dealer to support go to www.shop.evinrude.com and click on the PARTS section and choose your category to look up and order Johnson-Evinrude parts online. There are a number of dealers who will sell parts online, carry a good stock, and are great to deal with.

Johnson and Evinrude have used the same safety switch clip on their products for the last 13 years. Part number 176288 for $12.66 is the one that fits onto the keyswitch and physically turns the ignition to OFF when it is pulled. Are you telling us that every dealer you contacted did not know what a "kill switch" lanyard was for one of their products?

Most late model gas inboards and stern drives have electronic ignitions and electronic fuel injection systems all monitored by an onboard engine computer, commonly called an ECU. A laptop or handheld device is needed to troubleshoot the systems, just like new high tech outboards. Your cars and trucks are the same way.

Get the Sierra filter assembly, the stainless steel one is best, and then you can use the regular cheap spin-on filters, the Yamaha long 10 micron filter, or the Racor filter element kit that fits the Sierra bracket. If you buy a Racor filter assembly, then you can ONLY use the special Racor filter cannister.