petrel

I guess it would be preferable over installing an auxillary fuel tank and running a shock treatment through the engines? Of course if the engine passes the leak down test, I'm looking at thermostats or pressure control valves. Wouldn't you say that it would be unlikely for those to malfunction simultaneously in a twin engine setup?

My dealer says that they will pump the ring free directly into each piston, let them soak overnight, then blow them out with compressed air and leak down test them again. Not exactly what Yamaha recommended, but I guess they know what they are doing? Looks like the whole thing will have to wait a while though, just slipped the tranny on my F350 while hauling a utility trailer with a tractor on it. Waiting to get that fixed before I can drag the stinkin boat in for repair.

I was very skeptical. Bought one bottle for our SF and never used it. Later got another bottle and used it on my cc and love it. Cleaned the deck first with Starbrite deck cleaner. Was sure to get into every nook and cranny and remove every stain. Then I applied the Woody Wax as directed. That stuff is like non-stick spray for a frying pan. No more deck scrubbing, yet it is not slick when properly applied! As hotspot said, " a little bit goes a long way." For deck applications, you don't use much.

I had heard and read so much on the topic that I decided to get it straight form the horses mouth. Called Yamaha customer service today and asked him about the problem, just as I described it in my initial post. The representative stated that it should not be allowed to happen and should be addressed immediately. He stated that it was most common in engines that were not broken in properly, but that it could be from: Rings not floating (possibley caused by improper breakin), stuck thermostats, over propping, open pressure control valve. He went on to say that the previously mentioned Leak Down test would probably indicate improperly seated rings due to carbon buildup. If this was the case, and he was almost certain it was, he recommended a "shock" treatment of ring free, followed by another Leak Down test. If the engines failed another LD test, the engine should be treated with Yamaha "engine cleaner." The representative was very casual about this and went on to say that he was relatively certain that this would take care of the problem. I pressed the issue that it should be covered under warranty because it was so prevalent. He said that they did not cover it because they could not monitor how an engine was broken in or operated. I asked him how to operate the engine. He said that the engine must be brought up to "operating temperature" at every use. I asked him if that was the notch on the gauge past the middle and he said that should do it if the thermostats were not stuck and the pressure control valve was functioning normally. I told him that my engines did not really heat up until I ran them a while over 5000 RPM, but that I preferred not to run it hard all the time. He said that I could run them at WOT for it's entire duty cycle without any ill effect, in fact, it would be better for them! I'm off for a Leak Down test in a day or two. Wish me luck!

fewer forum areas would be a good thing. I concur.

I purchased my boat used. The engine surveyor noted that the engine oil was an inch high on each dipstick. The engine surveyor, also a yamaha dealer, called it "making oil" and simply drained off the excess and blessed my purchase. I ran the issue by my local dealer and he said that it was caused by idling the boat excessively, which allowed fuel to enter the oil. When we checked the engine log, that seemed to fit. When I got the boat home, I had the dealer change the oil and filter. The oil level did not change for 70 hours. I changed the oil again this spring and only filled the oil to within 1/2" of full. After about 10 hours of use, there was no change in the oil level. I just had the whole fuel system overhauled for a fuel problem (see purging f250 fuel system). So, after the repairs I took a week off and rant the pizz out of the boat. After 225 gallons of fuel, the port engine reads 1" above full on the dipstick, the starboard reads 1 3/4" above full! I flounder fished three of the days, which was a lot of drifting and idling, but the rest of the time we were bumping along at 5000-5400 RPM. Is this just "making oil" and the stuff will evaporate, or a sign of a more serious problem?

Mysteriously, the RPMs returned! Not sure if the engines just needed to run or if the boat was a little stern heavy until I got all of my gear back onto the boat. I always remove everything that is not bolted down before taking the boat in for service. I think that returning all of my junk to the forward lockers eliminated the need for so much trim and may have contributed to the return of RPMs.

She seems to be all squared away. Resumed my vacation where I left off when this incident occurred and managed to run 225 gallons of fuel through the boat without incident. Re-fueled it at my trusty Citgo and sweetened it up with Valvtect. Thanks for asking!

The fuel filter manufacturer reimbursed me in full. I received the check this week.

I put a dockline around mine and tie it to a stern cleat. I leave enough slack in it so that if it slips out of the bracket while underway, it won't flip back and damage the boat. We're all programmed to clear the boat of lines before getting under way. That line hanging out of the hawse pipe has always caught my attention, and if it doesn't, I won't loose my ladder.

I don't know what model they are, but they have the black knob to adjust the angle of the riggers, a silver "ball" you bull to remove the rigger, and a black handle under the top that you pull down and swing out (which works very well). I ran the boat 300 miles in some unfavorable conditions with the riggers extended and the knobs stayed where I set them. They have spring loaded ball detents to keep things in place.

You are right, I have the telescoping Tacos and they are very flexible. So much so that I need to use the halyards to tie them to the stern cleats when I am running. However, for me the convenience of having the telescoping riggers outweighs the modest inconvenience of securing them before running.

Never mind, I found it: http://www.mrc.virginia.gov/Forms/New_Vess...uper_Permit.pdf Wouldn't you know that it is a mail in thing!

Tried to pickup the new VA Tilefish/Grouper permits for my boats yesterday. The agent said that the system would not recognize my vessel's documentation numbers. The error said that the vessel was not registered with VMRC. Just for grins, I gave them my skiff's VA registration number and the system accepted it. Is there some sort of VMRC vessel pre-registration for documented vessels? I called the VMRC main office today, but they close at 2:30 on Fridays. The local law enforcement office had no answers. Is there an online vessel registration I've missed?

Received a voicemail from the fuel service today. The caller stated that I could expect "reimbursement" from the fuel system filter manufacturer. No reference to when or how much. Its been a trying week, so I don't think I will call and ask until Monday.

Seafoam - nothing scientific, but if you are bored have a read: Spring 2005 took my Stihl weed whacker off the wall and fired it up. All it would do is bump and spudder and would not make full rpms. Emptied fuel, added clean fuel and re-started. Still no better. Let it sit a day or two and tried again, still no better. Took it to stihl dealer. Two weeks later dealer had not touched it, so I bitched. Dealer gave me a pint of Seafoam and sent me home. Added sea foam to the fuel, then started it and dribbled seafoam into the carb until it stalled out. Left the trimmer overnight. The next day it ran better than it had in two seasons, and still does. Did the same thing with my 175 black max this year. I had not run it in two years. I started it on the cuffs and it ran rough and on a seatrial it was sluggish and did not want to turn up. Tried two tankfuls of fresh fuel, but it did not improve. Treated two new tankfuls with seafoam and it cleared up and runs great. No I don't think Seafoam will preserve fuel, or perform miracles, but I do believe it will break up resin deposits in regular old carbs.

For me it depends on the tide and the ramp. If there is plenty of water and plenty of ramp, I prefer to sink the trailer and idle right up to the bow stop, or at least within a few feet of it, then winch the rest of the way. On a challenging ramp, or a low tide, I will "climb" the trailer with power, but I hate it. If time permits, I will just wait for the tide.

pretty work on the flounders. I'm hoping to take a poke at it next weekend.

Here is my service center's reply:This filter (screen) was cleaned and checked for restriction. There was no restriction and the screen was clean, so we reused this one. This filter is not really a filter element but a course screen to catch parts just incase the low pressure pump comes apart. The low pressure cup filter, before the low pressure pump is supposed to catch anything particulates that feeds the low pressure and high pressure pump, and the fuel water separator is your first line of defense before any of the engine filters see the fuel. There is a super-fine filter before the high pressure pump within the VST tank. The filters that were replaced were the high pressure pump filter, the low pressure filter element before the low pressure pump, and the fuel water separator, and the filters on the ends of the injectors. All other parts of the fuel system were cleaned and put back on the engine.

Thanks for the heads up. I just e-mailed an inquiry to the service center inquiring about that. What were the symptoms/headaches caused by the oversight?

I opted to stay home and take the children tubing on the river. Heard there was a good billfish bite offshore, but haven't heard about the inshore action. How did it work out?

I was headed that way too. Do you think the thunderstorms will clear out by then?

You can throw poppers or bucktails at them while they are holed up around bridge pilings (CBBT) or channel markers. If they ignore them, try live spot, eels, or cut menhaden. The few I've caught have been on cut menhaden while chumming. If you launch out of owl creek, little creek, or lynnhaven, follow the bay boats with towers (or step ladders). They are sight casting to them. Watch them, they have the secrets!

Did a course of oral Lamisil twice. Worked like a charm, expensive, and always comes back. Topicals work if you are very patient and vigilant. Two Dr. buddies of mine recommended removing the nails. They guarantee a beautiful new nail will grow back, they can also guarantee the fungus will not be far behind. I'm 50/50 with topicals now. One toe success, one failure. Still painting the stuff on and hoping for the best!

Furuno