[Help with sounder, please]

So I got the transducer and now I'm going to install it. Should I put it exactly where the other transducer is? What is the "pad" that is just aft of the existing ducer? Would that be a good place to mount the new one? How should I remove the old ducer?

Aslo - I have a temp sensor pictured here:

Do I still need the sensor after installing the B60?

Thanks,

[Worst ride while in a boat?]

Better to be onshore wishing you were on the ocean thab

Whats the worst boat ride you have been in?

1)When I was 17 and new to boating I was talked into a ride on an old Glastream speed boat. I thought I was going to die that day fellows.The driver was showing off in the inlet jumping waves and I was getting pounded bad.Then he stuffed a wave and swamped the boat.I swam back to the jetty in Fort Pierce and walked to a phone.

2)Saber Cat boat. I recently rode in one and thought the driver was going to kill me.I was scared more because I had back surgery 18 weeks ago and the thing was pounding.

Quoted changed for ocean:

Better to be on shore wishing you were on the ocean than be on the ocean wishing you were on shore.

[Skiff Transducer help]

I am not an expert, but my last two boats had transom mounted transducers. IMO yours looks to be mounted too low.

[REELBOATING T-SHIRTS!]

I'd buy one long sleeve and one short sleeve in large.

[What was your first boat?]

'76 17'Whaler. Regret selling that boat.

[states I've been to:]

opps, here it is.

[Help with sounder, please]

Ordered, Thanks.

[states I've been to:]

<a href="http://m.maploco.com/visited-states/mine.php?states=AL-AR-AZ-CA-CO-CT-DC-DE-FL-GA-HI-IA-ID-IL-IN-KS-KY-LA-MA-MD-ME-MI-MN-MO-MS-MT-NC-NE-NH-NJ-NM-NV-NY-OH-OK-OR-PA-RI-SC-SD-TN-TX-UT-VA-VT-WA-WI-WV-WY"><img src="http://map1.maploco.com/visited-states/ml/AL-AR-AZ-CA-CO-CT-DC-DE-FL-GA-HI-IA-ID-IL-IN-KS-KY-LA-MA-MD-ME-MI-MN-MO-MS-MT-NC-NE-NH-NJ-NM-NV-NY-OH-OK-OR-PA-RI-SC-SD-TN-TX-UT-VA-VT-WA-WI-WV-WY.png" border=0><br>Create Your Own Visited States Map</a>

Wasn't sure about NOrth Dakota so I left it out. Might be checking AK off the list in December.

How do you get the mat to show?

[Help with sounder, please]

Hey Jim - I just went to your site to purchase the B60, I had no idea there were so many to chose from. Do you happen to know which one will work with my Lowrance 111C? I know I need to 20 deg. I see one from Lowrance, but it is 12 deg.

[Navigating the Dania Cut Off Canal]

I have done the "loop"(starting on New River east to ICW South to DCC then West to New River) a bunch of times in my small boat, but it has been a few years since I've been back there. I think the OP it talking about the far west section that connects New River with the Cutoff Canal. I don't know for sure, but I'm pretty sure its plenty deep for boats in your size range. If coming from the Cutoff Canal north to New River you just need to be careful around the last bend. There are some homemade marker sticks that will keep you off the shallow rocks. Like I said it has been a while, but I remember the "sticks" being pretty easy to read. It's actually a pretty neat area that gets descent snook populations.

[Help with sounder, please]

The P79 has the same guts as the B60, but the hull does reduce your range.

That is the ducer in your pic.

What do you think I should be getting as far as depth coverage with the current setup and how much should it improve with the B60? I just want to make sure my expectations are not out of wack.

Also, on your B60 installation videos, what hull is that?

There is a surface clarity turn that up to help with the top of the screen. Then manually turn up sensitivity to help with the bottom. Also see what your ping speed is set at. I run mine wide open. But the transducer will probably help more than anything.

Thank you Kilo - I will adjust those settings next time I get the chance to get out on the water.

[Help with sounder, please]

Is your range set to automatic?

Thanks Brian, I have set it to both auto and manual for the depth I was at. Neither worked.

I would say for the surface clutter on top there is a setting i think it is surface clarity or something like that. Turn it up some should take care of most of that. Then you can go up with the sensitivity to help with the detail and seeing the bottom. And if that is the transducer the install job looks bad. Looks like they siliconed a transducer to the bottom and are shooting thru the hull. When installed right that cuts the sensitivity way down. I had that unit on my boat was a good unit i upgraded to a touch screen when it died a year or so ago.

I have messed with the sensitivity settings to no avail, but I don't really know what I'm doing. I'm thinking you are right about the transducer. Are you sure the item in the picture is the transducer? I don't know what else it could be.

Kilowatt is right about the ducer. I would suggest replacing it with a B60 thru-hull. that should help your performance significantly.

Thanks Jim, Can you tell if that is indeed the transducer? Any idea what model it might be, just out of curiosity?

Also I see you are recommending the B60, which I will likely take your advice(and get it from you), but is there a "shoot through" transducer that is worth installing. You know how some boaters get nervous with holes below the waterline.

[Help with sounder, please]

Hello all - The display is an Lowrance lcx-111hd. It seems to read pretty well in shallow water of 40ft or less, but there is a lot of clutter at the top:



As I get to deeper water I lose the bottom on the graph, but the digital data still reads a bottom, sorry this one is split screen:



Passing through 200-250 ft. I loose all bottom info.

This is a new boat to me. Is this the transducer?anyone know what kind?



On my old(sold) boat I had an 12 yr old Garmin 178C and I could read bottom up to 700-800 feet without problem. I'm assuming my new setup should perform at least that well.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to troubleshoot this problem?

Thanks,

[Navigating the Dania Cut Off Canal]

What size boat?

[BOE and others - which EPIRB or PLB will fit my needs?]

Thank you very much Jim.

[BOE and others - which EPIRB or PLB will fit my needs?]

Just upgraded to a little of a bigger boat so my offshore adventures will be more frequent. I'm thinking of getting an EPIRB for Christmas. The boat is a Sailfish 2360. I typically fish within 15 miles of shore but head out farther in the summer if fishing requires it.

Can you recommend a EPIRB model? Or would a PLB suffice? Obviously I want it to work, but am budget minded as well.

Thanks,

[Automatic Bilge Pump Wiring]

I assume you have a selective on/off/1/2/both battery switch. You can hook your positive of the pump to the always hot lug of the switch. Otherwise, connect the pump directly to one of the batteries.

The advantage of wiring from the switch is that you have two batteries working the pump in your absence!

It's an off/1/2/all switch. Should there be an always hot lug that gives power from both batteries? I haven't opened the switch yet. I'd wire it directly to the one of the batteries, but would like to be able to draw from both batteries if needed.

If this boat is stored on a trailer you don't need the auto function at all. If it is stored in the water a 750 GPM pump is way too small.

Yes, the boat is on a trailer, but feel that the automatic bilge is important for the occasional weekend/overnights that I'll leave the boat in the water when vacationing. This is just docking the boat in the evening at hotel marina and being back out in the morning. Maybe once or twice a year.

Thanks for the replies.

[Automatic Bilge Pump Wiring]

Hello all,

I've got a quick question about wiring a new bilge pump. The pump is a rule 750 auto which has the float switch built in. The manual wiring is straght forward and runs through a switch.

My question has to do with the automatic positive wire. The boat has two batteries that are run through a battery switch. My opinion is that the auto function of the pump should be hot wired in a manner so that reguardless of battery switch position the pump should pump if the float switch is triggered. It should be able to run off either battery as well. How should I wire the auto positive wire?

Thanks,

Chris.

[Help with a slippery patio deck]

After docking the boat we usually take a dip in the pool and then in through the back door. The problem is that the patio deck is porcelain tile which is very very slippery when wet. It's only a matter of time that the kids break bones or teeth due to this.

The tile looks really nice and I'd like to not change the appearance too much if possible. Is there any treatment or application to help get a grip? I was thinking sealer with sand. What do you all think?

Thanks in advance.

[floating vs. fixed docks?]

I would agree with most and say floating docks for most circumstances, however, given the variable that tide change should not be considered I might say the simplicity and cost of fixed dock may be better.

[Seems like the good THT]

Refreshing isn't it?

[What happened at the "other" site]

I hadn't visited THT much since the admin change. What was going on over there that mandated a site to compete with them. Time to work on the post count.

I'm looking forward to a site like the good ole tht.