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CG on modified 24 Albemarle


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Hey Folks,

I ve owned a 24 Albemarle 1983 since 1993.

Several years ago we I spent a lot of time and money in addng a bracket and a single 250 Suzukie

THe boat looks great but runs like SXXT.

Its the old issue of always chasing my tail attepting to keep the boat on plane.

4 bladed props and big trm tabs have not corrected this issue.

A couple of weeks ago on a very calm day I had 4 kids bow ridding on the front rail 465 #

The boat planned out and ran 30 mph at 4400 rpm with no issues. I was very happy

Does anyone know of a program online or an architect that I can give some detailed information to determine how to obtain the proper CG on the boat by moving or reconfiguring the fuel tank?

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A couple of weeks ago on a very calm day I had 4 kids bow ridding on the front rail 465 #

Please don't do that. I'm not the boat police, but that isn't safe, or legal :1925_:

Several years ago we I spent a lot of time and money in addng a bracket and a single 250 Suzukie

That was really when you needed the marine architect, he probably would have talked you out of it. It's going to take more than just moving the fuel tank to correct the trim.

how to obtain the proper CG on the boat by moving or reconfiguring the fuel tank?

Here is the problem. The boat was designed to perform best with the CG in a specific location. It was designed in the early 80's for 2 stroke engines mounted on the transom. 2 strokes are much lighter than 4 strokes. The entire structure of the boat including tanks, console and cabin are all designed to balance with the expected 2 stroke engine on the transom. If I remember right, that Zuke weighs about 480 pounds! So you've added a few pounds have moved 480 pounds about 3' farther aft of the designed CG, plus the weight of the bracket itself. So you will need to relocate something that weighs about 600 pounds the same distance forward from designed CG to compensate for it. That's a lot. If you use the weight of fuel, you should plan on the weight of a half tank. It's not a great ballast because it forever changes weight.

Edited by Cracker Larry
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Look at it like a kids see-saw or teeter totter. Pretend it is as long as your boat was as built. The engine it was built for probably weighed 375 pounds, so lets put that much weight on each end. Call one end bow and one stern. The board is balanced. That's how it was designed. Now replace the weight on the stern with one weighing 600 pounds. Engine plus bracket. Whop. To balance this, you would have to add 225 pounds to the opposite end. That's a good bit, and about the possible correction trim tabs might provide. Now, take a 3' long board (the bracket length) and nail it to the stern end, and move that 600 pounds to the end of the extended board. To balance that, you would have to move the same extra weight the same additional distance forward, or twice the weight 1/2 of the distance forward, or 4 times that weight 1/4 of the distance forward. It's that lever/ fulcrum thing.

If it was designed for a bracket, the console, main people area, tanks, batteries, everything would have all been further forward. It's not an easy problem to correct after the fact. Some sandbags in the extreme bow maybe, but then you are just hauling extra weight and burning more fuel. Better sandbags up there than kids though :1121_wink:

Edited by Cracker Larry
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THanks Larry

Yes I wholy agree on the kids bow ridding and wont allow that again

The boat had an I/O and 350 which weihed 850# the suzukie weighs 560 on a 30" bracket

I have moved the batteries and forward into the cabin area.

I could sand bag it but would prefer not to add the additional weight.

I will work on the sea saw math

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Another option is to install larger Trim Tabs if you have the room for them. I have worked with dozens of owners who have installed brackets and the additional lift of the larger Trim Tabs does an excellent job of helping shift the center of balance forward when the boat is moving.

Tom McGow

Bennett Marine

Edited by Tabman
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