Volvo Penta GS gauge problem, died and wont turn over ... problem started today

[nickfishbait]

Boat is a 1989 Chris Craft 254 Sea Hawk.

Engine is a 2004 Volvo Penta 5.7 GS with a DuoProp outdrive.

A little history -

The gauges (new, aftermarket, previous owner install) were acting a little weird the last time I took her out.

The temp, oil, voltage gauges do not give a steady read ("jumpy") when the boat is under way but gives what seems to be a steady reading when at rest.

When a high draw utility is used like the engine tilt or trim tabs, the voltage, temp and oil gauges "jump" for the time the high draw is occuring. Then back to normal.

Not sure if this has anything to do with the next issue but I need to correct the gauge problem as well.

Today's problem happened after running about 10 miles from the dock. The boat ran great, so it seemed. Then without warning, a backfire sound came from the engine and she stuttered, then died.

Immediately we thought she overheated but we immediately opened the engine hatch and noticed the risers, valve covers, etc were cool to the touch.

When I tried to start it, I don't hear the starting warning buzzer when the ignition key is turned and nothing else is heard at the engine.

All other accessories are working (lights, vhf, gps, etc..). Tried jiggling the controls thinking the shift button might of been an issue, nothing.

The main breakers on the engine didnt pop either. Engine oil is fine as well. The boat has less than 10 hours on her for this season and the engine has less than 75 hours total (not that that mean much at all).

Tow Boat to the rescue.

Any help is appreciated to give me a heads up to try to correct the issue myself. If not its off to hire a mechanic and dump more money into the hole in the water.

Thanks!

Nick

[DJWILLIAMS]

Sorry, but I do not know anything about your boat/motor, but hopefully somebody will in the near fututure, so I am bumping your thread back to the top, so that somebody who may know will possibly help you.

DJW

[AndyG]

you may have a loose wire somewhere. That is why you see the gauges jump while running (and hitting bumps). If it is all the gauges that do this it is most likely one of the +12vdc wires that dasiychains and feeds the dash circuit. Considering the age of the boat, there is a chance that there is some corrosion in the wiring. You will need to inspect all terminations and correct whatever is questionable.

[jigger]

Check all your connections for tightness and corrosion. Also check the connections on your starter and ground cable on the engine block.

[takfiv]

also have VP outdrive (with a 4 cyl Chevy on a 18' Regal) and keep it on a sling on the intercoastal.

been having "battery" issues with hard to start, jumping oil pressure gauges, etc.

finally the exhaust blower motor blew 5 amp fuses so found the 3rd (ground) wire disconnected (corroded) and also the kill switch wire was about to go.

wired 'em back up and now the sucker works.

i know this doesn't sound related (how can a blower motor have anything to do with the ignition circuit) but i'm agreeing with the others on checking all your wiring.

[nickfishbait]

Ahhhh .. you know what, i tried the blower and it didnt work as well. As well as some courtesy lights.

I definitely need to either re-wire the entire boat or the main runs when I have the time.

I'm hearing that the jumpy gauges can be caused by a bad alternator ... mainly the regulator.

Can that be a contributing factor?

Where can I get a new alternator for this motor? Are rebuilts acceptable?

Thanks!

Nick

[jigger]

also have VP outdrive (with a 4 cyl Chevy on a 18' Regal) and keep it on a sling on the intercoastal.

been having "battery" issues with hard to start, jumping oil pressure gauges, etc.

finally the exhaust blower motor blew 5 amp fuses so found the 3rd (ground) wire disconnected (corroded) and also the kill switch wire was about to go.

wired 'em back up and now the sucker works.

i know this doesn't sound related (how can a blower motor have anything to do with the ignition circuit) but i'm agreeing with the others on checking all your wiring.

You can take your altenator off and have it rebuilt. Which will save you a lot of $$.

[denny-o]

The first thing is to go through the wiring - and especially the ground wires -... This sounds suspiciously like a bad ground wire very close to the batteries... +DC wires tend to branch off as they are run for ward from the engine/batteries and not go directly daisy chain fashion... Ground/return tends to be a single buss for much of the equipment... One bad connection near the battery can kill the circuits for the entire boat... Look first near the battery and the heavy gauge cables coming off them to the console.. Then look inside the console... 90% odds you will find the open circuit in one of the two spots...

denny-o

[yottyboy]

Classic symptoms of a bad alternator. It was not putting out enough to charge batteries. Engine ran off battery until that went flat leaving you DIW. New alternator should be about 200 clams.

[nickfishbait]

Thanks All!

The main harness did in fact come apart - the main harness in the rear of the engine actually fell out and behind the motor - never saw it!! Engine starts and runs as it did before, great!

Gauges are working fine now as well. My guess is if the harness was that loose, none of the connections were solid so the gauges could never get a good reading.

Still working on a re-wire job thru the winter tho

Thanks!

Nick