Troutman561

The NMEA link to m Raymarine E120 reads the right information but the fuel burn info going to the digital engine gauge is off by about 15-20%. Oh yea, this is with twin DF300's.

I dont think it is filters as I have changed both twice since it began... Anyhow, I have an update from today. My friend Josh and I changed out the fuel primer bulb and the clip that goes to the engine from the fuel line and that fixed a long standing low speed stalling problem. We also pulled the fuel pump apart and everything looked to be in good shape including the diaphragm. Unfortunately the WOT problem still exists and pumping the bulb still temporarily solves the problem. Any new ideas? Could the fuel pump still be a problem eventhough it visually checks out?

Ok, This problem had been developing recently and only occurs at WOT. As you can see in the video, I run the engine WOT and it does fine for about 25 seconds and then starts cutting in and out. If I pump the ball every 10 or so seconds, it will not do it but that is annoying to do. It also stops when I back down to 3/4 throttle. I ran the engine on a remote tank eliminating the possibility of a air leak forward of the racor. My next move is replacing the primer ball, hose, and attachment to the engine. I am hoping the problem is not the engine or worse case, the carbs. I hope someone can get me pointed in the right direction and maybe help me troubleshoot this issue..

A guy in my school just bought a boat with 2 of these fuel sucking beasts on them and I am trying to find some stuff out about them so I can help him out as much as possible.. First off, how reliable are they? Are these the same block as the 225 EFI? Did this year of engine have any problems/ recalls? Fuel economy wise, these are going to be lucky to get 1mpg I would assume, if someone has more specific #'s by all means let me know.. I think he bought this on a whim without fully realizing the costs that will be involved in a boat with this power and of this age, but I want to try and make this as painless as possible for him.. Also, what exactly is the Black Hawk designation? Is it just a counter rotating pair of Blackmax engines, or different? Thanks in advance..

I agree.. Did you ever try to Merc Bravo I or Rev 4? I know myself and many others have found great performance with a Bravo I on single and twin set ups.. I had the same problem with blowout in rough seas with the Suzuki props and switched to the Bravo's and it is perfect now.. But yes, optimally you want between 6000-6200 rpms at WOT..

I hope it is a 4 cyl.. Their 200 6 cyl is to heavy for most applications...

Good to know... I was told to use 5200 and even asked about 4200... I have both but ill check into another type.. Any suggestions?

I plan on raising the engine(yami F40) on my 16ft Sundance skiff.. I was wondering if there is more to it than pulling the bolts, cleaning the old 5200 off, adding new 5200, and re-installing... Do I need to 5200 around the engine mounting bracket? Another thing. I can go 2 holes higher and if the position I switch it to is wrong, I would like to make it as easy as possible to move it again. While in the testing stages can I get away with not re-sealing the holes(hull is all fiberglass, no core) or can that cause problems and I need to suck it up and reseal each time? Any other tips or tricks anyone has would be appreciated...

It shouldn't be to much but it is really easy to do yourself... A google search would yield a how to with pics.. There was also a post with pictures pretty recently on THT about a DF225(I think, maybe 200 or 250.. Same thing either way). Found it.. http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/...ur-service.html

As the title says... I doubt they are but just want to make 100% sure before I commit the money to the wiring.. Since I do need one, anyone have an old Yami tach or any brand for the matter that is compatible with this engine(2006).. If not, a good place to get one cheap?

I am not a parents, but I recall a time when I was in my aunt's car and my cousin(brother and sister) were fighting. The brother was the one causing the problem, so he had to get out and walk home while we followed him in the car.. His lesson was learned while still being safe from the rapists that live on every street corner.

The issue with reading depth at that speed is going to be more of a transducer issue than a FF unit issue. In most cases, a transom mounted transducer wont be able to read at speed.. Which I am assuming you have?

Looking good man.. I remember when it first got stolen and followed that post.. Good to see the progress that is being made, Keep up the good work! I may have missed it or read it and forgot.. Are you going to throw 250's back on or go with the 300's?