Albiemanmike

Also of mention is the fact that ethanol does nothing positive for the emissions of our vehicles and actually reduces efficiency as ethanol produces less energy per gallon than gasoline. What a crock of ****.

I have used the Stingray on 2 different boats since 1996 and never had a failure that wasn't caused by me backing into something with it..... I have never had one crack, break, fall off etc. they are really simple to install and i only wish that they had the no drill option when I got mine many moons ago. By the way it has made a noticable difference on both boats i have had it on. Does not replace trim tabs but is useful if you want to lower the bow a little without draining the bank account.

The thing that will really send you into orbit is the fact that adding ethanol to gasoline actually does nothing at all in regards to cleaner burning gasoline it actually lowers mileage numbers. This is all a ruse to keep the ethanol producing companies in the mid-west driving Mercedes and the farmers happy to have someone to sell their corn based ethanol to. Corn based ethanol is very low in energy production when compared to sugar beets and other vegetables used for distilling ethanol. I have a paper put out by the Audubon or Sierra Clubs that goes into detail about this little secret. We have had the E10 here in the northeast for a couple of years now and it has wreaked havoc with the carbed engines and some injected ones as well. Thankfully my Honda doesn't care what I feed her as long as I feed her. I change the fuel/water seperator every spring and add some of that Startron stuff every now and then and I have not had any issues.

I had a Lund 16 with 15 hp. Honda that was a dog. We swapped it out for a 30 hp. Honda and it cruise at about 22-23 mph. I wanted the 50 but my old man went and got talked into a 30.............

I have used both Champion and Eastern and they are both good. When one doesn't have the does so it is usually just a availability issue not price.

I have followed your thread on the other site as well. Plenty of folks have given you solid advice. If you are serious about the depths you are talking about don't skimp on the unit and transducer. If you go with the FCV 620 and a P66 you will be very disappointed. I had a P66 and it wasn't very good at anything and I bought it to replace the one that came with my Lowrance unit. I am now installing a Furuno Navnet VX2 System with an Airmar M260 1Kw. transducer and it will blow the doors off of anything I have had previously. I don't fish nearly as deep as you most of the time but I am deadly serious when it comes to my electronics and after wasting money over the years trying to save a few bucks I have learned the hard way that you need to spend the money to get the performance PERIOD! So please save yourself a lot of hassle and money and buy the FCV 585 and M260/B164/SS264W transducer and hold on to your pants cause it will blow them off.

What is WOT on those motors??? I would stick my neck out and say there is something else very wrong with your setup as going to 15.5 X 17 isn't enough to get you into the high 5,000's which has got to be where those motors need to be? I am not a prop expert so take it all with a grain of salt but I have done a fair amount of research on this for my own boat.

Wow Consumers Reports has nothing on you guys!!! That is absolutely awesome to be able to buy something with the express purpose of torture testing I wish I could afford that kind of flexibility. But you have made up my mind for me as to what charger to buy thank you very much.

Been running Marathons for 2 seasons now without issue. I am ###### about maintenance and the bearings and tire pressures get inspected before each trip. Air pressures always adjusted prior to leaving while tires are bone cold as the temperature in the tires will rise significantly while trailering so you have to check and adjust while they are cold! On my trailer the max inflation pressure is 50 psi. if you check the tires when they are warm and they read 50 psi. then they are under inflated and if you adjust pressures at that point you won't get the right value when the tires cool.

Thanks Seashot I was wondering why it would be mounted in line with the upper station operator.

Mid-April to Mid-May depending on how much work needs to be done to the boat to get her fresh for the new season.

Hope this forum becomes more active with the approaching season!!!

Milford here and working on the boat so I can get her back in the saddle for 2009!

This is my 2000 Triton Seaflight 20 CC. She isn't very big but really handles well in the NE slop we usually get around CT, RI, MA. She is currently in the process of getting some new electronics. She will be sporting a Navnet VX2 1824C/NT system here in the next few days if the rain will ever stop. I have a custom radome mount that attaches to the top of the grabrail and will be braced on either side of the rail and to the front of the console. Figuring out where to mount the monsterous display unit is my big issue right now. Leaning towards fush mounting in the guage area and relocating the guages elsewhere on the dash as I only need 3 of the 4 guages anyway. The other PIA is installing the M260 transducer which I have room for after relocating the 2 bilge pumps. Should be an awesome setup for my little tuna killer. She is a proven tuna catcher

Is it my eyes or is that radar dome just in front of the upper helm station in line with the operator???? If so isn't that a bit dangerous???